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Dru Dron
06-12-2010, 11:18 AM
Hi All,

I'm about to make several cathedral style arched raised panel doors for a kitchen pantry and have become uncertain about the safety of using the Freud 2+2 ogee style raised panel bit (w/backcutter) to cut/raise the curved top edge of the panel.

My concern is that this particular bit does not use a ball bearing to guide the workpiece and control the depth of cut (looks like the wood will ride on the central shaft of the bit instead), so it would seem that when doing the freehand curved cut I would have to make the cut in a single, heavy pass. I am well aware that it is preferable to make the raised panel cuts in at least two passes, but I don't see a way of doing this freehand for the curved end of the panel using this bit. I plan on taking multiple passes when using my router table fence to mill the straight sides of the panels. That's a no brainer based on my experience with previous non-arched raised panels I've done.

Does anyone here know of a way to do this in multiple passes freehand on a router table? By the way, I'm using a 3.25hp Milwaukee router motor in a Jessem Mast-R-Lift Excel router table, and the stock is 3/4" cherry. The panels are approximately 14" wide (this would be the length of the freehand cut across the curved end of the panel) by about 30". The other thing I almost forgot to mention is that I have the option of using my Woodhaven Frame and Panel Master jig for securely holding the panel as I make the cut. I'm hoping that will at least help with the personal safety of the cut, if not necessarily the quality of the cut (but hopefully both).

Does anyone have any advice on this? Any suggestions how to make multiple passes freehand without the option of using a large, then smaller bearing like other brands of raised panel bits provide? Do you think making these curved end cuts in a single pass will be a major problem?

Thanks a lot!

Dru Dron
Guelph, Ontario, Canada

Gerry Grzadzinski
06-12-2010, 1:57 PM
Make a curved auxiliary fence to match the radius on the panel. Then just move the fence to vary the depth of cut.

Joe Chritz
06-12-2010, 4:37 PM
If you can't use bearings than Gerry's way is very simple and easy.

Joe

Dru Dron
06-12-2010, 10:22 PM
Hi guys,

I appreciate your responses about using an auxiliary fence, but I'm not sure that would work with a cathedral style panel. Would that not only be feasible for a simple arch of a single radius? The cathedral style I'm working with has multiple curves and radii which I believe would make the use of an auxiliary fence very difficult if not impossible. Am I mistaken in this regard? I can certainly see how an auxiliary fence could be used with a simple single curved panel end. Am I missing something simple here?

Thanks again!

Dru

Will Overton
06-12-2010, 10:46 PM
Found this in the comments section on the Rockler site.

The bit works great. However, if you are doing arched or cathedral panels, Freud's technical staff recommends doing the end cuts in a single pass using at least a 3 hp router (and hold on tight!). A less exciting way was to remove the backcutter until the cove cuts were completed by making 2 passes. Then do a full pass with the backcutter installed. It was very easy to handle the panel and my 2 hp router had no problems at all.


Maybe you should call Freud, first thing Monday.

Mike Goetzke
06-13-2010, 12:33 AM
I just bought this panel cutter too. Fortunately I'm using a single radius Roman pattern. You probably know but just in case the previous post means to lower the bit w/o the back cutter on the first passes. That is the method I have used for years on my non back cut panel bit.

Let is (me) know how the bit set cuts.


Mike