Cabinet saw...Is wide rip capacity all that important?

[Aaron Wingert]

In the next couple weeks I'm going to be purchasing a Grizzly cabinet saw. Initially I was planning on the G0691, which has the long extension table and rails, giving it a 50" rip capacity. Now I'm questioning the need, and am considering the G0690, which is the same saw with a shorter extension table and rails, giving it a 29-1/2" rip capacity. Otherwise they're the same saw, with a $100 price difference. The increased cost isn't such an issue.

I'm upgrading from a contractor saw, which had pretty similar rip capacity to the G0690. I don't do all that much with sheet goods anyhow, and when I do I tend to break them down into more manageable pieces with the circular saw. So, I don't see myself moving the fence all the way to the right of that 50" capacity. And I certainly don't see myself cutting an 8' sheet of plywood into two 4'x4' squares on the table saw...That just scares me.

On the other hand I don't want to miss something that I could use the extra capacity for and end up wishing that I'd opted for the G0691 with longer table and rails. The G0691 also has support legs for the table.

This saw will be stationary in the middle of my shop, and overall length of the saw/rails isn't a concern...Plenty of room for either.

Does it seem like a no-brainer to spend the extra $100 and get the longer rails, or will it be something I'll probably never find a need for? I'd love to hear some opinions on rail length.

[Dan Friedrichs]

If you have room, I'd get the longer ones.

Admittedly, though, I only have 32", and ever since I switched to a track-saw for breaking down sheet goods, I don't think I've ever once needed longer rails.

[Joe Chritz]

I would be OK with 36". If you do case goods at all the wider rip is really nice but you can definitely live without it. 30" may be a bit on the small side.

Joe

[Andrew Nemeth]

While it sounds like you may not need the extra rip capacity that often, you may find you like having a nice long table. I don't have the room for long rails currently and man do I miss not being able to stack my stock there when running a lot of pieces at once. Longer rails and table would be worth all 10,000 pennies in my opinion.

[Will Overton]

The obvious answer to your question, is that it's important if you plan on cutting sheet goods on the saw. I doubt you'll be ripping a lot of 50" wide lumber. :eek:

Now, to each there own, but I prefer a track saw for sheet goods. I just ordered a SawStop with a 36" fence.

[Joe Leigh]

Good post. Keep in mind that a saw with 50" rails will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 85" wide overall. My PM2000 with 30" rails is 65" wide. That makes things pretty tight for your average basement shop.

[Sam Layton]

Hi Aaron,

For an extra $100.00 I would go with the longer rails. That being said, it depends what you will do with your saw. However, the more experience you get the more you will do. If you buy the longer rails now, and have the room, you can grow into your new saw.

I have a Powermatic 66 with long rails, and a sliding table. I rip and cross cut 4X8 sheets of ply with no problems. I don't need the extra space a lot, but when I do, it is sure nice to have.

Enjoy your new saw, Sam

[Wade Lippman]

If you have the room, it is crazy not to get the longer rails.

I have 28" and need more about once a year. But if I had the room I would definitely get the longer rails, cause you might really need it some day and it will be too late.

Of course if I had the room I would also have a RAS, shaper, 20" planer, and edge sander. However, I get by without any of them.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I have long rails on my Sawstop and I'm glad I do.

95% of my cuts are with the rip fence set at something less than 30", but if you have the space and budget for the longer rails, it's worth it when you need it.

[brett gallmeyer]

For $100 do it. maby you will only use it every so often.. but, if u dont have it, youll curse yourself every time after..

[Ben Franz]

I have a Uni with the 40" Vega fence system. In 20+ years of, admittedly sporadic, use I've only needed more rip capacity 2 or 3 times. There's always a work around solution for those times. That said, I agree with others - if you have the room and the $100, get the bigger setup. Maybe it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it?

[Harold Burrell]

I would get the longer one myself. I wish mine were longer (I would have especially liked the option of adding the router table).

You may use the extra length only on rare occasions, but when you do...

You might also condier using it as a dining table when you have guests over. Think of the seating capacity!

Also...how handy would that be for when someone needs something sliced!!! :D

[Van Huskey]

I would suggest IF you physically ahve the space to fit a 7' wide saw in your shop get the long rails period. Although it is counter-intuative the longer rails can actually SAVE you room. WMH are the real innovators in this area but any long railed saw's extension wing is the perfect place for a router table also cut you a sheet of hardboard the size of the saw top and use it for an assembly table.

I am one that thinks the longer rails are a no brainer.

[Frank Drew]

Aaron,

You might not need 50" rip capacity, but you might need 31", or 40", so I'd recommend going with the wider table.

[Erik Christensen]

I have a 50" rip and almost never use it since I got a festool track saw for sheet goods. If it is too big to safely manage solo on the table saw I end up using the track saw - which limits the table saw to <30" for most stuff.

If you work in your shop alone I do not not think you can do large panels on anything other than a euro slider - so to answer your question - if you have a helper you might use 48" rip but for me that never happens.

[Jerome Hanby]

I'd do both. Buy the saw with no rails/fence if possible and add a the 90+ inch TS-III Incra system. You can incorporate a router table wing and get double duty from the positioning system (especially if you get the joinery package).

[Cary Falk]

I went from 32" to 42" to 52". If you got the space it comes in handy ever so often.

[Chip Lindley]

Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it! (Space permitting!

All that extra table area can be put to great use. Add a router lift. Build in storage drawers beneath. Piece O Cake if the saw will not be moved from its central position. But, I have found a sturdy mobile base comes in as handy as a 50" capacity. Ya just never know....

[glenn bradley]

Of course this all depends on what you plan to do. I found my 30" capacity frequently a problem. I shifted the tube of my Beis fence over one screw hole and now find the 40" capacity to be fine. I also found a 6" jointer too small 80% of the time. My current 8" is fine. These experiences will be different for others.

[Van Huskey]

Oh I forgot to add, narrow railed saws also look whimpy, especially sitting in the middle of a big open shop space... :D

[Glen Butler]

It is also nice having a larger table to support a large crosscut sled.

[mreza Salav]

Often people think you need that rip capacity only to cut down sheet goods.
I upgraded from a 30" one to a 52" one and needed that twice in the last two projects. You may have to cross cut large glue-ups (like table tops).
Other times it will be used to stack (to the right of the fence) the pieces you want to cut. If you have the space, $100 is worth it.

[Aaron Wingert]

Oh I forgot to add, narrow railed saws also look whimpy, especially sitting in the middle of a big open shop space... :D

Thanks for all the replies and opinions gentlemen. I believe we've reached a general consensus that the longer rails is going to be the best option...Even though I probably won't move the fence out that far now you never know what projects in the future will call for. I can't disagree with Van Huskey either. :D

I'm forunate that space really isn't a concern in my basement shop, so I have plenty of room for the longer saw.

I have managed to get myself all excited about the potential for a massive outfeed table to sit right behind this saw, and the longer saw makes for a longer outfeed table. :rolleyes:

[scott spencer]

If the cost isn't an issue, and you've got the space, I'd definitely get the larger capacity....a move you're not likely to regret, which beats the heck out of kicking yourself in the pants for not doing it.

[David Helm]

Get the wide one. You'll be happier for it. Unlike what some have said, full sheets of ply can be easily handled by one person. Outfeed tables are the answer. I've used the big rip capacity many times over the years.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Get the longer rails. As mentioned, you may want to rip more than 30 inches. Another benefit, is you can drop in a router plate into the extension, and have a nice large router table. I have a 52" saw, never cut anything close to the limit, but I do 34" cuts to build a cabinet base. The extra space is also used as my layout table. I agree that breaking down sheet goods should be done with a circular saw and a guide. Festool Track saw for the folks without a budget.

Better yet, if space is not an issue, forgo the stock rails and get INCRA rails, and a router plate and have the saw/router table from hell.....

[Eiji Fuller]

I switched from a 50 to a 30 on my unisaw when I started using my festool saw. Im thinking about switching back now that I have the space. I rarely need the wide rip capacity since switching but in the rare cases it sure would be nice.

if you have alot of room I would go for the 50".

[Don Morris]

I have a small shop and no way could I handle long rails, but if I could...... Man, it's better to have and not want, than to not have and need. Sure I get along with short rails, but again.... it's better to have and not.......

[Milind Patil]

You will most likely not need 50" capacity ever, but you will need 32" - 36" occasionally. You can easily add 8 inches to G0690 by shifting the rail permanently (that's what I did on my G0690. Works great). But if you have room, go for G0691. it's not about that 50" capacity, but the extra work surface you get. That is priceless !

Nonetheless, I am extremely happy with my G0690 with 37 1/2" rip capacity.

By the way, I just noticed Grizzly has introduced new hybrid saw G0715P which basically looks like G0690 with 2HP motor, but almost $400 cheaper ! You may want to look into that.

[Aaron Wingert]

By the way, I just noticed Grizzly has introduced new hybrid saw G0715P which basically looks like G0690 with 2HP motor, but almost $400 cheaper ! You may want to look into that.

I've adopted the "go big or go home" mentality. Going for the 3hp version with the 50" rails...Upgrading from a 1-1/2hp contractor saw to a 2hp hybrid saw isn't enough of an upgrade. :D

[Matt Meiser]

I have a 32" fence, shifted to give 40" and I wish I had a bigger fence. 50" will give you the ability to reach any part of a 49x97" sheet of MDF/Melamine. If I have a lot of cuts like that to make, the track saw is fine but its a pain to drag it out for one or two cuts, set up a work surface, measure, etc. On the other hand, the track saw track, set with a square allows you to square up one corner and work from their since I've learned that not all sheets come square from the factory.

[Paul Johnstone]

Not as if you need convincing, but the longer fence is really useful when cutting 1/4 plywood for the back of cabinets. 1/4 ply is light enough that I feel comfortable crosscutting it on the table saw with no sled.. Many times, I've used the extra capacity. It's nice not to have to drag out the circular saw and straightedge for one cut.

[Howard Acheson]

To help you decide, make a mock up of a table the same size as the total top surface of a tablesaw with a 50" capacity. You will be surprised at how much space is takes up. Remember, you need space to work around the surface.

If you are not frequently working with full sheets of plywood, I would seriously think about not going for a 50" extension table. For the non-commercial shop, the extra space required is something to think about.

Personally, I added a Vega 50" fence system to my 1980's Delta Contractor Saw. I quickly cut it down to 36" capacity and am now thinking about cutting it down to 26". I now work in a garage and even though all my tools are one mobile bases, the tablesaw takes up too much room.

[Mike Wilkins]

Before I got my slider, I had a 1964 Rockwell/Delta Unisaw equipped with a
52" Unifence. Rarely went beyond 30" ripping with this setup. The extra real estate became a dumping ground for stuff, magazines, odd tools. If you have the shop space, the extra capacity would be a great place to park a router table setup, and you could use the rip fence as a router fence (with an add-on fence of course).

[Aaron Wingert]

To help you decide, make a mock up of a table the same size as the total top surface of a tablesaw with a 50" capacity. You will be surprised at how much space is takes up. Remember, you need space to work around the surface.

If you are not frequently working with full sheets of plywood, I would seriously think about not going for a 50" extension table. For the non-commercial shop, the extra space required is something to think about.

I'm fortunate that my new basement shop is huge, so there will be ample room on all sides of the saw, even the 50" one.

[Aaron Wingert]

Thanks again for all the input guys. My new G0691 with 50" rip capacity will be arriving here tomorrow. :D:D:D:D:D

[Jon Lanier]

I have a 50" and didn't think it was neccessary but it was a craigslist buy. I have come to like it very much. Not so much for sheet goods, althought that is nice. But I cross cut a lot of longer boards and that extra length has been a welcome addition.

[Van Huskey]

Thanks again for all the input guys. My new G0691 with 50" rip capacity will be arriving here tomorrow. :D:D:D:D:D


Well, it is tomorrow, where are the pics... :D:D:D

What they didn't show up at 12:01?

[scott vroom]

For what it's worth, I bought the 0690 and simply moved the rails one hole to the right to add 7" cap (now 36.5"). It required drilling a hole in the table edge, but cast iron is very easy to drill. My shop is small and I didn't have room for the 0691.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned infeed and outfeed support, which to me is a bigger problem especially in a one man shop. If you go with the wider rail 0691 you still have the problem of how to support the sheet stock as it comes off the back of the table. You'll need to either make or buy an outfeed table, and possibly an infeed table unless you're strong enough to wrestle 4x8 3/4" stock and keep it square to the fence. A slider solves some of the problems but is also much more expensive. I break down my sheet goods first with a circular saw.

[Jason White]

+1. Ditto on what Dan said.

I have the shorter rails and would only get longer ones if I had the room (maybe.....). Otherwise, I've yet to really "need" the longer rails.

Jason


If you have room, I'd get the longer ones.

Admittedly, though, I only have 32", and ever since I switched to a track-saw for breaking down sheet goods, I don't think I've ever once needed longer rails.