My own DC/cyclone question thread

[Jim O'Dell]

Ok, I think I've hijacked someone else's thread enough. I have a possible solution to my problem of not enough headroom above the ceiling joists to put a cyclone high enough to run the ducts above the ceiling joists. For those that didn't see my questions on an earlier thread, my acquired shop building has 7'7" interior ceilings and probably no more that 4/12 pitch roof. Therefore, very little room between the ceiling joists and the rafters. I don't want the ducts hanging into what little room volume I have, thus the need/desire to install overhead and out of sight.
The best wall for the cyclone is the north wall of what will be the finishing room (now a 12 X 14 covered porch). It will be in a closet with the air compressor, and the roof is the hip style on that wall. I will put the filter cartridge in the main shop room, so I don't introduce more dust into the finishing room than will aready find it's way there. If I make and install a small dormer, I'm hoping to be able to get enough head room to achieve this. Any thoughts on this idea? If you believe it is a workable solution, should I install some vent material where a window would normally go? Is there a reason to not have the exhaust run over a certain length (probably about 5 to 6 feet, and sloping down hill)? Thanks! Jim.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Sure sounds like a plan to me. I'll be watching this thread since I plan to eventually move my DC out into a shed.

[Jim Becker]

No problem extending the exhaust...on that side of the blower, you're not going to have a big issue. You can even transition to slightly larger duct if you want to further reduce restriction. I'm not sure what you are asking about with the vent...

[nic obie]

Hi Jim,

It might not be a bad idea to vent the dormer as you don't want the blower motor to overheat. Then again, if you need to heat your shop in the winter, heat lose from the vent might be a concern.

[Tom LaRussa]

Jim,

I'm also a bit confused as to what you are asking. Does what you're talking about look something like this?

[Jim O'Dell]

Thanks Jim B. I thought that's what you meant from you answer on the other thread, but I was unclear if there was a length restriction,
And yes, Tom, That's pretty much it. But I also need the inlet ducts to be above the ceiling joists, too. Thus the extra space up top for all to fit. I'll take pictures along the way, and may even post some this weekend if the sun will stay out like it is today! Heck, I'll settle for clouds and no rain. Jim

[Jim O'Dell]

Hey Kelly, I forgot to say earlier. Don't hold up on me. I work slowly!!! Jim.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Heck Jim...you'll be way past finished before I get the shed built. I have to build two decks in the yard first...I owe the wife at least that first!!

[Jim O'Dell]

After working on this for several hours, let's see if the floor plan will post. If nothing shows, I'll keep working!!! Jim

edit: Obviously NOT. I'll keep trying.

edit 2: OK, I think I've got it now. Hope there is enough quality to see the rooms. The 12 X 14 on the right is the part I'm framing in now, and is where the DC and air compressor will eventually go. Now that you have a better idea of what I'm doing, does it raise some more or better ideas? Or just more questions I need to think about? Thanke! Jim.

[Jim O'Dell]

Guess I didn't realize that an edit wouldn't bump the thread. Jim.

[Jim O'Dell]

Hi again!

I've had another thought that I wanted to throw out. Instead of the dormer, since that would limit my height to the peak of the roof (at least without looking really weird) I'm thinking now a better idea would be to build a fake chimney. I can pretty much size it to have the room I need, and could even make a removable top so I could access the motor if I ever needed to. Unless anyone has insight as to why not to do this, I think this will be the way to go. I hope to start a thread this weekend to do a pictoral update of the rebuild as others have done. Thanks again for your encouragement and ideas. Jim.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, it might be slightly more efficient to peal off the branch to the bench near the bay window from the run over the TS. It would reduce the amount of duct work you need.

[Jim O'Dell]

Jim, it might be slightly more efficient to peal off the branch to the bench near the bay window from the run over the TS. It would reduce the amount of duct work you need.


Thanks Jim. I guess when I drew this up, I was trying to keep the curves as shallow as possible. As I think about it, your suggestion might be easier to duct around the bracing. Another question on the elbows...would 2 - 22.5 degree turns with some straight pipe between them be better, or just go ahead and do a 45? Would the (if I remember the right term here) CFM loss be less one way or another? Thanks for your time and wisdom! Jim.

[Jim Becker]

The two 22.5º elbows with a shot of straight "can" be better, but not much over using long-radius elbows. That option isn't available to you if you're using plastic pipe, however and the dual bends with the straight are the way to go.