Need advise on leveling cast iron extensions on SawStop

[Larry Feltner]

I just bought the SawStop PCS. I've been taking my time setting it up because I've just been too busy to do it all at once. If you have kids you know what I mean, lol. Anyway I was playing around tonight trying to level the extension wings. I have a straight edge from Lee Valley that I am using. I started by putting the straight edge across the table and raising the extension up to being level with the bottom of the straight edge. The problem is when I tighten the bolts, the outer end of the extension is slightly higher than the table leaving a small gap under the straight edge where the extension meets the table. Is it possible to get the extension perfectly level with the table where there are no gaps under the straight edge or am I being a little to picky? I can get the seem very smooth, but when I do it appears that the outer edge of the extension raises a little higher than the table leaving a gap under the straight edge where the seem is. What is normal here and is there a better procedure for leveling the extension wings? Thanks for the help!

[joe milana]

I just bought the SawStop PCS. I've been taking my time setting it up because I've just been too busy to do it all at once. If you have kids you know what I mean, lol. Anyway I was playing around tonight trying to level the extension wings. I have a straight edge from Lee Valley that I am using. I started by putting the straight edge across the table and raising the extension up to being level with the bottom of the straight edge. The problem is when I tighten the bolts, the outer end of the extension is slightly higher than the table leaving a small gap under the straight edge where the extension meets the table. Is it possible to get the extension perfectly level with the table where there are no gaps under the straight edge or am I being a little to picky? I can get the seem very smooth, but when I do it appears that the outer edge of the extension raises a little higher than the table leaving a gap under the straight edge where the seem is. What is normal here and is there a better procedure for leveling the extension wings? Thanks for the help!

Larry, when you attach the fence rails, you can put a little down pressure on the extension wing while tightening the rail bolts. It may take a little trial and error, but you will eventually get it. Isn't this addressed in the manual?

[glenn bradley]

Cast iron is surprisingly malleable. As Joe says a little downward force while tightening up the fence rails may do the trick. In extreme cases a bit of shim (I use foil tape as it stays put) run along the top edge will drop the outer edge and fill the gap.

[Eiji Fuller]

I would just stick with the shims as cast iron is easy to crack . Ive never heard that malliable was a characteristic of cast iron. Ridgid yes, malleable??? I dont think so. if it was it wouldnt be a good choice for a top.

[Joe Chritz]

I use aluminum tape of the kind used for sealing HVAC for shim like Glenn does.

You would shim the top portion of the wing and it should drop the ends. It does take some trial and error.

If you are within a couple thousandths it is likely plenty good enough. Grab a sheet of notebook paper (about .003), if it will slid in the gap then you should shim it.

Joe

[John Coloccia]

Measure the gap with a feeler gauge. You may be surprised how small it is. A .001" gap is pretty obvious, and .005" looks downright huge. It does to my eye at any rate. Anyhow, there are good suggestions here but before you pull your hair out, know what you're working with.

If you don't have feelers, aluminum foil is about .0005".

[John Coloccia]

LOL...the new math

1 notebook = 6 aluminum foils

[Will Overton]

Larry, when you attach the fence rails, you can put a little down pressure on the extension wing while tightening the rail bolts. It may take a little trial and error, but you will eventually get it. Isn't this addressed in the manual?

Joe is correct. Unfortunately it's omitted in the saw manual, but you will find it on Page 7 of the fence manual.

[Keith Albertson]

If you search these posts, you'll find some great ideas to help level any table saw extensions. I remember a picture of someone using 2x4s, clamps and sawhorses. I also found several great ideas like tapping with a rubber mallet, and the shim techniques. Unfortunately, I found these AFTER I struggled for 2 days to get my extensions level.

The rails did help a lot, once I got there, but as someone already said, they don't mention this so much in the manual.

[Ted Baca]

You might take a tri square and see if the edges of the main saw table and the extensions are square. Take the advice suggested in measure the difference with a feeler guage. If it is less than .0005 you might try filing the high spot off the mating surfaces to lessen the shim thickness. If you have a nice "know to be" flat surface use emery cloth between the edge and flat surface. Cast Iron sands pretty quick and easy. Remeber this is just to lessen the shim requiremments, don't try to machine a prefect fit or you will ahve a very narrow table top.

[Van Huskey]

I would just stick with the shims as cast iron is easy to crack . Ive never heard that malliable was a characteristic of cast iron. Ridgid yes, malleable??? I dont think so. if it was it wouldnt be a good choice for a top.

There are malleable cast irons (malleable, nodular and ductile for example) but the grey cast iron used in machines is indeed brittle and not malleable.

[Larry Feltner]

Thanks for the suggestions. It sounds like the first step would be to put a straight edge on it to get a smooth seam. Then try to get as close to level using the fence rails when I bolt those on. If I can't get pretty close using the fence rails, then come back and loosen the extensions and shim with aluminum tape. Sounds like a good plan to me. One other idea that occurred to me after seeing the suggestions. Could I partially tighten the extension bolts and put the fence rail on and bolt the fence rail tight so that the table and extension wings are as close to level as I can get them, then tighten the extension table bolts the rest of the way. I'm thinking with the fence rail holding the table level first, it might make the whole process easier. Is there anything wrong with working backwards like that?

[joe milana]

Thanks for the suggestions. It sounds like the first step would be to put a straight edge on it to get a smooth seam. Then try to get as close to level using the fence rails when I bolt those on. If I can't get pretty close using the fence rails, then come back and loosen the extensions and shim with aluminum tape. Sounds like a good plan to me. One other idea that occurred to me after seeing the suggestions. Could I partially tighten the extension bolts and put the fence rail on and bolt the fence rail tight so that the table and extension wings are as close to level as I can get them, then tighten the extension table bolts the rest of the way. I'm thinking with the fence rail holding the table level first, it might make the whole process easier. Is there anything wrong with working backwards like that?

First of all, before offering all these suggestions, we should have asked you just how far off plane the extension is. If it's a few thou., a little hand pressure should take care of it. If it's more than that, shimming will help. If its off something like 1/4" , a call to SS is in order.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Larry,

I'm having the same problem. The manual does say to put some downward force on the wings when you attach and tighten the fence rails. Unfortunately that's nearly impossible to do by yourself.

I've had my saw set up for a few months now (in poor alignment), and it has been completely fine. The cut is good and square, so I wouldn't sweat it too much.

But I still do plan on bringing in a helper and tackling the issue at some point. I just got too impatient setting it up because I was excited to start using the machine!

[Michael Peet]

The manual does say to put some downward force on the wings when you attach and tighten the fence rails. Unfortunately that's nearly impossible to do by yourself.

Nah, it can be done. John had a good idea here:

http://sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1302311&postcount=30

This way worked too but I don't think it's as nice as John's method:

http://sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1265983&postcount=4

Mike

[Will Overton]

I wonder, considering the weight of the wings and the nature of cast iron, would the ends start to sag in time?

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

Thanks Michael. I was about to go searching for that post so I didn't have to repost the pics, but you beat me to it.

That method worked really well for me. it was nice to be able to gradually tighten the clamps to bring the outer edge down. get the inside seam flush (wing to table), and then use the straightedge across the whole thing.

[JohnT Fitzgerald]

I wonder, considering the weight of the wings and the nature of cast iron, would the ends start to sag in time?

I guess that's possible - but the front/rear rails are heavy duty steel, so they'll provide all the support you need.

[Peter Aeschliman]

Nah, it can be done. John had a good idea here:

http://sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1302311&postcount=30

This way worked too but I don't think it's as nice as John's method:

http://sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=1265983&postcount=4

Mike

Booyah! thanks for posting... why didn't I think of that?!? :)

[glenn bradley]

I would just stick with the shims as cast iron is easy to crack . Ive never heard that malliable was a characteristic of cast iron. Ridgid yes, malleable??? I dont think so. if it was it wouldnt be a good choice for a top.

When aligning the wings front to back you can get a surprising amount of "adjustment flex" to help you get a seamless fit :). I recall a post about a jointer table being fouled when a well-rounded friend decided it was a good place to sit during a shop tour. Rigid? Yes. Strong as steel? No. :eek: I didn't mean to imply it was "putty in our hands" but as shown in John T. Fitzgerald's linked post, when bolted at one end, a little pressure will adjust the other end more than you would think.;) With the proper force it is also easily dented or cracked. Doesn't make it bad, its just the nature of the material.

[JIm McMullen]

I used aluminum foil to shim mine. Was back in '06 and has not sagged--not perfect, but darned close. Really tested my patience, though.

[Larry Feltner]

Guys, thanks for the advice. I used the method of placing a 2 x 4 under the fence rails with a clamp on the 2 x 4 and the wing. It worked perfectly. I don't think I could have gotten them any closer to perfectly flat. The hardest part was getting the seem really smooth before using the clamp method to level them up. I'm very happy with the results. For anyone who has assembled their wings and not gotten them level, I would recommend loosening the bolts, get the seem as smooth as you can, then use the clamp method to level the wing. It's worth the time.