Couldn't stand it anymore....

[Jim Underwood]

Last night I wanted to finish a nice Red Oak Platter (pictures later) but I didn't trust my Talon chuck on the reverse-turn.....

Thanks to fellow creekers I found myself in posession of said chuck sometime last year when it went on sale at Hartville Tools...

Only problem is the dang thing's jaws weren't true. You could get a perfect tenon or recess, but when you reverse chucked it, the piece wobbled no matter what. I finally took a hard look at the thing, and I realized they hadn't cut the jaws square. What I mean by that is that they seem to start out life as one round piece, then get cut in quarters. Where the cut was made was evidently not quite 90°, because in the closed position, one edge of each jaw was higher then the other, causing it to grip in four places instead of eight.

It's driving me crazy. Practically new equipment that doesn't run true?:mad:

I finally decided I could fix it myself. So I clamped the jaws closed, and went after it with a HSS scraper. About ten minutes later the face of the jaws were smooth and true, and the serrated outside part of the jaws were exactly true also. It took a little finessing with a pointy scraper to cut the serrations, but in the end, it was as round as could be instead of "lumpy".

When I reverse turned the platter, nary a wobble could be seen... :D

I didn't attempt truing up the inside of those jaws... .:eek:

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jim - I know what you mean - trued up the jaws of my Talon with a file. Makes a huge difference when trying to get a blank mounted without wobble!

Nice to know I wasn't the only one! Glad you got yours running true!

[David E Keller]

good to know... I've got a talon that produces a bit of wobble when things are reversed. I assumed I was doing something wrong(and maybe I am)... I'll be checking the jaws on my next trip out to the shop.

[Cathy Schaewe]

Huh. Maybe that explains things about one of my chucks - I'll have to check.:confused:

[Jim Underwood]

Those darn little Nova jaws are next. :mad:

[Jim Underwood]

Jim - I know what you mean - trued up the jaws of my Talon with a file. Makes a huge difference when trying to get a blank mounted without wobble!

Nice to know I wasn't the only one! Glad you got yours running true!


Dittos! I'm glad I'm not the only one also...:cool:

[Jake Helmboldt]

Jim, can you post a picture of what you did? I'm having trouble envisioning where the flaw was and what you did to correct it. I've never been truly happy with my Talon jaws and I'm wondering if I should do the same thing. (or if Oneway needs to get their QC act together).

thanks, Jake

[Bill Wilcox]

Yes please post some pic's. I am having the same problem.
Thanks,
Bill

[Jamie Straw]

I sent an email to tech support and the marketing guy at Oneway. This is the kind of thread where we reallly need to hear from the manufacturer. I have a Talon from the Hartville sale, but don't know if it has the same problem -- any rotational weirdnesses are easy for me, as a newbie, to blame on myself. Won't have shop time for a couple days, hope my chuck is square-square-square!

[Reed Gray]

I had one of the Australian turners mention fine tuning his chuck by putting a fine shim between the jaws, then turning the jaws down with a scraper. Can't remember why you need the shims (1/16 inch or so) but they are necessary. I haven't done that yet, but my jaws have taken some abuse from my coring tools. Not in a long time, but still, I should try it.

robo hippy

[Jon McElwain]

Hmm. I've wondered about this for quite a while. I bough a used set of Nova jaws on E-bay, and when they produced said wobble, I figured I got a bad set or something. I'd like to see the fix, video or photo would be awesome. I need to get mine running better....

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Last night I wanted to finish a nice Red Oak Platter (pictures later) but I didn't trust my Talon chuck on the reverse-turn.....

Thanks to fellow creekers I found myself in posession of said chuck sometime last year when it went on sale at Hartville Tools...

Only problem is the dang thing's jaws weren't true. You could get a perfect tenon or recess, but when you reverse chucked it, the piece wobbled no matter what. I finally took a hard look at the thing, and I realized they hadn't cut the jaws square. What I mean by that is that they seem to start out life as one round piece, then get cut in quarters. Where the cut was made was evidently not quite 90°, because in the closed position, one edge of each jaw was higher then the other, [COLOR="Red"]]causing it to grip in four places instead of eight.[/COLOR

It's driving me crazy. Practically new equipment that doesn't run true?:mad:

I finally decided I could fix it myself. So I clamped the jaws closed, and went after it with a HSS scraper. About ten minutes later the face of the jaws were smooth and true, and the serrated outside part of the jaws were exactly true also. It took a little finessing with a pointy scraper to cut the serrations, but in the end, it was as round as could be instead of "lumpy".

When I reverse turned the platter, nary a wobble could be seen... :D

I didn't attempt truing up the inside of those jaws... .:eek:

Which jaws are those that you had problems with Jim ??, the profiled or dovetail jaws.

and you are saying they did grip at four places instead of eight, can you explain that, as I cant follow that, sorry :o

Are these the jaws ?? and real Oneway jaws ??, I do have several chucks and even more jaw sets, I never noted the problem you have, but wonder if I should have a closer look at them :confused:

[John Hart]

So, THAT's what's wrong with my chuck!! I thought it was just me. My next trip to the shop, I'm truing up my chuck. Thanks Jim!! :)

[Moshe Eshel]

I have to say I have four chucks by Oneway (two still in box), with multiple jaw types (#1,#2,#3,Tower and others), Both Talon and Stronghold, and never had a problem with them... If I were you I would have contacted them prior to self-fixing - in my experience they give great support.
On another note: many wood turners do modify their jaws sometimes to customize them for special usage (removing serrations for making the jaws smooth and other things)

In any case I'm glad your turnings don't wobble anymore!

[Rob Cunningham]

Jim and Steve, I'd also like to see pics of your procedure for truing up the jaws.

[Tim Rinehart]

I had questions about my one of my stronghold chucks, and some issues with 'wobble' on reverse chucking, etc.
I checked and found that the screws that pull the adapter down were a bit on the loose side, as I could tighten them a bit. I decided to remove the adapter, clean it and then lightly lubricate it before reinstalling, with a slow cross-tightening technique to make sure it pulled in straight till it felt like it was seated...basically no more thread turning without excessive force.
This took care of problem for me.

Before you go turning/filing any metal off your chuck, I would check the adapter is seated correctly also.

[Jim Underwood]

This was definitely not a problem with the adapter - although, I hasten to say, if I were analyzing a problem I wouldn't rule it out.

Without pictures, I'll try to describe the problem a little better. I have no "before" pix, but later on, I may show pix of the tuned up jaws.

I have the original serrated jaws for the chuck.

If you mounted the chuck and looked at it from the "drivers side" of the lathe while rotating the spindle, you would notice that there were 4 "high spots" in the wobble. Each jaw had a "low spot" and a "high spot" where they would meet the adjoining jaws. So if you changed your viewpoint so you are looking down the axis of the spindle from the tailstock end, looking at the top jaw, with the jaws completely closed and no gaps, you would notice that it would be "twisted" counterclockwise, so that the "right" side of the jaws were higher than the "left" side, relative to the jaw next to it. So each jaw "ramped" up to the next jaw, instead of creating one smooth line around the chuck....

Clear as mud?

I wondered if I should have put some shims in between the jaws when doing this, but figured it couldn't be worse than it already was...

And I suppose I should have called tech support and asked them about it, but I really tire of equipment not being accurate from the outset, and then having to take lots of extra steps to fix it...:(

Normally I don't have a problem calling tech support, but after three tries with my Jet tailstock, I'm just weary of all the problems with my chucks and lathe... Each of these three tailstocks is just enough off one way or another so that it's just not quite lined up, which makes for wonky stuff going on when you're trying to drill...

And judging from all the responses, this seems to be quite a problem. What the hell is wrong with manufacturers that they can't make a relatively accurate chuck and jaws for wood? I shoulda measured the runout on the fool thing, but I think it was near 1/16th inch. And that's nowhere near acceptable, by any standard.

See the picture below for a drawing of the problem. The representation of the chuck at left describes the twist in the jaws. The one on the right represents what it should look like in the closed position. This is why I say it is definitely not an adapter problem.... This was machined incorrectly and that's all there is to it.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jim - my problem with the jaws are slightly different. I figured that the jaws were punched out when made and that left a small raised area on each jaw that just happened to be on the leading edge.

The problem that I had was no matter how nice of a job I did on getting the tenon straight and 90* for a proper fit to the chuck - it always wobbled. Couldn't figure it until I really looked at the jaws and saw the raised areas. Well, heck, can't seat tight up against the blank if you can't get to the blank!

Used an old file and turned the lathe on and worked on it until the face of the jaws were flush. Simple thing to do and it did make a difference when seating blanks.

152801 152802 152803

I have since repeated the same process with the #2 and #3 jaws just to make sure everything will seat properly.

[Jim Underwood]

Leading or trailing edges is a good way to put it. In my illustration you can see that the trailing edge of each jaw ramped up...

In addition to the problem I illustrate, I also had the one you mentioned Steve. I used the scraper to flatten them out too.

[John Hart]

Hmmm...well I went out to the shop and went near the lathe. (I promised myself that I wouldn't go near the lathe until the deck was complete) and took a couple shots of my chuck.
152815 152816

I really didn't see anything wrong. So I guess it's the operator. Maybe we can put me on the lathe and file me down a little?? :confused:

Oh...then I couldn't stand it...so I cut off a piece of a deck post and turned it round and round
152817

I knew I shoulda stayed away from the lathe :rolleyes:

[Allen Neighbors]

I had that problem with my little Compac chuck. The jaws weren't lining up correctly when closed. So I turned them flat, using a HSS cutter at about 150-200 rpm. Later, a more thorough inspection showed that it was Loc-Tite that had been put on the screw posts in the round jaw slides... cleaned all that gunk off, reset the screw posts... and then had to re-true them again.
All the jaws on both of my Nova SN2s are perfect. The Titan has a problem, though. It has Powergrip Jaws. When the No 1 Jaw is loosened just a bit, the slides are smooth as silk. When the No 1 Jaw is tightened, the slides are hard to tighten and loosen... have to really crank down on it. I think it must be something about the Jaw - where it meets the slide. And I don't know how to fix that.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

This was definitely not a problem with the adapter - although, I hasten to say, if I were analyzing a problem I wouldn't rule it out.

Without pictures, I'll try to describe the problem a little better. I have no "before" pix, but later on, I may show pix of the tuned up jaws.

I have the original serrated jaws for the chuck.

If you mounted the chuck and looked at it from the "drivers side" of the lathe while rotating the spindle, you would notice that there were 4 "high spots" in the wobble. Each jaw had a "low spot" and a "high spot" where they would meet the adjoining jaws. So if you changed your viewpoint so you are looking down the axis of the spindle from the tailstock end, looking at the top jaw, with the jaws completely closed and no gaps, you would notice that it would be "twisted" counterclockwise, so that the "right" side of the jaws were higher than the "left" side, relative to the jaw next to it. So each jaw "ramped" up to the next jaw, instead of creating one smooth line around the chuck....

Clear as mud?

I wondered if I should have put some shims in between the jaws when doing this, but figured it couldn't be worse than it already was...

And I suppose I should have called tech support and asked them about it, but I really tire of equipment not being accurate from the outset, and then having to take lots of extra steps to fix it...:(

Normally I don't have a problem calling tech support, but after three tries with my Jet tailstock, I'm just weary of all the problems with my chucks and lathe... Each of these three tailstocks is just enough off one way or another so that it's just not quite lined up, which makes for wonky stuff going on when you're trying to drill...

And judging from all the responses, this seems to be quite a problem. What the hell is wrong with manufacturers that they can't make a relatively accurate chuck and jaws for wood? I shoulda measured the runout on the fool thing, but I think it was near 1/16th inch. And that's nowhere near acceptable, by any standard.

See the picture below for a drawing of the problem. The representation of the chuck at left describes the twist in the jaws. The one on the right represents what it should look like in the closed position. This is why I say it is definitely not an adapter problem.... This was machined incorrectly and that's all there is to it.

Thanks for explaining this Jim, I can understand this, (not the 4 or 8 places:o)
I certainly do not have that problem, or I should say, never noticed this yet, but I will have a look as soon as I can get to the lathe again.

I think though that you should have contacted Oneway, even now, they are very good in customer relations and I'm sure they would like to know that this did happen, (should not have gotten out the door so to speak IMO)

I also wonder if this is just the jaws, and if not, then any other jaw set would have the same problem.

Give Oneway a call and a chance to rectify this, they do have a 1-800 number :)

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Jim - my problem with the jaws are slightly different. I figured that the jaws were punched out when made and that left a small raised area on each jaw that just happened to be on the leading edge.

The problem that I had was no matter how nice of a job I did on getting the tenon straight and 90* for a proper fit to the chuck - it always wobbled. Couldn't figure it until I really looked at the jaws and saw the raised areas. Well, heck, can't seat tight up against the blank if you can't get to the blank!

Used an old file and turned the lathe on and worked on it until the face of the jaws were flush. Simple thing to do and it did make a difference when seating blanks.

152801 152802 152803

I have since repeated the same process with the #2 and #3 jaws just to make sure everything will seat properly.

Steve, I assume you had this on new jaws right ??

I ask this because if I look at the picture of the jaws, it looks like the jaws were damaged while turning as there are small pieces missing on the leading edge of the jaws, could it be you got used jaws ??? rather than new ones :confused:

I have never been to the Oneway factory, (even though it is only half an hour or so from my place), and I'm not familiar with the way these jaws are manufactured, though I was assuming they were machined as one piece, and then cut into 4 pieces, and there should not be any flares or burrs like that, I think ????

But I can imagine that kind of damage happen if the jaws hook onto a tool-rest or turning tool :(

152878

[Jamie Straw]

Thank you, Steve, for taking the time to post those pictures.

[Jim Underwood]

Thanks for explaining this Jim, I can understand this, (not the 4 or 8 places:o)

Well with the jaws in the original shape they were in, they would never have contacted but the four edges of the jaws.

When you turn a tenon or recess you should always aim for a size that's just above the closed diameter of the jaws. This way they jaws contact the maximum amount of wood.

In the case of a tenon, especially a too large tenon, the jaws will contact it in 8 places- 2 for each jaw. This is because the diameter of the jaw is smaller than the tenon's diameter. Once you get the tenon closer to the jaw's diameter, then you'll make increasing contact until you have full, or almost full, contact.
In this instance, with the jaws seemingly rotated, the jaws would never have full contact, because only one edge could be in contact- hence only ever a 4 point contact- one for each jaw.

In the case of a too large recess, you'll only have four point contact in the center of the jaw anyway (instead of the corners, or edge of the jaws like a tenon), until you get down to the point of full contact with the correct diameter. In my case, I'd never have full contact because the twist of the jaws ensured that only one edge of the jaws were making contact.

That's more conceptual than actual, though, because of the serrations, and the amount of twist. I still didn't care to use it like that anymore because it was obvious it wasn't correct...

And you're right, I should probably have called Oneway and asked them to fix it... I figure it's too late now. I have already destroyed the evidence, and I figured it was probably out of warranty... But I may still give them a call.

[Jake Helmboldt]

Jim, are you sure the jaws were mounted properly? I just saw another set of images of a Talon chuck with the pin jaws doing exactly the same thing as your illustration. However, in another image (of the same jaws and chuck) they were lined up perfectly. I wonder if the base jaws were backed out too far or something?

I had to disassemble mine when I got CA glue on the base jaws and when I went to remount everything it took some fiddling to get everything seated properly and engaged.

[Jamie Straw]

Jim, are you sure the jaws were mounted properly? I just saw another set of images of a Talon chuck with the pin jaws doing exactly the same thing as your illustration. However, in another image (of the same jaws and chuck) they were lined up perfectly. I wonder if the base jaws were backed out too far or something?

I had to disassemble mine when I got CA glue on the base jaws and when I went to remount everything it took some fiddling to get everything seated properly and engaged.

Jake, I took a look at my Talon last night, cleaned everything with a stiff brush and carefully reassembled (it's almost new). There was one spigot jaw quarter that was just a tiny bit proud of the other three. Reallllllly interesting thing, though: if I exchanged that jaw piece with a different one, it turned out that the same **location** would be proud (in other words, it wasn't the spigot jaw part itself, it's something in the chuck below that's out of whack).Tonight, I'll put the stock jaws (#2's??) on it and see if I get the same result. If so, I'll be having a chat with tech support this week, 'cause I don't like to spend that much money on an accessory and have it not perform. I'm pretty sure now that it's not all me when these bowls don't run true after being flipped around and mounted in the chuck for inside turning.

[Rich Aldrich]

I have some issues with a Supernova 2 that was purchased from Woodcraft. The standard jaws that come with the chuck have a lot of runout. I thought there might be something wrong with the chuck last weekend when I tried to finish a few bowls. Since these were the first bowls I ever attempted to finish, I thought it was me. After reading this thread, I realize there was probably a problem with the chuck.

The body of the chuck runs true. I put the handle of a tool against the chuck and there is no bounce. With the jaws tightned together, there was runout at the face, which I filed down. When I put the file on the outside diameter of the jaws, there was a lot of bounce. It would bounce the file about 1/16". I have it much more true, but I still have a bit to go.

What do I do about the inside of the jaws where you grab a tennon. It seems that this is critical also, but how do I "machine" it on the lathe? Or maybe I dont have to worry about it.

[Rob Cunningham]

Just a warning about using files on the lathe. Always make sure your file has a handle on when filing with the lathe running. Without a handle, the tang of the file could be driven back into your hand or forearm if there's a catch. Someone I worked with years ago had it happen to them, it was not a pretty sight, and did a lot of damage.
Please be careful.

[Allen Neighbors]

Rich, it is possible to turn metal on your wood lathe, if you can slow it down enough.
I turned a Seal shoulder on a metal wheel for my little bomb trailer. It's a WWII trailer, and I couldn't buy the right seals for it, so I found some that were slightly oversized, and turned the wheel on my lathe.
I used a 3/16 square x 2.5 inch HSS cutter , with a sharpened point on one corner, in an Oland Tool. Slowed the lathe down to 150-200 rpm, and just moved the tool slowly... had to go over the shoulder a couple of times, but made it smooth and it worked!
Pics here: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=127221

Hope this helps....