PDA

View Full Version : Inquiry concerning sanding protocol for carvings



Richard Link
06-08-2010, 9:00 PM
I'm interested in how the experienced CNC folks handle relatively intricate carvings off the CNC machine. Do they require a lot of hand work to finish up, remove fuzzies, etc? How do you go about sanding these items without dulling the detail.

Hand sanding and to what grit?

Flap sanders and to what grit? How do your flap or mop sanders work - pneumatic, drill based, rotary tool?

Any other tips for getting a carving right off the CNC prepped for finish?

Thanks.

Richard

Richard Link
06-12-2010, 7:56 PM
Hmm.....106 viewings and no responses. I'm surprised since I assume everyone who does CNC carvings has to deal with the finishing process. Any hints on getting these things ready for finish/glaze?

Thanks in advance.

Richard

Gene Crain
06-12-2010, 8:27 PM
Here is one I did no sanding needed...

Also look on the Vectric forum.

Gene

Shari Loveless
06-12-2010, 8:30 PM
Richard,
There is no one tool fits all situations for sanding 3D. Some of this info will depend on the depth and detail in the carving. The 3M sanding wheels are really good but you can burn through quite a few on a large carving. I make my own miniature sanding mops for the Mastercarver flex shaft. Usually 220 grit. You can also use a dremel (just takes longer). A soft brass brush helps too. Then there's the diamond burrs for the really hard to get at places. Grit isn't a big deal on those. They all work well regardless of size and shape. Hope this helps. And be sure to wear a dust mask. The little surgical ones with the ear loops work pretty good.
Shari

Bob Schlowsky
06-12-2010, 8:41 PM
Richard
Take a look at this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MQKH1O/ref=oss_product
or search Amazon for 3M Scotch-Brite Radial Bristle Discs
I use it with a Milwaukee 2410 battery drill at about 1500 rpm. Do use a respirator and eye protection as it throws some nasty particles into the air at times. I have tried a lot of ways to clean up my 3d work. This is best combined with a couple of coats of shellac sanding sealer to make the fuzzy stuff easier to remove. If you use an air driven hand piece keep the speed under about 2500 as they get real aggressive and remove too much over that. I also use 320 sandpaper from Mirka with the foam backing as well as scotchbrite sanders
take a look at the Shopbot board search engine


or the Vectric board
The attached Razorback takes about a 1/2 hour to cleanup in the 30 inch long version. The areas like the points along the back are time consuming to clean up without losing detail - nothing is automatic when it comes to woodworking
email if you have any questions

james mcgrew
06-13-2010, 7:48 AM
good sharp bits, good tool strategy

this mdf piece was slightlu sanded with a 180 3m (grey) .25 4x4 pad to clean dust off then sealed with a sanding sealer, then sanded with 180 to remove "soft lifted fuzz" once smoothed one more coat for slick then toned with acetone based stain (non mineral) and topcoated with laquer.

no one has identified it as mdf on first look, this sat in Mann tool where all the local experts buy and they were convinced it was cherry

very few even looked at the back of it.

it is now the header in p r's closet

i have basically everything i have ever seed on the market, floggers brass, sanding pads, random orbitals anyone is welcome to stop in and see

jim

Richard Link
06-13-2010, 8:35 AM
Great stuff! Thanks for the advice and the photos.

Richard

George Brown
06-13-2010, 11:12 AM
Here is one I did no sanding needed...

Also look on the Vectric forum.

Gene


I use a 1/16 round nose from precision bits, give reasonably good results. What bit did you use on this one?

Gene Crain
06-13-2010, 3:44 PM
I use a 1/16 round nose from precision bits, give reasonably good results. What bit did you use on this one?

.25 tapered ballnose bit from discount-tools dot com. Wood is Makore which carves very well.

Gene

Bob Savage
06-15-2010, 11:55 PM
That Razorback is a very neat piece. I'd like to hear more about the sanding and finishing process on that one.

Gerry Grzadzinski
06-16-2010, 5:45 PM
I've found that with very hard woods, and a 1/16" ballnose, cutting with the grain, that I don't really need to do any sanding. Or maybe just a few small spots here and there. If there's no stain involved, I'll spray with laquer, then lightly sand after it's sealed.

And I get the 1/16" bits on Ebay for about $7-$8.

james mcgrew
06-16-2010, 7:57 PM
1/16th ball nose bits on ebay got a location?

jim

Gene Crain
06-16-2010, 8:05 PM
1/16th ball nose bits on ebay got a location?

jim

u beat me to the question

so please post a link

gene

Gerry Grzadzinski
06-16-2010, 9:13 PM
Hate to give away my source, but :)
http://stores.ebay.com/BWBTool-Carbide-Cutting-Tools_1-16-Diameter_W0QQ_fsubZ15874702QQ_sidZ612935470QQ_trks idZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

Actually, the one I got was a 2 flute with 1/4" DOC. Haven't seen another one since. But I also bought 5 of the 1/8", and they work great as well. I'm going to try the 3/32 with the 3/4" DOC next.

Gene Crain
06-16-2010, 9:49 PM
Hate to give away my source, but :)
http://stores.ebay.com/BWBTool-Carbide-Cutting-Tools_1-16-Diameter_W0QQ_fsubZ15874702QQ_sidZ612935470QQ_trks idZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

Actually, the one I got was a 2 flute with 1/4" DOC. Haven't seen another one since. But I also bought 5 of the 1/8", and they work great as well. I'm going to try the 3/32 with the 3/4" DOC next.


thx gerry!

http://discount-tools.com/endmills1.htm scroll down a tad and look for miniatures on left.....

here's another that might work for you

gene