material estimating

[Thomas Prondzinski]

Well I've been working on my estimate for cabinet job for days now and don't seem to be getting anywhere,anyone have any easy,systimatic way to figure out a materials list for kitchen cabinets? Also three vanities. I tried to figure square footage for each material and the divide it into sheet square footage ,then round up ,not sure how accurate that is. I don't want to underestimate or overestimate. Anyone have any ideas,need to get it done by tommorrow.


Thanks Tom

[Jim Becker]

Cutlist Plus (a software application) was VERY helpful to me on that account when I was doing my Kitchen Renovation project last year and it also helped me be more efficient with the sheet goods, too. Further, since you can enter cost information for materials, it will help you have a better idea about what your project is going to cost.

[Scott Banbury]

Ditto on CutList--worth every penny!

[Jim Stastny]

If you go to the following web site you will find an online material calculator, http://www.routerworkshop.com/calculator.html Also, I like to add 15%-20% to compensate for waste, mistakes, etc.

[Todd Burch]

Thomas, here is what I do.

For Kitchen uppers, they can be 42" tall or 30". Usually 11 1/4" deep (before face frame). If 30" tall, you can get 12 cabinet sides out of 1 sheet of ply. If 42" tall, you can get 8 cabinet sides.

For lower cabinets, if you can keep the box size < 32" tall, (via the toe kick & counter), you can get 6 cabinet sides from 1 sheet. (assuming 23 1/4" deep cabinet).

For lower cabinet backs, if your cabinets are wider then 24", you can get 3 backs from m1 sheet. If less than 24" wide, 6 backs from 1 sheet.

For upper cabinet backs, wider than 24", 3 backs for 30" tall cabinet, 2 backs for 42" tall cabinets. Double these back counts for cabinet < 24" wide.

For shelves and cabinet top & bottoms, round up to multiples of 24", 32" or 48", then calculate for total linear feet of cabinetry, divide by 8', and then halve that value for the needed sheets for lower cabs and 1/4 the value of sheets for uppers. Round up.

For face frames, figure your biggest cabinet, then multiply by # of cabinets. You get extra that way and can cut around bad spots.

Doors, same deal.

Drawer boxes, figure your average size, then multiply by # of drawers, add 15%.

This should get you close pretty fast.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Tom...most cabinet makers use a per-foot price. They range from $200-500 per foot depending on grade of construction (here at least). Not sure what it would be in your area, but a quick call to a cabinet maker in your area might yield a quick answer in the morning.

I count sheets/doors/hardware, etc to make sure the per-foot price is right almost everytime. Usually takes me 2-3 days to get one out for a big job.

[Roger Kirkpatrick]

I have been using e-Cabinet Systems software to come up with a material list/cost. I then take the material cost and enter it into a spread sheet I have been working on for over a year.

Costing per lin. foot is O.K. only if you have previously calculated YOUR cost. Your cost will be different than mine. You need to know your overhead.

I only estimate by the job, never by the piece.

[Thomas Prondzinski]

Thanks for the responses, I downloaded cutlist plus and tried it out,was going to buy it until I read Todd's method and figured I would give it a try,got my figures that way,Thanks Todd. Maybe I will purchase cutlist if I see more future uses.

Tom