Bath Cabinet Part 2 : Construction Begins

[Mark Singer]

Today I went to Austin Hardwoods and found Shedua and Honduras Mahogany for the bath cabinet. I deliberated over all the great woods , but in the end I liked the Vertical grain and much of it was quilted also. I decided to make the shelves and the cainet top and bottom from the Mahogany and the Shedua for the coopered doors and the cabinet carcass, I made a quick mock up using a Kreg Jig to help visulize the curvature. The 6 degrree angle for the stave rips was too radical and I ended up with 3 degrees varying the width of the staves from 1 1/2 "(ends) to 3 1/2" (center) . this make a more dynamic curve and is far more interesting. It does require laying up the door first to accuratley establish the curvature. The staves are glued in pairs ...after 1 1/2 hours you can release the clamps and add one. I also glue up the cabinet top and bottom from 8/4 Hond. Mahog. The ECE planes got a lot of use. Each stave was cut on the tablesaw and handplaned. The Mahog. was also hand planed after the joiner run with the ECE Try plane monster...a bit hard to push ...there is a full 4' long shaving! Its a great plane. I used the 711 to carefully "spring" fit the staves , but only a touch. I am off to a good start...I have 4 hours in so far and making good progress. The critical work is still to come and I will need to slow down a bit. I also made a plywood scribe template of the wall cavity...it is curved badly and out of square...I will need to carefully fit the top and shelves to the cavity.

[Mark Singer]

More pics of the progress so far...

[Christopher Pine]

Wonderful choice of wood! Can't wait to see more!
Chris

[Jim Becker]

Yea...get that floor covered with chips and shavings!! :D :D :D

Nice start on a great project, Mark. Keep 'em coming! (pics)

[Mark Singer]

I worked another hour this evening and got the coopered doors completely layed up. I also layed up a panel of Shedua which will be the vertical sides of the cabinet.We all have our own special techniques for joining boards...apply a clamp...tap with a mallet a bit more clamp...perfect! Now the glue can dry overnight. Waiting for glue to dry can slow projects down. Since I new all the rough panel sizes , I could complete all glue up at more or less the same time. That way tomorrow I can start hand planning the doors and fitting the components. I have been thinking of one nice drawer within the cabinet. So the design is evolving as I am building it. It is still amazing to me that you leave the lumberyard with rough , beautiful material and within hours magic begins to happen as our ideas begin to manifest and our hands and follow our minds direction.

[Tyler Howell]

Always Like to see a master at work! Thanks


TJH

[Jim Becker]

Waiting for glue to dry can slow projects down.
That's what the Spinny Thing is for...to ease the pain of slow-drying glue! :D :p

[Jason Tuinstra]

Mark, thanks for the construction pictures. I'm really going to enjoy seeing how this comes together. Keep up the good work.

[John Miliunas]

Four hours?! :eek: Dooooooood...That would've taken me four DAYS! :rolleyes: Please, keep a step-by-step picture and text tutorial running for this one! This is just great! Truly, watching a master working his craft. :) :cool:

[Scott Coffelt]

Anxiously awaiting the final shot, but keep up with the step by step pictures if you can. I love watching a master at work.

[Mark Singer]

Well..it is going pretty well, overall. I made one mistake when I layed up the staves I flipped a couple for grain pattern and interest...big mistake! They look great , but I had to resort to some sanding on the concave face....I cheated. I kept reversing and trying to read the grain, but the curve in combiation with a very difficult grain was a bit much. I sharpened the iron and set it light...planed from both sides...It still tore out a bit. I did fine on the convex (exterior) side. I went from a Gents plane to the ECE smaller Jack..I won't get to finished till I cut and fit the parts together. When I got to the other panels...I just ran them through the drum sander.. You know the old and tired thing!;) .I will give them a final planed finish.with a smoother..that should be much easier than the doors. The door work was time consuming...I am at about 9 and a half hours at the moment. I will start cutting thing to fit...soon

[Mark Singer]

Here are some progress shots:

[Joe Mioux]

....that wood is beautiful.

[Mark Singer]

I cut the panels and finiehed the doweling. What you see in the pics is a dry assembly with the doors sandwitched in...but not hung. The rabbets for the back are cut. I will resaw Shedua for a interior back. I am afraid to use it for a structural back since wood movement will be terrible to this type of cabinet. The doweling needs to be precise...I always drill a couple of shallow holes and check the alignment, before I go for it. I cut the sides and the doors to the same length...when the doors are planned it should leave just enough gap. Now I need to layout for the Brusso knife hinges. I will overlay about 1/2 the carcass thickness. I leave the doors long and plane them to fit once they are swinging.A round 3:00 my back started sending me love notes;) Then we had a power outage I guess it can wait.

[Mark Stutz]

Mark,
This is absolutely terrific. am amazed at the speed and precision of your work. Thank you for taking the time to document the process. I'm especially interested in the installation of the knife hinges.
Thanks again.

Mark

[Gene Collison]

Mark,

Thanks for the lessons, you are truly amazing!!! Keep it coming.

Gene

[Mark Singer]

I trimmed the doors after scribing to the cabinet...a bit scary! After jointing the edges to a rough fit, I hand planned to a soft rounded edge on the outside. I set the doors in place and located the knife hinge placement. Always let the doors tell you where the hinges should go after all they have to hand there. The edge of the door should bisect the pivot point (pin). I morticed the hinges by hand..I was to lazy to make a jig to fit the curved doors. The hinges fit good. There is no adjustment and if you screw up...you start over! No Dutchmen please. After the doors were swinging I hand planned the to fit in place...it is the only way. Now I will scribe the top and bottom to the door layout leaving 3/8 for a scupted edge. Then the cabinet comes apart again and I work on the interior..drawer...and 2 shelves. and the resaw back.

[Jim Becker]

You're doing a beautiful job on this, Mark. Very instructive, too. Thanks!

[Karl Laustrup]

I am in awe, Mark. You seem to be progressing quite quickly, I'm sure quicker using hand tools than I could using power. I await the finished product with great anticipation. Those doors in the last picture are fabulous looking. I can only imagine how they will appear when finished.

Thanks for the tutorial.
Karl

[John Miliunas]

Mark, you're cooking with gas on that puppy! :) Super job and thanks for the ongoing tutuorial! :) :cool:

[Mark Singer]

Thank you.I appreciate your comments. After a bit of trouble (a long dowel!) I glued the cabinet this afternnon. The pics show shaping of the bandsawed curves using a spokeshave (Lee Valley) . You can see the facets of the blade on the close up. The door fitting is going well..It is hard to see the edges. Considering the coopering and non adjustable Brusso hinges, I am pleased.

Karl, I am not doing everything with handtools. It is kind of a mixed bag. I try to choose what tool will give me the best result. This wood is very challenging and I may end up sanding most of it. I would rather have a finely sanded finish than handplanning and blemishes from the irregular grain, I love the wood but I often think I would have been better of with something a little softer and less challenging. I was running my Tormek all day to keep my chisels and planes sharp. I used a lot of power tools...tablesaw,bandsaw, drill,sander, jointerand drum sander. I used a lot of handtools.planes, spokeshaves, chisels, handsaws,knives. Once the glue dries I can finish the interior.

[Chris Padilla]

Nice to see you making stuff or at least posting about what you are making!! It is amazing what a little curvature adds to a rather simple box! :)

[Alan Turner]

Mark,
I have some Shadua, by accident, but have not yet used it. Is it subject to a ton of tear out? Nice job, BTW>
Alan

[Todd Burch]

Stupid question...

What are you using high $$ wood for on the cabinet sides that will never been seen? A thin veneer on the inside would have accomplished the same goal.

On those pivot hinges, how far will the doors open once installed into the recess? With their curve, not quite 90°, I suspect. With only a 22" wide opening for the recess, I'm thinking you'll have about a 18"-19" wide opening, tops.

Todd

[Mark Singer]

Alan.
It is very hard and also difficult to hand plane or even macine plane. If it is Quilted Shedua...I would not even try planing it. I have some pieces of highly figuered "Quilted Shedua" I will be using on the interior....we will see how it goes.

Todd,
It is not a dumb question. The solid wood cost me $6.35/ bd ft..I have been buying there for 20 years...it lists for about $8.50. If I veneered the side panels I would make my own from hardwood by resawing. I could save 1 panel then. That amounts to 5 sq ft or $38...not a big deal. The commercial veneer would be more $ and require trim since I am shaping the panel edges. The hardwood is stable...I used it several times in the past. If I were to veneer it I would have to put a similar material on the other side for stability.
I think I will get about 90 degrees of opening since I am outside the wall cavity for the most part. I only deducted 1/4 " in width so my inside dimension is approx. 20" or a tad more. Thanks for the drawing it helped and is pretty much what I am using. I will veneer the shelves with resawn material and use a blind ledger in the core thickness. I will also resaw and bookmatch the back interior. I wanted it as a veneer to insure stability of having a plywood back...Finland Birch 1/4"

[Mark Singer]

Here are a few pics of the glue up. I proped the doors in place a bit tight since glue up...i expected this and mortised the hinged a tad deep for final planning. There ia a pic of the highly figured quilted Shedua. In some yard they seperate it and charge $12 to 15 a bd ft.! I will use that on the interior and the drawer..which I will dovetail.

[Jim Becker]

Wow. That's looking great, Mark. Congratulations on a project that really is coming together quickly and very much like the "plan"!!

[Keith Christopher]

Mark,


Awesome job the progress is rockin ! What are you using for a finish ? You've motivated me to try some coopering. :)

[Dan Mages]

That is some amazing work!!! I have many, many years of practice to even come close to that level of skill. What type of finish are you planning for the unit?

Dan

[Jerry Olexa]

Mark... Thanks for taking the time to show us the "how to" of your excellent project. AND, in my judgement, it is craftmanship at the highest level. Great work!! P.S. I lived in Corona Del Mar when I worked for Procter & Gamble in an earlier life.:)

[Mark Singer]

I really appreciate your comments. I am sure I am boring some of the very talented SMC members and there are truly very many of them. I think for many there it is helpful to document the process of building a challenging project. I am taking the time to stop and take pics and I am actually enjoying it. It hasn't relly slowed me down much and I am constantly thinking about little tricks I have learned that may be helpful. When I finish the project I may summarize some of these little tricks that I just do in the course of a project without really thinking much about it. This thread is good for me since I am thinking about little subtleties that help as you go along. I hope that it encourages many to try challenging projects...slowly trying something new and a bit difficult with each one. I have built several similar cabinets and experience and making mistakes (even on this one) are good in a way because you learn. Now I know to keep all the staves running the same. I have never made coopered door with such a difficult grained wood...now I know. The long dowel...we all know that I was just careless and should have measured each hole. You can't dry fit this style with 8 dowels per joint and the holes are tight...2" long dowels...you only get one shot! No its really not a Kreg Jig project...yes you can hide the screws on the outside...then you can use Blum hinges...and machine dovetails...it is not the same project anymore.
I had a bit of shop time this evening. I resawed the veneer for the back. I am sure everybody has a special set up they favor.. Mine is simple as shown in the pics. By the way the saw is running while I took the pictures...zero vibration...a great bandsaw! Joint and saw the board to width before resawing ...both edges should be smooth. The trick here is to get out the square and square the table to the blade. The Grip tight featherboards must not be in line with the blade. Center the blade on the board thickness (obvious) and go slow. The second pic is the flitches right off the saw are very consistently the same thickness. (third pic) and after drum sanding 4th pic. This is the material I am bookmatching for the interior back. The pattern feels almost like a slice through the living tree , it is natural and makes us reflect on where the furniture comes from.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mark.....I doubt seriously if you're boring anybody reading this thread! It's interesting to watch the though process and the physical process. I love the grain in those book matched pieces!

[Aaron Montgomery]

I'm bored.. Ok.. not really. ;) Great project and it's really coming out nice. I find that documenting my projects through my web site also helps remind me how I did a project - often I go back through it and say "oh yea..".

What kind of bandsaw is that? - I don't recognize it right off.

Keep us posted.

[Karl Laustrup]

Boring! Boring! I think not Mark. I, for one, am absorbing as much as I can from this tutorial that my little pea brain can handle. Now I really have to figure out a way to hook up a 500 gajillion something or other, for my brain, so I can absorb more. Just not sure if I should get one that's internal or go with external and use a fire wire.:rolleyes:
Patiently waiting for the next installment.

Karl

[Mark Singer]

This morning I did a couple of small things. Edge joint the resawn veneer using a simple shooting set up...there is not enough "Edge " to keep the plane square freehand. Laying clamps flat helps when gluing...much less glue than normal(less surface) and much less pressure on the clamps. Weight the top to keep the thin veneer from buckling.

[John Miliunas]

Mark, I am enjoying every last bit of your progress! It's going to be a while before I even attempt anything that indepth, but I'll have "some" idea of what needs to happen, thanks to you! :) :cool:

[Mark Singer]

Aaron,

Sorry the bandsaw is an Aggazani with a Lenox Trimaster blade. I have had several bandsaws and this is my favorite by a long shot! I still keep a Jet 14" with a small blade which is handy.

John, there is nothing intimidating about this project...you just go step by step...if you ruin something (Thank God I haven't with all my SMC friends watching:rolleyes: ) you just make that part over again. With things that aren't easily replaced (doors) just be careful!

[Mark Stutz]

Mark,
A question about resawing,please. It seems that you are making the first pass to "halve" the board, the resawing each half by placing the smooth side against the fence. Correct? The yields 2 pieces with saw marks on both sides. I'm assuming these clean up well with the drum sander. Whenever I have read , or seen (read David Marks) it seems as if the leaves are sawn off sequentially. If that is done, I assume the face needs to be jointed each time? I ask because I have a piece of 12/4 figured Koa that I have been saving until I get more practice. BTW, I have a 14" JET w/ riser. Thanks>

Mark

[Mark Singer]

Mark,

It is a good question. When you slice thinner veneer you can cut them from the same edge. I would not go less than about a1/4" gross off the bandsaw. You can take all the cuts from one face moving the fence each time. Use a square or micrometer to gage the thickness. Each pair of flitches will creat a bookmatched pair. The faces and edges will need to be planed or sanded. To joint the edges on thin veneer...make a sandwich with 2 pieces of MDF , the venner bing support in the middle. With only a very small amount protruding, trim it with a plane. On the reverse side of thin veneer tape the flitches together. The adjacent fliches will be the best bookmatched pairs. If you use PVA glue wet the other side to keep it from curling. Your 12/4 Koa should yeild about 10 pieces. The feed rate is critical too slow is not good , but too fast is a common problem. If yor blade is good the back face can stay rough. Try it on a scrap piece first.

[Jim Becker]

Mark, I'm really enjoying this photo journal of the project...it's instructive, especially for someone begining to use more hand tools in the shop. The mix of electric and electric-free methods is wonderful...use the right tool for the job, no matter what it happens to be.

[Mark Singer]

Jim,

Thank you, I intended to plane the doors and not touch them with any sandpaper at all. The wood was just to difficult and having oriented the staves for appearance did not help. Certain woods almost need to be sanded regarless of how well you can tune your planes and your experience. I did do all the shapping using spokeshaves and planes and that is something I encourage strongly. I am not a pure Neanderthal and I am still improving my skills..I learn something from each project.
Yesterday I installed the back with glue. Now the shelf and lower compartments will follow. Funny thing , being too accurate can be a problem sometimes. In finishing the doors I lost my "right" and "left" markings. I install them to adjust and they fit really well...but not quite as good as the previous time they were in. I was ready to plane and adjust them to fit...and I checked my photos, I could see from the grain I had them in reversed! I could not believe that the fit was so close reversed considering the knife hinges and curved doors. I re hung them....Perfect! I will try to demonstrate how to "tailor" the doors in place. Today I have to work work so don't expect too much. But we are heading home on this baby;)

[Jim Becker]

Work? Sheesh! (I know the feeling...)

BTW, sandpaper is a tool. Ask any turner about the "80 grit gouge"...... :D

[Mark Singer]

Well,after a full...full week I managed to get some shop time in Friday and this morning. The cabinet is really coming along now. The hinges are set for the final time and the doors adjusted. I made a shelf and used the treaded insert pins fom LV in bronze...very nice hardware. I built a lower storage compartment component. It will eventually have a dovetailed drawer in the center. I am glad I took extra time on the hinges ...they are located well and the fit is very good. The finish is Tried and True. Only the first coat is on. I will give it 3 or 4. There were a few glue fingerprints that didn't show up until the oil went on...I wet sanded them. I still need to make the pulls...probably from ebony. The ball catches are in the top , but the stop in the photo is just a scrap and will be replace with something smaller.. Oh and I still have to make the shelves which are above the cabinet.

[Jim Becker]

Wonderful! (I'm a T&T fan, myself, especially on cherry)

[John Miliunas]

Mark, I think I may have enjoyed this journey you're on as much as you enjoyed presenting it! :) Looks wonderful and really appreciate all the mini-tutorials as you went along. I think that will probably be the highlite of the bathroom, although I could easily see it in a more prominent room of the house, as well! :D Great job! :) :cool:

[Jason Tuinstra]

Mark, thanks for the on going updates. I agree with John (aka "Jim" :D ), it's been a real joy to follow. I can't wait for "the rest of the story." I'm sure the ending will be just as good as the beginning. Keep it up, you're doing great!

[Keith Christopher]

Mark,


Awesome Job ! It already looks GREAT ! What are you going to use for pulls ?


Keith

[Karl Laustrup]

Thanks for the update Mark. I was starting to have withdrawals because it seems like a real long time since your last update. The wait was well worth it.
The cabinet is stunning and IMHO is going to really out class the rest of the bath. Maybe you should just put it in the living room. :D

Karl

[Mark Singer]

The cabinet is now installed and fits the opening well. It was good I took the time to make a template to scribe the top to, since there is no molding. Todd was correct the opening is a bit less than 90 degrees on each side. It has good access though. I am afraid someone could break a hinge since the doors hit the wall and it acts as a fulcrum...maybe a small stop will work. In one photo I am showing a pewter modern pull, and one I made from ebony. The ebony one is from another piece of furniture, I am just trying it. Which do you perfer...or someting different? By the way the mahagony will darken to match the large bathroom door, which should tie it together.

[Kevin Beck]

The pewter pull matches the rest of the hardware in the bathroom but I really prefer the ebony pull.

Thanks for documenting your design and build process. It's been really educational for me.

Kevin

[Norman Hitt]

I agree with Kevin. Although the Pewter matches the other hardware, I Really like the Ebony. It might be neat if the Ebony pull had a flat Pewter plate (with rounded edges), between it and the door that only stuck out about 3/32 all around the ebony pull. (if this description makes sense).

[Christopher Pine]

I agree definately the ebony pull.. I noticed the cabinet sits off the floor any plans or is that it? Have to clean under there etc... It looks Great!
ANy plans to put shelevs above the cabinet like I seen in someones suggested design?

Again Great Job!
Chris

[Mark Singer]

Yes shelves are coming and a drawer for inside. I may get to it tomorrow.

[Glenn Clabo]

Since ya asked...pewter Mark...ties it all together. If it was a stand alone...I'd go with ebony.

How about a clear rubber stop on the wall?...it would lessin' the blow.

No matter...this has been wonderful to watch and ya done great. You are an inspiration sir. Maybe I need to spring for a local vino this time?

[Norman Hitt]

Mark, I forgot to mention that I think you may be right about needing a Stop on each door, to protect both the hinges from being broken, and also to keep the wall from marring the finish on the doore where they touch the wall. What would you use, maybe one of the brass sliding rod types mounted under the cabinet top and to the inside of the top of the doors?

It really turned out beautifully..........Norm

[Jim Becker]

I also have to go with the pewter given it's a built-in and it will tie the piece to other features already in the room...stand-alone, the ebony would have been lovely. Can we assume there will be a vertical panel on the wall inside the limestone to support the shelves and also fill the gap between the cabinet top and the wall?

[Mark Singer]

My next addition will be the 2 upper shelves. This detail works well and allows the supports to be hidden. If it is a solid shelf a dado can hide the ledger. This also works well for tables and furniture supported by walls

[Carl Eyman]

Mark. could you intall push latches? The kind where you puss the door in and a spring pushes it out where you can grab it. The design looks so clean I hate to think of it being cluttered up with a "foreign object".

[Mark Singer]

Carl,

I could use touch latches...but I think it needs something. I appreciate all the suggestions and I think the best idea is to use the pewter and it will pick up the bathroom details and tie in better. I can alway replace it with ebony...I have a few in stock that I made just in case.

Jim,
I will probably not use a panel to fill in the gap...instead I will make a deeper ledger and let it reveal. The base cabinet actually looks great with nothing in there. It really goes away.

[John Miliunas]

Mark, just as expected, the unit looks awesome in there! Great job! Also, if you're keeping a running tally, another vote for pewter. 'Course, for me, that's easy, as I really like the look of pewter w/wood. As Jim said, it ties in nicely with the existing hardware in there. :) Keep those progress pics coming! :cool:

[Greg Heppeard]

Simply gorgious.

[Alan Turner]

Nice work, Mark, esp. on the curved and coopered doors. I will offer a couterpoint on slicing veneers, since we use the same saw and blade setup. I prefer to set the fence to the final thickness of the veneer, and the alternate between the bandsaw and the jointer, so that one face of the veneer is always flat and finished. I slice mine at a light eighth, and sand to about a heavy sixteenth. I have found that on the thicker veneers, there can be some solid stock type checking if they are too thick. Just one guys opinion, however. You are doing a wonderful job.
Alan

[Roger Barga]

Beautiful work Mark, as we've come to expect from your projects. I have learned a lot from this, not just on construction technique but also about design. This has been such a great thread with contributions and discussions from members that I printed a copy for my woodworking "resource book". I expect to refer back to this when a similar project pops up in my house. Thanks for starting this thread.

roger

[Mark Singer]

I was able to get a few things done today. The shelves are complete and ready to install. It was raining today....I didn't want to get them wet and it takes a few trips back and forth to get all the stuff that is needed. I used a MDF core. Then jointed one edge and added solid Mahogany stock for the bowed front of the shelves. I began making the drawer...but ran out of time. I may start over ...I made the drawer with through dovetails and now I am afraid it may be busy looking. If I use half blind...I will start over..no biggy. The photos show my scribe technique...I am sure you all use some favorite method. I just like to insure everything is flat and the drawer side doesn't move at all! I cut these tails first ....I learned pins first long ago and have been switching over...it doesn't really make much difference and it gives woodworkers something to argue about. We are all such nice guys we find controversial topics like pins first or tails? I had to make a couple of mirror frames today for a friend so , I am close, but not quite there. This makes 2 weekends and about an extra day in misc time. The time factor is about what I expected maybe even a bit better, considering a few time consuming details, like making the coopered doors and the planning, and knife hinge install.

Alan, I have made thin veneer as well...I edge plane it in a sandwitch of 2 pieces of plywood. Thed I tape the back and glue it up. I have not had any problem with the 1/4" venner..and when the wood is kinder it can be planned.

[Mark Singer]

Yesterday I finished the drawer. I used maple for the sides and found a piece of quilted Shedua for the front. The bottom is also resawn solid Shedua and floats in a dado. 2 brass screws hold it at the back. The shelves are complete and fit very nicely in between the walls. The blind ledger is clean and there are no visible supports. I used the pewter pulls for both the drawer and the doors. The photo shows the simple ball catch at the top. In afew weeks the mahogany will darken and turn much more red, this will compiment the Shedua even more and reduce the contrast between the woods.

I really enjoyed this project and enjoyed sharing the experience with SMC. I want to thank all the participating members who really helped with insight and support all the way. The final result looks very much like Todd's Sketch Up drawing. It demonstrates that planning and design are helpful and add to the success of a project.

This was a very balanced effort starting with design and then construction. I used many machines and hand power tools and many hand tools. For me , I could not acheive quality results without both. I tried to never compromise the quality or detail and tried to chose the most efficient tool for each task. I also tried to maintain a consistent level of detail, ie, coopered doors and knife hinges and hand dovetails...using Blum hinges or machine dovetails would compromise the attention to detail in what is a hand worked cabinet.
I have recieved many thanks along the way for explaining the process. This project may seem difficult to some people....and there are simpler similar projects to try and eventually move to this. For example a similar carcass, with a single door instead of a pair and a flat door not coopered. That would greatly simplify the cabinet and it would be an easy one to try. You could still use knife hinges and just scribe to the cabinet side and trim back a bit. If anyone has any questions about similar projects I will try to help.
I have learned a great deal having to slow down and think about each step to post it here. It forces you to think about all the little things you just do sometimes without thinking....once you focus on them it reinforces the process and clearifys it. Thanks again!

[Mark Singer]

PICS CONTINUED....Here are afew more pics....

[Jim Becker]

That looks WONDERFUL, Mark. Great job!

I do have one question...what is going to fill the gap between the cabinet top and the wall on the limestone side? "Stuff" is going to seek it out!!! (somebody's diamond ring or something like that...it's a natural law!)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mark....I love the woods you've used. I especially like the contrast on the exposed dovetails on the drawer! Beautiful work!

[Mark Singer]

Jim,

Well your right! I will cut a strip of a dark wood like wenge and install it between the wall and the top...no diamond rings , dentures, or pizza will disappear!:rolleyes:


That looks WONDERFUL, Mark. Great job!

I do have one question...what is going to fill the gap between the cabinet top and the wall on the limestone side? "Stuff" is going to seek it out!!! (somebody's diamond ring or something like that...it's a natural law!)

[John Miliunas]

Just wonderful, Mark! Simply, wonderful. :) I can see that I have much to learn, but as you say, it's pretty much a matter of learning to walk before you can run. Your attention to detail and recognizing every move you made in this process is quite obvious. One of these years.... :rolleyes: Also, all the beautiful wood used...Wow! The wood incorporated on "inside" components easily rival what many of us use on the outside of our stuff! Again, great job and superb tutorial along the way! :) BTW, speaking of rings and pizza's, did you ever find the pizza hiding under whatever stuff in your shop???!!! :D :cool:

[Jason Tuinstra]

Mark, you did a great job on this one - not only in craftsmanship, but also in updates and explanation. The end result is spectacular. Thanks for sharing it with us.

[Scott Coffelt]

Truly beautiful work. I love the mix of woods and the curves.

Any accent lighting going to be installed?