Ready to sharpen

[Lee Ludden]

This week I finally pulled the trigger on a good set of sharpening stones. After much research, I decided to go with the Shapton's. I figure I'll cry once over the cost, but then I shouldn't need to worry about anything for a long time (other than improving my proficiency).

I ended up getting a 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit stones, plus the Shapton Diamond lapping stone, Veritas Mk II honing guide, and a leather strop with the green stropping compound. I decided to be brave and give it a try on one of my good chisels that I've really been a bit afraid to mess with. I was able to get it sharp enough to trim end grain on a piece of walnut to glass smooth. I figure I will do a minimum of one plane blade or chisel a night after work until they are all done.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4689384151_88ef98885e.jpg

[john brenton]

Hey, I can't say I'm not jealous, and I guess you have the right idea. He who buys cheap buys twice...or thrice...or (what am I up to now?)

[Jeff Hamilton Jr.]

Nice purchase Lee, I'm sure you'll be pleased. I was vacillating between Shaptons and Naniwa Superstones. I got a great deal on the Naniwa, so went with them. I believe they are a tad bit softer than the Shaptons, but I too have been pleased with my purchase.

You're right. No matter what the brand of stone, nightly practice is the key to sharp ... :cool:

[George Clark]

Lee,

I have virtually the same sharpening setup and I like it better than any other system I have tried. I find the fact that the Shaptons only need to be spritzed and not soaked to be extremely convenient. I also like the Shapton sharpening pond to contain the mess, particularly when taking a class and working on someone else's bench.

Remember to check the position of the eccentric roller. It's done a "gotcha" on me more than once. I don't think you'll regret your choices.

George

[Jon Agnew]

This week I finally pulled the trigger on a good set of sharpening stones.

I'd say you did a little more than pull the trigger....more like pushed the big red button. :eek:

[Dave Beauchesne]

Plus 1 on George's comment - I splurged and got a 16,000 as well - in hindight, it was probably not necessary though.

I had a revelation this week - am in a plane making class, and the sharpening method is to hollow gring the blade on a hand grinder with a white wheel, then use the two high spots as your reference points.

A few diagonal rubs on the 1,000, followed by a few more on the 8,000, remove the burr on the already polished back and viola! you can pop the hairs off your arm with surgeon like precision. No more jigs, back bevels, micro bevels etc.

The Shaptons and flattening plate are very nice though.

Dave Beauchsne

[Steve Dallas]

This week I finally pulled the trigger on a good set of sharpening stones. After much research, I decided to go with the Shapton's. I figure I'll cry once over the cost, but then I shouldn't need to worry about anything for a long time (other than improving my proficiency).

I ended up getting a 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit stones, plus the Shapton Diamond lapping stone, Veritas Mk II honing guide, and a leather strop with the green stropping compound. I decided to be brave and give it a try on one of my good chisels that I've really been a bit afraid to mess with. I was able to get it sharp enough to trim end grain on a piece of walnut to glass smooth. I figure I will do a minimum of one plane blade or chisel a night after work until they are all done.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4068/4689384151_88ef98885e.jpg

One a night? Are you joking? How about one every ten to fifteen minutes - max......you have a jig, go for it. Once the unit is in the jig hammer the thing through the grits and move on for Pete's sake.

Lee, you could start on a Saturday morning around 8:00 and get every edge in your shop done easily before lunch and, guess what, have the rest of the weekend for actual woodworking! For some, that's a scary thought.

[Marco Cecala]

Looks like you did your research, I need to upgrade soon. My Norton's are getting thin. Where is the good price and service for Shaptons these days?

[Mike Fairleigh]

Lee, I've made the same investment, but included the pond as well and went with the heavy stone base. I found good pricing and service through Chef Knives to Go (I guess links aren't allowed here?).

Though I've recently bought a set of LN chisels, I also have a set of Blue Chips and decided to use those to start my sharpening apprenticeship. I took a similar approach - sharpen every night, pay attention to what works and what doesn't, learn to "read" the stones, etc. Along the way I've learned that doing all conditioning of new blades on sandpaper first is still the way to go (starting with coarser grits than I thought would be necessary); grinding a hollow, especially on wider blades, is a Godsend (I used the front roller of a belt sander and did it freehand :eek: ); and I've learned just how out of shape the muscles in my hands had become. Though I have a couple of different jigs including the LV Mk.III, I've so far resisted the temptation to use them, insisting on learning how to freehand everything. The jury's still out on whether that will continue, because I think the jig would have made this process much faster and certainly less fatiguing.

Last night I finished the last of the Blue Chips. They aren't perfect, and they'll serve as a baseline and point of comparison for improvement. However, I can compare the first of them with the last, and see real progress.

[lowell holmes]

Check Craftsman Studio's price.

[Dan Karachio]

Where were you months ago when I needed you! :-) I am one of those by thrice people on Sharpening. Worksharp (not needed and I don't like it), Norton Stones (okay, but yours are better and not much more $$$). Today I would do EXACTLY what you did and be happy for a long long time. Well, I think the diamond lapping plate is excessive in $, but otherwise, right on!

You are all set there. Have fun and watch your fingers. I have learned that I am more likely to injure myself with chisels than any of my power tools!

[Joel Goodman]

I had a revelation this week - am in a plane making class, and the sharpening method is to hollow gring the blade on a hand grinder with a white wheel, then use the two high spots as your reference points.

Dave Beauchsne

You wouldn't know what grit the wheel in the hand grinder was would you? I just got a hand grinder and it needs a new wheel.

[Lee Ludden]

I compared Craftsman Studio with SharpeningSupplies.com and ended up going with the latter. The stones were slightly cheaper at CS, but the flattening plate was significantly higher there.

I still have to flatten the backs of most of my chisels, and plan on using the sandpaper/glass method for that. I looked real hard at the Shapton pond and heavier holder. I might add those after I see how well I get along with the current setup.

[Dave Beauchesne]

I compared Craftsman Studio with SharpeningSupplies.com and ended up going with the latter. The stones were slightly cheaper at CS, but the flattening plate was significantly higher there.

I still have to flatten the backs of most of my chisels, and plan on using the sandpaper/glass method for that. I looked real hard at the Shapton pond and heavier holder. I might add those after I see how well I get along with the current setup.

Lee:

I hear you on one a night - I suspect you include flattening the backs, which, is the time consuming portion of the affair - once that is done, it is off to the races.

Like I said, tomorrow is the last day of a ( wooden ) plane making course ( Krenov style ) - we use Ron Hock's O1 blades and chipbreakers - of course, the flattening is the longest portion of the exercise.

At the school, they use 1000 grit stones to flatten the backs - I snuck in a tempered glass plate and some ' fine ' emery paper ( probably 180 grit ) and did the bulk of the work that way - it saves on the expensive Shaptons, and it expedites the process. Just remember that using paper on glass ' rides up ' in a 'wave ' in front of the leading edge, so you can round the back a bit, negating any gains, so, you have to be cognisant of that detail.

Like I said earlier, a hollow grind, coupled with a few swipes on the 1,000 then to the 8,000 = instant hair removal, and glassy wood finish.

Joel:

I believe the grit is 60 - the instructor said it doesn't load up as fast - also, be sure to dress it often to keep it flat / slightly crowned, not angled. I have an 80 grit on mine at home - works well. There is a Veritas tool rest with a thin slab of wood glued on the ' table ' for a base - just get the wheel going, and set the angle so it starts grinding in the centre of the bevel - ride it back and forth - I got the hang of it quickly - DO NOT go into the leading edge of the blade OR further than the back of the bevel - those are your reference points - throw away the clamping slide mechanism - not required and causes more harm than good - practice on a junk blade first to get the hang of it - if you are careful, you can do thin Stanley type plane blades, but, the thicker the better. Also, you don't have to run the wheel quickly - probably crank the handle once every 1.5 seconds or slower.

Good luck -

Dave Beauchesne

[Jake Rothermel]

Dave, I hear you on the sandpaper hollowing problem. I started rehabbing a set of what I like to call my "Whapping" chisels a little while ago and I figured I'd start with the worst part: Lapping the backs of all of them. Every single one had the exact same hollow and it was driving me crazy as to why.

Then I remembered David Charlesworth's two methods of sharpening/lapping by going back & forth along a chisel's length AND THEN turning it ninety degrees and going sideways along their length. Dead flat in minutes.

Lee, that looks like a great set-up. There was no way I had the cash set aside for a Shapton set-up like that. I'm no doubt going to be a twicer (or ::shudder:: a thricer) when I upgrade to an all Norton system. And allow me to give another +1 to the once-a-night approach. As I taught myself to sharpen (with EVERYONE on the interwebs' for help), it was really heartening to see the progress I was able to make not just across a set of chisels or blades but on one blade, too.

[Tony Shea]

Once you get used to your setup and proficient at honing by hand you will be able to easily bang out a few chisels or blades a night. I feel really strong about learning by hand as there is no replacement for learning the motion and technique involved to get blades sharp. If you happen to go somewhere with your blades and have no honing guide then you're at a loss if your edge is not where it needs to be. Congrats on the your setup as it will give you years of great service. If only I bought nice once instead of 3 different times I would have actaully save a little money.

[Roy Lindberry]

Dave, I hear you on the sandpaper hollowing problem. I started rehabbing a set of what I like to call my "Whapping" chisels a little while ago and I figured I'd start with the worst part: Lapping the backs of all of them. Every single one had the exact same hollow and it was driving me crazy as to why.

Then I remembered David Charlesworth's two methods of sharpening/lapping by going back & forth along a chisel's length AND THEN turning it ninety degrees and going sideways along their length. Dead flat in minutes.

Lee, that looks like a great set-up. There was no way I had the cash set aside for a Shapton set-up like that. I'm no doubt going to be a twicer (or ::shudder:: a thricer) when I upgrade to an all Norton system. And allow me to give another +1 to the once-a-night approach. As I taught myself to sharpen (with EVERYONE on the interwebs' for help), it was really heartening to see the progress I was able to make not just across a set of chisels or blades but on one blade, too.

Jake,

I like your signature. It is very close to what I told my mom when she was having her house built. She wanted everything done well, quickly, and inexpensively. I told her she could have any combination of 2, but its very difficult to find all three.

[Don Dorn]

I respectfully disagree. While I can do it by hand in the instance where I don't have an elipse jig (and Japanese chisels which are too short), the results are not completely repeatable in my opinion. You can end up with several little facets on the sharpening bevel. While I'm sure there are those of you who don't have that issue, I just don't want to spend any time rehoning the sharpening bevel to get a consistent angle in the name of doing it by hand when the jig prevents it.

It takes just a moment to drop the blade in the elipse jig and run it against the stop. The result of that is complete consistency time after time. Ten strokes or so on a 1000 stone to get the burr, about the same on the 8000 to polish and I remove the blade , wipe off the burr and I'm able to effortlessly slice through a piece of recipt paper. At that point, it's sharp enough for me.

It's amazing how many methods I read that work well for people. It is certainly a testiment as to how there are many ways to accomplish something.

[george wilson]

My old Craftsman bench grinder(with the flat front,1960's,has tool rests that have 2 parts. Like the two parts of your arm. The tool rests can be pulled out straight. I used to pull them out straight,tighten the screws,and rest the outermost edge of the rest on the ferrule of a carving tool or chisel. I could always quench the tool,and put it back exactly the same distance from the grinding wheel. It made perfect 1 piece bevels not only on flat chisels,but also on gouges. Did it beautifully.

For longer chisels,I clamped a C clamp on the chisel blade to rest against the tool rest.

If you have an old Craftsman grinder,look at your tool rests. Most of the ones now made have a 1 piece tool rest that is not nearly so versatile.

[Jake Rothermel]

Thanks, Roy. My old mentor and Tech Director from college used to say something along those lines. It's stuck with me. Personally, I think it applies to just about everything...

[Dave Anderson NH]

I'm laughing Jake. It is so true and has been around for years in many forms. The short version we use in my day job is: Quality, price, and delivery......pick two.