Next hand tool?

[John Adam]

Guys,

I won a bet with my wife (Stanley cup - thanks Hawks!)...Now I have $200 to spend on new tools!!!

I recently bought an old Bailey #5 and Block plane from Sandy's tools - really liking the results.

Given how cheap they were, I'd like to buy a few more...

So if I wanted to work the wood from rough to final by hand, what other planes would you recommend?

Also, would you think it's worth holding back a bit on the planes so I can buy some of the Hock or Pinnacle blades and retrofit?

If there's any money left, I wouldn't mind getting a good dovetail saw as well.

Thanks!

J

[Don Dorn]

There is going to be lots of opinions here, but I recommend getting a jointer in a #7 or #8 and a smoother - a #4 is a good choice and plenty to choose from. That's all you need for Bench planes unless you get a good rabbet plane (I had no idea how much I would use mine when I got it). Beyond that, you need a good block plane. While others may differ, I think when you have those four , (4,5&7 & block) there isn't anything you can't get done.

My opinion is to get good planes, then worry about the blades. I don't know anyone that has gotten the Pinnacle set, but I bought Hocks with the chip breaker for two of mine (a 5 and 6) and absolutely love them.

Other tools - wide open question, but after the planes, I'd spend the money and buy a good set of chisels so you don't have to buy them again.

[Tom Henderson2]

Are you set up for sharpening? Sharpening is *THE* gateway skill for hand tools.

Virtually every hand tool will need sharpening -- so in some ways the sharpening stuff is the most-used of all hand tools.

The Norton 1000/8000 combo stone, a side-clamping jig, a DMT duosharp XC/C will eat up that $200 and put you in VERY good shape for years of plane sharpening.

My $0.02.

-TH

[gary Zimmel]

I'll second what Tom said.
Sharp tools are a must...

[Rick Erickson]

+2 what Tom said. Looks like you need to make another bet.

[Rick Rutten]

+3 for sharpening. I have a small variety of tools but none of them work well unless they are sharp.

Rick

[John Adam]

Thanks to tall.

I've had decent luck sharpening with the sandpaper up to 2,500 grit on a granite tile. Do you think I'll get that much better results with some good sharpening stones?

Otherwise, thanks for the info - jointer and smoother. I've got some Narex chisels I bought from LV. Once I learned how to sharpen them, they've performed well....

[Don Dorn]

Are you set up for sharpening? Sharpening is *THE* gateway skill for hand tools.

Virtually every hand tool will need sharpening -- so in some ways the sharpening stuff is the most-used of all hand tools.

The Norton 1000/8000 combo stone, a side-clamping jig, a DMT duosharp XC/C will eat up that $200 and put you in VERY good shape for years of plane sharpening.

My $0.02.

-TH

Yep - you're right. Should have thought of that as the first priority.

[John Coloccia]

Thanks to tall.

I've had decent luck sharpening with the sandpaper up to 2,500 grit on a granite tile. Do you think I'll get that much better results with some good sharpening stones?

Otherwise, thanks for the info - jointer and smoother. I've got some Narex chisels I bought from LV. Once I learned how to sharpen them, they've performed well....

I'm going to go against the grain here and say that if you're doing OK with sandpaper, stick with it for now. You'll want to move onto stones at some point because sandpaper is inconvenient and can get very expensive in the long run. You will certainly want to get a decent leather strop, though, and strop very frequently when using your tools. You'll find the edge will last SIGNIFICANTLY longer and will always be razor sharp.

What kind of woodworking do you do? It's really tough to beat a smoothing plane for leaving an incredible surface with very little work. Have you ever seen your reflection in a piece of wood? Want to? You need a smoother. HOWEVER, you can always sand or scrape and get a good surface, so if you really really want to go from rough to surfaced with hand tools, you really need a jointer.

I have power tools and could possibly do without my jointer, although I'd never want to. It's tough to replace a good smoothing plane.

[Jim Koepke]

+1 on all of the above.

Scary sharp and sand paper still gets used for the early stages of sharpening in my shop. The stones at 1000 and finer get the used the most. It is just to easy to do a quick touch up before a blade gets real dull and needs the whole treatment.

Also agree on a #4 and a #7 or #8 being a good investment in the hand plane fleet. At one time my feeling was that a #8 wouldn't be any better than a #7. For some things, the extra 1/2 inch of blade makes a real difference.

The #4 is a good size, but a #3 and a #4-1/2 do have their place when working smaller pieces, the #3. When working wider items, the #4-1/2.

The #4 can do it all if you want to keep the fleet small.

jim