Filling Pocket Screw Holes....Anyone?....Anyone?..

[Lewis Cobb]

I've been installing some custom trimwork in my garage lately and there's one piece that has exposed pocket screws. I figured I'd plug them with the plugs I bought oh, about 5 years ago, but when I checked one, it does not bottom out properly - perhaps I didn't have the jig set up properly when I drilled them. The head of the screw is below the surface of the wood though. (barely).

Anyway, that particular piece is now a permanent part of the garage and I am wondering if anyone has filled pocket holes with either wood filler or epoxy and what type of success they had. This is going to be painted, but I don't want a "plug" of stuff popping out of the hole later on if I can avoid it.

Thanks !
Lewis

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi lewis,Have you thought about removing the screws and drilling the holes deeper?Are there too many?

[Will Overton]

Kreg pocket hole plugs;

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Paint-Grade-Plugs-count/dp/B00166CZB4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1275936733&sr=1-2

[Dave Gaul]

Would it be possible to remove the screw and re-drill the hole?

If not, I would think that epoxy would be just about fool-proof. DAP plastic wood has always served me well for "rough" work...

[Lewis Cobb]

Hi lewis,Have you thought about removing the screws and drilling the holes deeper?Are there too many?

:eek::eek::eek:
A public shaming is not necessary Andrew .....hehe

It's funny how the mind works and prevents one from seeing the obvious you know.... I can't get the jig in there easily now that the board is installed, but I could "hand drill" 'em deeper. Even if the holes got egg'd out a bit, the pocket screw plug would fill most of it with a healthy load of glue, and then any small pinholes would be treated with the wood filler I guess.

Thanks !

[Matt McGraw]

I always have to trim mine. I assumed that they were a one size fits all plug and would need to be longer for material thicker that the 3/4" that I normally use. Either way, I trim the more straight of the two ends at the same angle as it comes with and glue the plug in.

[Lewis Cobb]

I always have to trim mine. I assumed that they were a one size fits all plug and would need to be longer for material thicker that the 3/4" that I normally use. Either way, I trim the more straight of the two ends at the same angle as it comes with and glue the plug in.


Matt - I thought about that but the screw just looked "too proud" based on other pocket holes I have drilled in the past. Mind you, I did these with the "Rocket Jig" and had never used it before (I always used the clamp jig). It's probably a case of me not clamping it right.

Thanks for the tip.

[Prashun Patel]

I've never used the Kreg plugs.
I just buy a 3/8" dowel, stick it in as far as it'll go, and then flush cut it. Gluing it will result in a strong enough bond. Of course, this means you end up with end-grain exposed. I think the Kreg plugs make theirs so the edge grain is facing out.

I wouldn't use epoxy. Even if you body it up with sawdust, it'll take several applications to get it proud of the surface enough to sand down. Epoxy in large light areas also tends to stand out (for me).

[Greg Portland]

Forget the plugs, use epoxy if you are priming & painting (single application with 5 minute cure and then sand flush). The trick is to use a quality 2-part epoxy -and- a real thickening agent (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/fillers). I have used West Systems 403 microfibers in the past with a lot of success (get your mix to peanut butter consistency & apply). Give West Systems a call, they have tech support to tell you exactly what combination of products is recommended for your application.

Sawdust is fine for quick small fixes but doesn't cut it for large gap filling. The epoxy fillers are cheap (at least the microfibers were) and seem to last forever.

[Jim O'Dell]

Forget the epoxy :rolleyes: :D and use some Bondo. won't run out of the hole. Sands easily and takes Paint very well.
I think the Kreg plugs are meant to be cut off flush instead of installing flush. You could determine how proud they are, then cut a little more off of the blunt end before installing. Not sure if you can tap them in flush that way or not. I've never actually used any of them. Jim.

[Ernie Miller]

As long as you're painting ..... try Bondo. Works great and easy to sand flush.

Ernie

[Andrew Nemeth]

+1 on the bondo.

[Richard Link]

I say just fire about 100 brads all over and that will distract the viewer from the unplugged pocket holes....

All kidding aside, the Kreg plugs work quite well and I've used them several times. To be honest, though, its more attractive to go that route if you are leaving the wood bare. If you are painting, then bondo is a cheaper approach.

Rick

[Greg Portland]

Yes, Bondo works very well as does 2-part sandable putty. They are all similar products. If you already have good epoxy on hand, the thickener is going to be the cheapest option. If you don't, go get the putty or Bondo.

[Chip Lindley]

Lewis, a public shaming is certainly not necessary here. But, don't obsess over the plugs if this trim will be painted!!!!! If the trim were nice hardwood to be stained, I would lambast you for using pocket screws in the first place. Those nifty *trim head* screws make a tiny hole, easily plugged or puttied. Better yet, a pneumatic finish-nailer would be 1st weapon of choice for trimming out a room.

Do the Bondo thing! Get on with your painting and show us a pic of your finished garage!

[Lewis Cobb]

Lewis, a public shaming is certainly not necessary here. But, don't obsess over the plugs if this trim will be painted!!!!! If the trim were nice hardwood to be stained, I would lambast you for using pocket screws in the first place. Those nifty *trim head* screws make a tiny hole, easily plugged or puttied. Better yet, a pneumatic finish-nailer would be 1st weapon of choice for trimming out a room.

Do the Bondo thing! Get on with your painting and show us a pic of your finished garage!

Chip - sounds good. No real obsessing at this end, it is a garage after all. Pictures noted for when it's all ready for an unveiling.

Thanks everyone for the tips and advice.

Lewis

[Tom Welch]

Could you install some kind of trim to hide the pocket hole screws. Or maybe a tool holder of some kind on that end, maybe peg board or slat wall. Something functional maybe. Other wise I am with the bondo and paint.

[Randal Stevenson]

www then youtube.com/watch?v=k5VAxqzkmX4 for the dowel method.

[Lee Schierer]

I've done this once where I couldn't hand drill the hole deeper. I used a regular twist drill and drilled the end of a dowel to form a v-shaped indentation in the end. Put some glue in the exposed pocket hole, then put the modified end of the dowel into the hole and tap it tight against the head of the screw. Let the glue set and trim off the excess dowel with a flush cutting saw. Sand and paint. If there is a very small opening after sanding fill it with wood putty.

[Jim Becker]

I generally use the Kreg plugs...glue them in and sand them flush.

[Loren Hedahl]

Could you let the visible pocket holes be part of the design?

With a $20 - $50 Kreg jig, you could drill pocket holes in some sort of an interesting pattern.

I'm sort of kidding, but there's a bunch of possibilities to do something totally unique.

Otherwise, did anyone mention Bondo?