Jointer adjustments

[Mike Cruz]

I know I've seen a thread here before about this, but I can't seem to find it. Sorry for the redundancy.

I just went through the adjustments that the manual suggested on my DJ-20 after installing the Byrd head...that went great and I'm tickled pink. But I ran two boards through it (on edge), and put them together, there was a concave gap between them... .018... I think that is WAY too much. (Van, I don't see how this could be another gloat...:o)

I know I've seen a chart that shows what causes a concave cut, convex, etc, but can't seem to find it. Not sure if there even are any more adjustments I can do on this thing. Sure hope there are...

Thanks

[Stephen Cherry]

Try moving the outfeed table up or down- I can never remember which way goes which. Maybe table too low = concave; too high= convex.

[Van Huskey]

Sorry about the need for an anti-gloat!

Convex usually means either technique OR one of the tables is tilted up at the end. We established you know what you are doing so it is probably not technique. Further did the wood have a bow or was it straight before jointing?

[Mike Cruz]

Thanks, I'll go check the jointer again. Also, I'll run them through again, just to be sure. My straight edge is only 36", so unfortunatly, I don't know how to check whether the table lifts at an end. By that, I mean that I can't run the straight edge from one end of the jointer to the other.

While, yes, I know what I am doing, that doesn't mean I didn't screw up. ;) I'll let you know...

[Van Huskey]

Thanks, I'll go check the jointer again. Also, I'll run them through again, just to be sure. My straight edge is only 36", so unfortunatly, I don't know how to check whether the table lifts at an end. By that, I mean that I can't run the straight edge from one end of the jointer to the other.

While, yes, I know what I am doing, that doesn't mean I didn't screw up. ;) I'll let you know...


Sorry, I didn't mean the table wasn't flat and curled up at the end (though that could be the case but you already checked the tables for flatness) meant that the tables were'nt coplanar and that one table (probably the outfeed) is angled up and not coplanar, you should still be able to tell that it is angled up with the 36" straight edge. Since the DJ-20 is a parallelogram jointer the adjustments should be easier!

[Jeff Willard]

http://home.usmo.com/~rfwoodworking/jointer.html

[Bob Wingard]

If you have a dial indicator, use it for reference and RAISE the outfeed table just shy of 1/2 of the difference, or approx. 0.007". Make a few test cuts and check the flatness again. Continue raising the outfeed table 0.001" at a time until you get the desired results.

[Mike Cruz]

Success! Okay, I suck, I really don't remember if I raised the outfeed table or lowered it (I think I raised it, my brother thinks we may have lowered it) but two boards together and NO gap...at all...on ends or middle. Perfect! And the Byrd head is sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

Also, my brother and I tuned up my Grizzly 20" planer and had to readjust ALL the things that require any adjustment. That thing was WAY out of whack. It was used, not new, so whoever used it before me had some SERIOUSLY funky settings on it.

Thanks, all, for your help!