Flat panel doors (panel construction techniques)

[Nick Lazz]

I have built flat panel cabinet doors using 1/4" plywood but have not always been satisfied with the results.
I have read members using 1/2" material and then rabitting or back cutting the edges to fit inside the rails and stiles, but not in much detail. (I've searched)

I'll take any of your tips you have to offer. If you are back cutting are you using a bit in the router table? Which bit?
Are there any other methods you use in these situations?

I'm starting a project and just stumbled on to the 1/2" material idea and am weighing my options. Just curious what has worked for you, so as not to re-invent the wheel....

Thanks for your help.

Nick

[Thom Porterfield]

I've done it on the table saw (rabbeting the panel, cutting the grooves). I don't recommend that, however, because it's not the safest approach. But I didn't have a router then. I think were I to do it today, I'd set up the router table to cut rabbets on the panel and grooves in the stiles and rails.

Or you could, of course, do it the luddite way, by hand. :D

[Joe Chritz]

#8679 MLCS undercutter bit. They have a shaper version if you use cutters.

I do all my flat panels this way (making 28 right now). I don't use plywood since I don't like the visible plies but for paint projects I use 3/8" MDF. For stain projects I use solid wood panels as close to 3/8" as I can get them from resawing 4/4 stock.

The reason I don't use 1/2" is that it often sticks out proud of the back of the frame depending on where the slot is in the stiles.

It makes for a more substantial door in weight and feel. You could cut a standard rabbit and make it very tight and you likely wouldn't see any plies. This would allow you to glue the panel in place on stain projects too.

Joe

[Nick Lazz]

Thanks Thom and Joe,

Joe, when using that bit what is the rabit reveal on the back side, 1/4"? Also are you using spaceballs or some other means for centering? Your feedback was exactly what I was looking for, thanks a lot.


Nick

[Thom Porterfield]

I assume you plan on floating the panel in the frame. If it were me, I'd allow at least 1/8" clearance all around, both in the groove and in the rabbet. Plywood doesn't expand/contract as much as does solid wood, but the wood frame might. I'm thinking of the panel in the frame much as you'd float a drawer bottom.

I've never used spaceballs. I just let the panel hang out in the groove. But because it can shift with varying humidity, I'd finish the panel before installing it into the frame. Otherwise you'll wind up with your slip showing. :D

[Joe Chritz]

Spaceballs for solid wood. MDF or plywood glued in place.

The reveal visible when assembled with solid wood (spaceballs and 1/8" space all around) is right on 3/8".

All that bit does is leave a radius instead of a square shoulder. A rabbit bit would do the same thing just leaving a square shoulder.

edit: You could also change bearings to modify the reveal although I have never bothered.

Joe

[Nick Lazz]

Thanks a lot guys, I really appreciate it!