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Stew Hagerty
06-15-2010, 1:43 PM
I am putting my new Vega Fence on and since I got the 50" version I have a big side table. As many people do, I am planning on using it for my router table.

Being the relative newbie that I am, I thought I would ask for recommendations as to which Router Lift to use. I am a big fan of the Woodpecker brand in general, but I've never looked into router lifts before so I don't want to just go spend $300 just to find out there might be a better choice.

David Winer
06-15-2010, 8:48 PM
I am putting my new Vega Fence on and since I got the 50" version I have a big side table. As many people do, I am planning on using it for my router table.

Being the relative newbie that I am, I thought I would ask for recommendations as to which Router Lift to use. I am a big fan of the Woodpecker brand in general, but I've never looked into router lifts before so I don't want to just go spend $300 just to find out there might be a better choice.
I went with a Woodpecker router table. A salesman assured me that a certain model of the Porter Cable routers included the capability of being lifted with a special included tool, no need for a special lift. That advice turned out to be true, but I don't know if the Woodpecker lift might offer some other advantages.

Steve Bracken
06-15-2010, 9:03 PM
I went with a Woodpecker router table. A salesman assured me that a certain model of the Porter Cable routers included the capability of being lifted with a special included tool, no need for a special lift. That advice turned out to be true, but I don't know if the Woodpecker lift might offer some other advantages.

Can you remember which router?

Will Overton
06-15-2010, 9:16 PM
I use the PRL-V2 with a Milwaukee 5626 mounted in it. Prior to this I used a Milwaukee 5625 that did have above table adjustment.

The advantage the lift gives you is the ability to quickly raise the router for above table bit changes, as well as a very fine height adjustment built into the plate.

Dave MacArthur
06-16-2010, 12:33 AM
Why get the lift? Buy the 3hp Triton router instead. It can be bolted directly to the table resulting in stronger and smoother table, and it has it's own lift ability built in. It has beat out every other router including the milwaukee and big PC for router-table use in the FWW tools review 2009 test, both for best overall and best value. You can raise it's bit up above the table for changing with no lift.

I have a router table in my table saw wing using a Rousseau plate on a DW620, and I've got another dedicated router table with the Rockler lift. Both have worked fine for me, but I'm convinced after reading many threads and reviews that skipping all the inserts, plates, lifts, etc. and going with the Triton is the way to go.

Jerome Hanby
06-16-2010, 9:03 AM
Why get the lift? Buy the 3hp Triton router instead. It can be bolted directly to the table resulting in stronger and smoother table, and it has it's own lift ability built in. It has beat out every other router including the milwaukee and big PC for router-table use in the FWW tools review 2009 test, both for best overall and best value. You can raise it's bit up above the table for changing with no lift.


I can't speak about the Triton, but I have a unit with similar capabilities from Freud and it works great. I added a speed driver and hex bit from HF and I can crank it up and down fast...

glenn bradley
06-16-2010, 9:17 AM
If you go with a lift, you already have the answer I would give you. I've been running the Woodpecker PRL for years. Smile every time I use it. The lifetime guarantee doesn't hurt my sleep any either.

My dad runs the small Triton and it is very functional. I understand the larger Triton now has those above-the-table features as well (its about time). Its not a lift but, it is very serviceable.

David Winer
06-16-2010, 9:58 AM
Can you remember which router?
I was hoping you wouldn't ask that question. I had to look it up in a pile of receipts that I first had to find in a pile of...

It is the Porter Cable Model 895 PK 2 1/4 HP Multi-Base Router Kit with Router Table Height Adjuster. I paid $270 a little over a year ago.

Stew Hagerty
06-16-2010, 11:25 AM
Why get the lift? Buy the 3hp Triton router instead. It can be bolted directly to the table resulting in stronger and smoother table, and it has it's own lift ability built in.

I hadn't thought of that. I have a Craftsman Professional and I checked and it has an adjuster screw in the base so it can be used like that too. Well that saves me $300. Thanks!

Stew Hagerty
06-16-2010, 11:34 AM
OK, I have my lift solution, now what about dust collection?

I would be adding a sacrificial fence to the back side of my saw fence for use with the router, but how should I hook up dust collection? Since the fence will move, cutting a hole for downdraft collection won't work. What do you guys do?

Van Huskey
06-16-2010, 11:55 AM
I hadn't thought of that. I have a Craftsman Professional and I checked and it has an adjuster screw in the base so it can be used like that too. Well that saves me $300. Thanks!


I think the key is to understand that a router alone does have compromises in ease of use, repeatability and accuracy. The Triton and the Freud routers have been better designed for "flipped" service than any other routers, the Triton is the better of the two. All the other routers are compromised in some way when flipped, some more than others.

Although, flipped plunge routers can be completely serviceable don't dismiss the benefits of a good router lift like the Woodpecker PRL V 1 and 2 (I prefer the V2) and others. If you ever use a good lift such as the PRL with a good motor like the PC 7518 or Milwaukee 5625 chances are you will not want to go back. These options do require a significant investment though, lift and motor are going to be right at $600 no matter how you slice it but in my mind well worth the money for one of the most versatile tools in a shop.

Will Overton
06-16-2010, 12:31 PM
The Triton and the Freud routers have been better designed for "flipped" service than any other routers,

Is this your opinion or is there some factual data? I ask this because the router in my lift was sold in a configuration specifically for use in a router table.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/Bill_de/router-1.jpg

Van Huskey
06-16-2010, 12:50 PM
Is this your opinion or is there some factual data? I ask this because the router in my lift was sold in a configuration specifically for use in a router table.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd75/Bill_de/router-1.jpg


I think you misunderstood me. There is nothing about the actual motor (bearing etc) that makes any router better or worse when mounted upside down that I am aware of. I think this is what you thought I meant. The 5625 you show is what I consider and listed as one of the best motors for a lift and although I prefer a 7518 the Jessem version of the 5625 is nicer (and more expensive) since it allows ease of speed change.

If you did not misunderstand me then there are quite a few fact based features that make the Triton and Freud routers superior used in a table sans lift. I can elaborate if you or anyone else wants these reasons.

PS If anyone wants the nifty Milwaukee motor/ remote variable speed setup Will linked to you might wanna grab one I think Jessem is discontinuing them. $499

Will Overton
06-16-2010, 1:03 PM
Van,

Yes, I misunderstood your point. I thought you were referring to the motor either not being sealed as well or some other problem with inverting them.

I bought this from Jessem for $380 + $20 shipping.

Stew Hagerty
06-16-2010, 2:28 PM
What about dust collection?

I would be adding a sacrificial fence to the back side of my saw fence for use with the router, but how should I hook up dust collection? Since the fence will move, cutting a hole for downdraft collection won't work. What do you guys do?

Van Huskey
06-16-2010, 2:36 PM
What about dust collection?

I would be adding a sacrificial fence to the back side of my saw fence for use with the router, but how should I hook up dust collection? Since the fence will move, cutting a hole for downdraft collection won't work. What do you guys do?


Normally it is two pronged, a box around the router with connection the the DC then a hose that comes over the top connected to the fence to collect the chips from the area where the router fence splits. Some router fences are hollow on one side so the hose can be connected to the end of the fence.

Jason Varner AF
06-17-2010, 5:58 PM
A shop build lift is always an option. When I get the time, this is what I plan to do.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/projects/archive/2009/04/21/the-aw-shop-made-router-lift.aspx

Gene Howe
06-17-2010, 6:04 PM
I can't speak about the Triton, but I have a unit with similar capabilities from Freud and it works great. I added a speed driver and hex bit from HF and I can crank it up and down fast...

Jerome,
Please tell me more about the "Speed Driver". I've been looking for a small unit to accomplish the same task.

Thanks,
Gene

Van Huskey
06-17-2010, 7:19 PM
Jerome,
Please tell me more about the "Speed Driver". I've been looking for a small unit to accomplish the same task.

Thanks,
Gene


A speed driver is this: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=2898&group_ID=350&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

You can get cheap ones at HF which are perfect for this application

Gene Howe
06-17-2010, 7:23 PM
Thanks Van!