Stanley #45 restoring...

[Dan Carroll]

I picked up a Stanely #45 cheap; most of the parts were there (missing the slitter and a spur, both of which are fiarly easyto find). Any way it is just about as dirty as can be and feels like it was put away 50 years ago with a coating of dirty oil which is now very gummy. It also has a fair amount of surface rust and needs to be soaked in citric acid for a day or so before going on to the next step. I really do not want to soak the rosewood handle in the acid along with the metal. Does anyone have experience with removing these handles? I can see what looks to be some small nails/rivits on the handle, but before I do anything, I wanted to find out if there is a good way to remove this with doing any damage. The handle is tight now and I certainly want to keep it that way. ANy pointers would be great.

Thanks, Dan C.

[Jim Koepke]

I am not sure if there is a way to remove then replace the handle without doing a little electric welding.

My solution would be to wrap the handle as best as possible and then suspend the whole body into a vat of citric or vinegar with the handle above the surface and out of the liquid.

Maybe someone here knows the secret of how Stanley attached the handles when the planes were manufactured.

jim

[Thomas Nye]

I have a dozen Stanley 45's of diferent vintages; 1-46; 4- 55's and some of them have a pin all the way through the handle and these can be easily piened out ( very carefully ). Some of my others only have the pin through one side and these, I doubt you could get it out without damaging the wood or the plane itself. I have used the 45's quite a bit and they work great once you get the hang of them.

If its one of the ladder ones, I would suspend the handle out of any soaking solution so its not damaged. If the pin is all the way through, remove it carefully and soak the whole thing.

Let me know which type you have ?

[Mark Wyatt]

I have a dozen Stanley 45's of diferent vintages; 1-46; 4- 55's and some of them have a pin all the way through the handle and these can be easily piened out ( very carefully ). Some of my others only have the pin through one side and these, I doubt you could get it out without damaging the wood or the plane itself. I have used the 45's quite a bit and they work great once you get the hang of them.

If its one of the ladder ones, I would suspend the handle out of any soaking solution so its not damaged. If the pin is all the way through, remove it carefully and soak the whole thing.

Let me know which type you have ?

How do you type a Stanley #45?

[harry strasil]

in John Walters stanley tools guide to identity and value.

[Jim Koepke]

How do you type a Stanley #45?

If you can put up a few pictures, I may be able to get close.

jim

[Thomas Nye]

The oldest ones have the toe knob on the main body itself, while the newer ones have it on the fence. I have used both and like both. By posting some pics of it, we will be able to get close as Jim stated. Some had such slight differences that its hard to tell. Cant wait to see the pics !

[Dan Carroll]

If you can put up a few pictures, I may be able to get close.

jim


I think it is a 'type 12' in that it does not have the floral back ground and the trade mark on the skate has the script stanley. It only has pins on one side of the wood handle so it looks like I am going to have to hold it out of the bath or take a chance on the rosewood be damaged in the vinager/citric acid. I am inclined to go with vinager first and the then fall back on the citric acid if that does not get it cleaned up.

[Jim Koepke]

I am inclined to go with vinager first and the then fall back on the citric acid if that does not get it cleaned up.


I am not sure one is any more effective than the other. My thoughts on the differences is that vinegar is easier to find, every grocery store carries it. Citric acid is cheaper but you have to hunt around for it.

jim

[Thomas Nye]

I think it is a 'type 12' in that it does not have the floral back ground and the trade mark on the skate has the script stanley. It only has pins on one side of the wood handle so it looks like I am going to have to hold it out of the bath or take a chance on the rosewood be damaged in the vinager/citric acid. I am inclined to go with vinager first and the then fall back on the citric acid if that does not get it cleaned up.

Check out this link, it should help you.

http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/comb-planes/45types/45types.htm

I would definately wrap the handle and keep it out of any of the fluids as Jim and I stated. You can use the handle to your advantage to help suspend the plane.

[Mark Wyatt]

If you can put up a few pictures, I may be able to get close.

jim

This is my Stanley #45. Any ideas on the type?

[harry strasil]

that's a type 10, made during 1909 only.

[Mark Wyatt]

that's a type 10, made during 1909 only.


Cool. I'm sure that makes it work better. :rolleyes: Thank you! Any reason it was only made during 1909? And while I'm asking, what does this do-hickey do?

Can I just say it's awesome that this site exists?

[harry strasil]

That is the only year they used that imprint on the skate. That is a Cam Rest modification introduced in 1902 that goes on the front rod and is used as a depth guide, That is the second version of it, the first one had a habit of breaking due to the design of the locking device.

[Scott MacLEOD2]

I've dunked a whole plane in Evaporust, wood and all with no apparent effect on the wood. I love evaporust as long as I err on the side of caution and take the item out to check too early. Do not leave it in too long..


I haven't tried it yet but the next one I do I'm going to try to isolate the wood with Press n Seal sandwich wrap. I use that stuff for all kinds of things, pressure bandaging, wrapping wet brushes and on n on. It seals to itself and isolates the wrapped item without leaving any residue.

I've also used citric acid and vinegar but much prefer evaporust.

Scott