How do I Dry a Walnut Burl?

[Fred Krueger]

I hesitate to ask a novice question with all the experts here, but here goes. Normally I rough out bowls, paint the end grain with Anchorseal, and let them sit in a paper bag for six months.

I just roughed out my first burl (oak) and when I went to paint the end grain, I realized it was all end grain! :(

What now?

[Mike Minto]

I'd say anchorseal the whole thing (at least where it will be turned away); perhaps lightly in some spots, heavier where it looks needed. It will still dry. just slowly!

[John Keeton]

Fred, I am a little confused - walnut or oak? Probably doesn't make a lot of difference, though I would imagine the oak might be a little more prone to crack and I would probably be more diligent with the sealer on oak.

[David E Keller]

Rough and seal would work, but it may take a while to dry. You could also use the DNA method I'm sure.

Your other option is to finish turn it and accept whatever shape it decides to be. I believe Ellsworth and others use the warping for added effect for many of their hollow forms. I'm impatient enough that I'd like choose the last option.

[William Bachtel]

Most all burls dry slowly, on their own. Oak is a slow one to dry, if it is thick, it take may never dry all the way. I had a Catalpa burl that dryed in a few weeks, I had a Walnut Burl, that took forever, and then I turned it, and it moved around, oh well. I like turning some burls green, and take what you get. You can ruff turn it, and seal it and that will shorten the time it takes to dry. Sometimes if it is plate or platter stock, I will use the micowave, and don't hurry that job either. Did that help?