Cherry Log Vase - Creation Process

[Matt Hutchinson]

Well, so as not to muddy up the subject of my other threads about this piece, and to consolidate all the information into one place, this will be the official thread for how I make the Cherry Log Vase. I will be updating it over the course of the next few months.

Here's the idea of the piece. It will be executed on a much larger scale, with the final form being over 5' tall.

http://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=150347&d=1273425509

Thanks for looking!

Hutch

[Matt Hutchinson]

Why hollow up from the base? Aren't buyers looking for a fully hollowed form?

A similar question to this was raised in another thread pertaining to this piece. Here's my thinking:

1. The drying process. I am taking this piece out of a full log that's curved. I have the log, but at this point I don't know where the pith will be in the final form until I decide which axis to turn it on. No matter how it's hollowed, if the cracking gets out of hand I need to be able to repair/stabilize it. If I have to work inside the form for this, I won't want to have to try to reach 5' into it and work in a 5" wide space.

2. Form. I understand what you're saying, but I don't think a potential buyer is after a deep vase for the deep hollowing. I love the elegance of this piece, and I am guessing a future buyer will too. It's sorta along the same lines as to why deep, closed mouth forms don't get sanded thoroughly on the inside.

3. Safety. I've never done this before, and though I know it can be done, there may be safety concerns that extra deep hollowing brings to the table of which I am not aware.

4. Design. I feel that as soon as the base starts to flare out, there too begins the foot. Basically, wherever the smallest diameter ends up, to me, that is the bottom of the vase.

5. Tipsiness. As you said, it certainly will raise the center of gravity a little, but if it's only 5-6" at the base it will be tipsy no matter what. I want the ability to add weight to the bottom, whether through attaching it discretely to a heavy pedestal, or actually including weight in the foot.

I guess we'll find out if all this pans out within a few months. :D

Hutch

P.S. I don't really like the idea of having to add weight to it.

[alex carey]

im looking forward to it, keep us posted.

[John Hart]

Hutch...I have a question.

First off...let me say...I am a big fan of doing outlandish things....no matter how badly I'll be maimed in the process...or how embarrassed I might be in the end. :)

I am having trouble wrapping my head around this deep-hollowing thing. I have a hollowing scraper that I call "Big Bertha". She's as big as a horse's leg, but rides like a buckin' bronco if I go deeper than 9 inches.

Then I have a hollowing rig, that gives me stability in the back-end....but even good tool steel bends if you extend the tip beyond its ability to withstand the force (over-hung load) exerted by the moving piece.

My gut tells me that you can't even create a toolrest that will withstand it at the depths you are describing.

But like you said...It can be done. My question is..."How?"

[alex carey]

well there's no question its possible, seen plenty of other people do it, just a matter of getting everything big enough.

[John Hart]

Yeah...I guess that's my question Alex...just how big to go? I'm imagining Hutch using a 2" diameter drive shaft to hold a scraping bit. I mean...if that's what it takes..then that's what it takes. Just curious.

[Roland Martin]

Wow, if & when you achieve this, it's gonna be awesome. Take your time, think things through, and by all means, "Don't Hurt Yourself"

[Ernie Nyvall]

Yeah...I guess that's my question Alex...just how big to go? I'm imagining Hutch using a 2" diameter drive shaft to hold a scraping bit. I mean...if that's what it takes..then that's what it takes. Just curious.


Uh oh, got me to thinking now, and yes, it makes a funny sound. If you made your own banjo that sat flat with the ways so that the sleeve holding the tool rest went down between the ways. This would give enough room to weld braces on the tool rest for the 5' extension. You couldn't move the banjo across the ways, but with a slight curve in the rest, it might work. You might have to rig something to pull down on the back side of the rest, but it would still seem to need a 2" bar for that length. Actually to hold the back side of the rest rigid to the ways might be the the best of these two ideas, and you might not have to go between the ways for the support.

I've seen some tall turnings, but never really wondered how they did it. oh well.

[Bernie Weishapl]

5 ft. Can anyone say pucker power. John is right he would need a drive shaft at 5 ft.

[Robert Arrowood]

There is a guy here in Charlotte NC that doe's it all the time.He is has a web site to show his trrnings.His last name is Anatolle. I think thats how you spell it.Had the site saved on another computer but it crashed:eek:.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Well, you better believe it's gonna be one heck of a ride. Right now I plan on using a couple 2" diameter boring bars. One will be about 6 feet long, and I am hoping the other will be 9-10 feet long. The shorter one will be for hollowing a couple feet deep, and the long one for the rest.

As for safety, I am definitely gonna proceed with caution. The log is setting next to my lathe. It's a good 350-400 lbs of 12" diameter crooked cherry. So spinning an out of balance 6 foot log that heavy on only a 1500-2000 pound lathe certainly makes me a little nervous.

BUT......I also can spin it at about 30 rpms, which would be ridiculously tedious, but if I have to go that route for safety I will.

Hutch

P.S. Anatoly Tsiris.....yeah, he's got it figured out. He's done 7 foot hollow forms. Hmm.....maybe someday.

[Nathan Hawkes]

Matt, I happened upon this picture looking for a picture of the small handheld Glaser hollowing rig that isn't made anymore. Frank Sudol had a pretty amazing hollowing system of his own which is much more up your alley:

http://sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=152408&stc=1&d=1275697374

[David DeCristoforo]

Here's another guy who likes to turn "big stuff"..

http://www.virgiltreeart.com/Welcome/tabid/377/Default.aspx

[Paul Douglass]

i'm think'n you attach a cutting tool to the and of a backhole.....

[Jake Helmboldt]

Here's another guy who likes to turn "big stuff"..

http://www.virgiltreeart.com/Welcome/tabid/377/Default.aspx

"Big stuff" - there is an understatement! Did you see the size of the chuck that guy uses? :eek: That is just sick!

Hutch, he even has your forklift to load the blank on the lathe.

[Matt Hutchinson]

If I'm not mistaken, he also has my lathe. It would be so sweet to own an Oliver #26. :D

[Gary Conklin]

There is a guy here in Charlotte NC that doe's it all the time.He is has a web site to show his trrnings.His last name is Anatolle. I think thats how you spell it.Had the site saved on another computer but it crashed:eek:.


http://www.anatolytsiris.com/?page_id=28

[Jeff Nicol]

Hutch, Just to add to what we have been dicsussing in PM's , the biggest thing is to have more weight outside the hollow form. This compensates for the leverage as the length over the tool rest gets greater as you go deeper. I don't have a captured system yet so I use the right tools and try not to take too much wood each pass. There is a guy in Hawaii that uses some very long handles on his tools and that is the key to keeping ahead of the whole deep hollowing operation. Since you are going to have a fairly large opening that you will be hollowing through so you will be able to get a tool rest made to go into the throat to keep you as close to the cutting tool as possible.

We will all get you to the end of your dream, I believe you have a good idea of hollowing out the bottom too, this will mean that you may only have to hollow the top about 3' or so.

E-mails later.

Jeff

[Mike McAfee]

Since you are going to have a fairly large opening that you will be hollowing through so you will be able to get a tool rest made to go into the throat to keep you as close to the cutting tool as possible.
Jeff

I was wondering if that was an option! I only dream of turning in the LARGE at this point but hope to make it a reality some day!

Good luck with the project and I'll look forward to the updates!

MMc

[David DeCristoforo]

Thans for the link. Interesting stuff and without a doubt LARGE. But, at the risk of being arrogant, I don't really like most of these forms. They seem somewhat graceless to me even though the scale is impressive.

[Cathy Schaewe]

this will mean that you may only have to hollow the top about 3' or so.


Jeff

Wow. :eek:

[alex carey]

David I completely agree, both the links lead to very impressive work as far as size goes, but the shapes they make generally don't work for me either.

[Neil Strong]

.... There is a guy in Hawaii that uses some very long handles on his tools and that is the key to keeping ahead of the whole deep hollowing operation.

Jeff, I think the turner is Elmer Adams. There is a series of videos on YouTube. A good starting point here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tPSwy6wiDvI&feature=PlayList&p=95E3B53799A3775C&playnext_from=PL&playnext=1&index=18). Why anyone would think Soren Berger has a hard accent to understand beats me....:D

....

[Thomas Canfield]

You might look at Elmer Adams website www.elmeradams.com . He is a turner of big urns on the Big Island. I have enjoyed seeing his work there and it is bigl. He has some description also.

[James Combs]

Here's another guy who likes to turn "big stuff"..

http://www.virgiltreeart.com/Welcome/tabid/377/Default.aspx

When I got into turning just a few months ago I didn't realize it could lead to forklifts and chain hoists.:eek: Oh my oh my. Hey LOML your going to have to sell a few more pies.:D

[Jeff Nicol]

Hutch, Here are a few that I need to get finished one of these days, the range from 16" up to around 28". They are good sized and yours will be huge in comparison, but I have hollowed these all out with out a captured system and not that large of tools. I do have the 6' long 1 1/4" steel harpoon that I use for the real deep areas but most are done with a 4' long old pry bar that I have retrofited with different cutters. I like the feel of what I am working on and that lets me know what the cutter is doing and if I need to change the angle or speed or whatever may affect the cutting happening. It will all come together and the monster will come to life!

Jeff

[Matt Hutchinson]

So now that the hollowing rig has been delivered, the piece has finally been started.

1) I started by figuring out where exactly I wanted the axis of rotation to be. For this piece to turn out the way I envision it, the axis angles across the log away from the concave curve. I then trimmed the ends and drilled holes to locate the centers.


2) After lifting the log one end at a time onto the lathe, I 'cribbed' it up until the centers aligned. A friend was there to help me with this.


3 and 4) To attach the log at the headstock I drilled a 1.5" hole 3/4" deep, followed by a 1.375" hole 1" deep that would engage the spindle threads.


Once everything was attached securely, I manually gave it a spin. Man oh man, talk about weight being to one side. The thing dropped to the heavy side like a rock. I was nervous to say the least.

Oh the apprehension......would it actually work?

[Matt Hutchinson]

So I decided to put the thing under power. I put it on the slowest speed, about 40 rpms, stood the side and threw the switch. AND......the slippery leather belt couldn't get enough friction on the wooden wheels to overcome the log's inertia.....lol. My friend and I had to hold the logs weight at the top of its swing, then let go and throw the switch to kinda "kick start" the operation.

IT WORKED! At that speed, not a bit of movement could be felt in the machine.

1) I proceeded then to make the first cuts. Holy cow it was slow. So tedious that I couldn't take it.

2) I then decided to trim away more material with my chainsaw, kick up the speed to 120 rpms, and give it a try. I was a little uneasy, but the lathe only had a gentle sway to it.

3) And the real cutting began. Definitely a bumpy ride at first, but much better than at the super slow speed.

4) I continued cutting until it was at a point where it was ready for my photographer. Tomorrow he will be taking action shots of the process.

I then reveled in the awesomeness of what was happening. I am so excited and can't wait to fire it up again tomorrow morning!! Here's a short video I shot of the spinning piece.

ArtPrize Piece Roughout (http://s337.photobucket.com/albums/n389/hyperhutch/ArtPrize%202010/?action=view&current=MOV04595.mp4)

Hutch

[Baxter Smith]

Impressive looking pieces! Looks like a whole different kind of turning!

[John Keeton]

Hutch, you got GUTS!!

[John Hart]

I am so impressed. We need more.:)

[Harvey Ghesser]

cajones!:D:D

[Bill Bolen]

Yup. big 'ole brass un's

[Nate Davey]

Would a telescoping arm work? Maybe three successive diameters?

[Allen Neighbors]

A rig like Anatole's would be nice, Hutch!
Yep, great big brass cajones. :D

[Matt Hutchinson]

LOL.....

I find that I am totally comfortable working on the base (the headstock end), but today I worked my way down to the tailstock. Let me just say that I made sure my knees were bent, my weight was balanced, and I was staring very alertly at the log lunging at me every half second. (Ok, a little slower than that.)

Actually, I am thinking I should put a vertical bar running from floor to ceiling on that end. The live center is a MT# 3 metal working cone center that is into the wood about an inch, but that's the only thing I have to rely on. I think I may go to the plumbing store and see what kind of galvanized pipe I can get ahold of.

The outside of the vase is pretty close to its final form. I took it off the spindle today so that it would not get too rusty. I don't think I will be working on it for a couple days. I have to go get the materials for making the boring bars and drill and tap them for the tools, etc...


Hutch

[Matt Hutchinson]

Nate,

Just wait until you get a closer look at the hollowing rig Jeff Nicol just made me. There just may be some such feature at my disposal.....

The plot thickens 'n stuff........Muahaha!


Masked and Caped Hutch

[Nate Davey]

Anxiously awaiting, ever thought about a time lapsed video?

[Matt Hutchinson]

I think I may have to save that for another project. It would be really fun though.

Right now I have so much stuff to work on: this project, my "weekly selling" small stuff, a couple sewing stations (flatwork), plus needing to work on a website, new business cards, portfolio, etc....... And then there's the landscaping, refinishing the oak house trim, etc..... And of course I'm behind on roughing out stock, blanking out logs......

Yeah, my brain is ready to explode right now. :eek: Too bad humans need sleep. :D

Hutch

[Nathan Hawkes]

LOL.....

I find that I am totally comfortable working on the base (the headstock end), but today I worked my way down to the tailstock. Let me just say that I made sure my knees were bent, my weight was balanced, and I was staring very alertly at the log lunging at me every half second. (Ok, a little slower than that.)
Actually, I am thinking I should put a vertical bar running from floor to ceiling on that end. The live center is a MT# 3 metal working cone center that is into the wood about an inch, but that's the only thing I have to rely on. I think I may go to the plumbing store and see what kind of galvanized pipe I can get ahold of.
Hutch


Matt, I'm so impressed! Also, I'm curious; how much does that lathe weigh, approximately? I've weighted down my Powermatic with about 550lbs of ballast. I can still make it vibrate, but not nearly like it did before. It doesn't try and walk anymore. As far as your vertical pipe, do you mean for it to be a guard? I'm confused. Also, do you mean to put the pipe into the wood like a bushing to increase the holding capacity of the live center? That's what it sounded like. Really good idea, by the way. I may have to try that one for a locust log I want to make a hollow form from.

[Matt Hutchinson]

The machine weighs at least 1500 lbs. It may be as much as 1 ton. It's pretty difficult to get this lathe rocking/walking with any kind of reasonably balanced work. I think that in addition to its mass, it's base size, and the weight at the headstock end play a major role in its stability when turning faceplate work. I am actually pretty surprised at how stable it is for this project given the kind of weight being thrown at the tailstock end.

Yes, the pipe (at least 2") would be used as a guard. It would be attached to the wall, floor and ceiling if I make it. But I am thinking now that I have it round, I will just put the hollowing steady rest on and use it as the guard/support. I still haven't quite decided which I prefer.

As for the tail center, part of my original plan was to have a steel plate bolted onto the log with a large hole that the cone center could seat in. But after taking a closer look at the log, and letting it spin a few times, I felt there was enough structural integrity to hold safely. However, I think having a plate would be best.

Hutch

[Jeff Bower]

Hutch, this is great stuff! :eek: Looking forward to more pics, vids, etc.

[Rich Aldrich]

Hutch, you got GUTS!!


+1 The same thing came to mind. Very impressive.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Ok, so I have been hard at work this week dealing with a multitude of issues with this piece. Luckily none of those issues pertain to safety; all is well.

Photo 1.) Roughing out the form.

Photo 2.) Truing the end of the log to prepare it for the faceplate. As you can see, I employed a pattern maker's tool setup. I wasn't about to try it manually using a scraper! :eek:

Photo 3.) Here is the perfectly flat and square end.

Photo 4.) The outside form is complete!

Photo 5.) Faceplate attached and ready for mounting. This was a used item purchased online, originally for an atlas lathe. It's 8" in diameter, no holed, 5/8" thick. Well, I drilled my own holes of course. :)


Here's another video, but no turning is shown. It's more of an explanation of what's been going on.

Cherry Log Vase Part 2 (http://s337.photobucket.com/albums/n389/hyperhutch/ArtPrize%202010/?action=view&current=MOV04623.mp4)

Evidently when shooting this video I felt that the word "neat" was the proper word for describing everything. :rolleyes:

Hutch

[Matt Hutchinson]

So, as mentioned in the video, the sapwood of the log changed to a very muddy color unexpectedly fast. Not only that, but it went throughout the sapwood as well. No matter how much I turned away, the color remained constant. BUMMER! (Nearly ran out of the shop I was so upset.) That was pretty much the point of using cherry....contrasting colors.

So here's my solution that proved to be successful. I bleached it! I protected the heartwood from getting bleach on it by applying shellac along the grain line between the heartwood and sapwood. I then coated the rest of the heartwood as well. I used 2 part wood bleach, and applied it twice. It worked like a charm!

Photo 1.) You can see the results of the bleaching. It looks natural as can be! WHEW!

Photo 2.) Now it's reversed, and ready to have the foot hollowed. Pictured is a 6' long x 1.375" diameter boring bar.

Hutch

[Nate Davey]

That looks awesome Hutch. Can't wait to see the finished vase.

[Jeff Nicol]

Hutch, It looks as though you are getting your creation worked out and the stuff I did for you is withstanding the load! It all looks real good bolted up and in use!

To answer some of the questions on Matt's lathe, it is a beast to say the least! It is well made and it wonderful shape for its age, I would love to have its brother to add to my collection of turning apparatus!

Great progress and keep us all posted on your artful journey,

Jeff

[Matt Hutchinson]

While I am waiting for a friend to help me move the vase around, here's the latest progress.

Photo 1.) For the initial hollowing of the foot, I used a D handle trapped bar setup. I started out with a carbide cutter, but it was way too slow. So I then switched to a drill bit cutter.

Photo 2.) Here a picture of the double ended insert that goes into the end of the big boring bars. For the hogging out I use it with the drill bit, and for smoothing and final thicknessing I use the carbide cutter. (Carbide cutter not attached in the picture.)

Photo 3.) Here's a closeup of the drill bit cutter. It's ground back not unlike a bowl gouge, leaving a curved edge that acts as a hook tool. Awesome tool, got the idea from Jeff Nicol.

Photo 4.) Here's the carbide cutter. This is with it installed in the trapped bar system, not the big boring bar.

Photo 5.) This is the completed foot. (I switched over to the 6 foot bar once I got in about 10 inches.) Well, it's got further work after the rest of the piece is done. Later I will carve away the tenon and thickness the walls by hand.

This video has a segment at the end where I actually do a little hollowing.

Cherry Log Vase Video 3 (http://s337.photobucket.com/albums/n389/hyperhutch/ArtPrize%202010/?action=view&current=CherryLogVaseVideo3.mp4)

Hutch

P.S. I have this video posted other places, that's why I speak of Jeff Nicol as "another turner". Of course, ya'll already know him. :D

[Jeff Nicol]

Hutch, It looks like you are making some progress on the beast. When do you have to have it finished? You may have to sleep in the shop, do you think your darling wife will miss you? Are you getting any of the honey do list done on the house, or are you ignoring it like me!!

Keep plugging along,

Jeff

[Matt Hutchinson]

Hehe, yeah, the old house is last on the list.

The vase is scheduled to be installed Sept. 15. Right now I plan on having it completely thicknessed sometime next week. It's dry enough that I think the moisture content will come down easily. (As an interesting side note, the kiln dried poplar I have in my shop is reading 11-12% MC. Talk about a humid July!!)

Here's the latest.

Photo 1.) Chucked up in the honkin' jaws.

Photo 2.) Started power carving. I was using an Arbortech with a carbide cutting wheel.

Photo 3.) Done with the carving.

At this point I turned on the lathe and withdrew the tailstock. 'Twas a bit sketchy. After a little tweaking, things seemed to be rolling a little better, and then I noticed something. The headstock was nice and still, the tailstock was nice and still, but the steady rest was swaying. And no, it wasn't in the rest itself; the huge cast ways were swaying!!! (Rather slightly I might add.) The steady rest is attached about dead center along the length, so if there were to be any flex that's where it would be. I am going to truss up that part of the machine with some 2x4s, and it should be rock solid at that point. *fingers crossed*


Hutch

[Roger Chandler]

Gee whiz Hutch,

That whole project is a very dynamic undertaking, and it looks like you are actually going to pull it off! The work so far is just stunning, and I can't hardly wait till you have it finished.

Thank you very much for sharing this whole process with this forum group through pictures and your explanations that describe the steps along the way. You make the creative juices start flowing for us all!

[Barry Stratton]

Great stuff Hutch, keep it coming!

IS the carving to speed up the hollowing process??

[Matt Hutchinson]

Thanks all!

The carving is actually serving several purposes.

1.) Safety. Trying to hollow the piece with the full weight intact and only having support from the hollowing steady rest would be putting myself at unnecessary risk.

2.) Speed. It actually was probably faster to carve it away than turn it away, due to the nature of the off center mounting.

3.) Easier. Hollowing that flying wing would be extremely difficult. The wood would hit the cutter every half second, and it would be near impossible to maintain a smooth curve even with the extra heavy boring bars. With that, safety is again an issue. If I accidentally position the tool to take too heavy of a cut, I could get a horrific catch. Just too much air, too slow, too far over the rest.

I will be hollowing up the"wing" as far as seems safe. I plan on thicknessing the rest by hand.

Hutch

[John M. Smith]

Do you know where in GR your vase will be displayed? Can't wait to see it in person.

John

[Matt Hutchinson]

It will displayed in the Grand Rapids Public Museum starting Sept. 20 and ending after the first week in October. So only about 3 weeks.

Hutch

[Matt Hutchinson]

I have just finished using the 6' bar and have switched over to the 10 foot boring bar. I am currently working at 26" over the tool rest, and things are still going fairly smoothly. It won't be long until I need yet another bar. The bottom of the vase is at 51" over the tool rest, but I don't think that is gonna work. I will probably have to go to a welding shop and have them re-work the extension arm I had originally planned on using for this project. The intent was to have a rest that reaches into the vessel a good 16", but in its current state it's useless (no fault of Jeff Nicol). Also, I am guessing I will have to have the next bar at about 2.5" in diameter.


Here's a video:

Cherry Log Vase Video 4 (http://s337.photobucket.com/albums/n389/hyperhutch/ArtPrize%202010/?action=view&current=HollowingPart1.mp4)

Hutch

[David E Keller]

Thanks for the video and the update. I'm afraid that looks like work to me. I keep thinking,"1/4 inch per pass times the number of inches equals a hell of a lot of hollowing".:eek:

How are you keeping everything from cracking? I always hear that cherry is difficult to keep from cracking, but the piece looks crack free to me.

[Matt Hutchinson]

It's actually more like 1/8" per pass at this point. Every time I try to take more off, I get intense chatter. So yeah, I will be at this for the rest of the week. :rolleyes:

I have never had any issues with cracking on any of my cherry pieces, but this particular project is a more a-typical example. (This is black cherry. Actual fruit trees may be more unstable.) I had the outside of the vase unsealed for about a week: no cracking. The high humidity certainly helps.

Hutch

[David E Keller]

So...

5 feet tall
x 12 inches per foot
x 8 passes per inch
___________________
480 passes with the tool!:eek:

You're a better man than I am for doing it! It's this kind of thinking that keeps me from segmenting work as well(that and a general lack of skill).

[Baxter Smith]

Neat video. 480 x how many seconds per pass. No I didn't go back and time it.:) Thanks for taking the time to record and post. Very interesting!

[Barry Stratton]

Anxiously awaiting updates! Please tell us this is progressing nicely...:confused:

[Matt Hutchinson]

Yeah, so I've been little lazy on the updates recently. I have been a little burned out. :)

Everything has gone ok, but the ride got very difficult in the last 10 inches. The piece has a bunch of knots at that point. So I had to hack my way through 4 long knots at 42" to 51" over the toolrest. NO FUN! But the walls are where I want them now, even though the inside surface isn't very smooth. I guess I will just have to sand the daylights out of it.

Photo 1.) Here's the beginning of the hollowing.

Photo 2.) I quickly ran into knots towards the rim. I had no idea they were there. Fun little surprises.....KNOT!

Photo 3.) Here's the boring bar I used to do the last 14" or so. It's 2.125" diameter x 10.5' long. At 130 lbs, it didn't get taken out of the rig much.

Photo 4.) And it's done-ish.

Photo 5.) Here's a better look down the center. At over four feet away, working the bottom proved challenging....just a bit.


At this point I am thicknessing the upper rim by hand using carving tools and a caliper. Also, I am cleaning up the inner surface manually using an IBEX curved sole plane, a micro plane, and a heavy round scraper (card scraper). My small amount of experience violin making is coming in really handy right now.

Thanks!

Hutch

[Steve Schlumpf]

Very impressive Matt! Looking forward to seeing it finished!

[David DeCristoforo]

Matt, I've been watching this project with no small level of interest. What a project. I'll bet that last ten inches was a bumpy ride! It's... well... bitchin! Can I say that here? I guess the mods will let me know! But one way or the other, I love those large pieces. My equipment is no where near heavy enough for a project like this and even though my determination (stubbornness) might be up to the task, I'm sure my skill level would be no wheres near sufficient. SS said "impressive". Actually he said "very impressive". Still an understatement.

[Andy Hoyt]

Actually, David. The word is spelled "bitchin"

And you're right, it is bitchin.

[David DeCristoforo]

"...The word is spelled "bitchin"..."

Oops. Sorry about that. Fixed. It's the only word I can use to describe this vase...

[Neil Strong]

Photo 3.) Here's the boring bar I used to do the last 14" or so. It's 2.125" diameter x 10.5' long. At 130 lbs, it didn't get taken out of the rig much.



The mother of all boring bars... what a tool!

Your the deep hollowing man, Matt.

Looking forward to see a photo of you standing next the finished piece.

.....

[Jeff Nicol]

Hutch, When I delivered the steady and saw the log laying next to the lathe, I was not sure how it would all come out. But now I see your artistic mind and desire to fulfill the dream have won the battle so far! I have an Idea that may work to help you stablize the boring bar deeper so you can do some finer scraping cuts to smooth things out. I will sketch up a picture and send it to you.

Great job so far!

Keep plugging away and say hi to your lovely bride, I am sure she has felt a little neglected or jealous of the monster vase! My wife says that my lathes are my girlfriends and get more attention than she does!!

Take care,

Jeff

[Tim Rinehart]

I must say, looking at the video of you hollowing down the top end, with that huge wing swinging around...made me dizzy just watching the video! My wife commented similarly.
Looks great, you've done extremely well with that piece. Also can't wait to see done and you standing by it.

Something tells me...this isn't the last of big turnings from you now!

[Matt Hutchinson]

Thanks all! I am very excited about how it's coming along.

Yeah, I figure now that I have this setup I will be trying a few larger projects at times. I don't imagine I will be doing a lot of HUGE stuff like this one, but who knows, maybe I'll get lucky and pick up a commission or something. :)

Hutch

[David E Keller]

I keep thinking this project is the woodturning equivalent of a marathon! You are to be commended for you efforts(or committed for relative insanity!):D

[Jeff Bower]

Matt....I can't take it anymore....I need a fix...:eek:

Do you have any update for us?? :)

[Joe Wiliams]

Matt....I can't take it anymore....I need a fix...:eek:

Do you have any update for us?? :)
I wonder if he got stuck inside of it....:p

[Thomas Canfield]

Matt,

That is quite a project and it looks like you have things pretty well under control. After watching the video (without sound) and not keeping up with your previous postings, I would still offer two suggestions. 1. You should get a remote switch to use down at the extended tool bar location for safety purposes. 2. You might consider some guide or keeper bars on the tool rest to keep the bar in position and prevent it slipping off end of tool bar.

[Matt Hutchinson]

I have been taking a little break from the project, but I'm back at it now. I should have some new pics soonish. Right now I am continuing to refine the inside by hand, soon to move on to sanding. Also, I have had it off the lathe for the last couple weeks, and it only weighs about 15 pounds (if that). Fun times.....but the pressure is on with only 16 days until installation.



That is quite a project and it looks like you have things pretty well under control. After watching the video (without sound) and not keeping up with your previous postings, I would still offer two suggestions. 1. You should get a remote switch to use down at the extended tool bar location for safety purposes. 2. You might consider some guide or keeper bars on the tool rest to keep the bar in position and prevent it slipping off end of tool bar.

I actually thought about both of these issues. The safety switch I truly wish I had. It will definitely be in place before I attempt any other large scale work. As for the rest issue, the piece was so narrow on the inside that with the pivot in place (a piece of oak clamped to the rig) there was no way it could drop off the rest (in either direction). The only time this could have happened was when I was entering the work space or withdrawing the tool. Even then, the mass of the bar is so great that significant lateral force was the only way it would fall off. With the "lighter" duty bars it is of more concern, but they are still quite massive. That said, I do plan on having a few rests welded up which will have retaining features.


Hutch

[Jeff Bower]

Thanks for the update Hutch. I look forward to seeing the finished piece!

[Matt Hutchinson]

I am going insane. Install is in less than two days, and the finishes are giving me fits. Let's hope the "finish curing" elves are working overtime.

Go go gadget energy boost.......

Anywho, here's some more photos.

Photo 1.) Here's the 2" sanding pad on the "lighter" 10 foot bar. I simply drilled another hole in the dual use cutter tip and used the same set screw. It worked great!

Photo 2.) Here's the inside, formerly very VERY rough, now smooth. I made my own 36 grit sanding discs by cutting a course sanding belt into circles, applying spray adhesive to it's back and the face of a 320g loop backed disc, and then pressing together after the adhesive dried. It tore through those knots like they were nuthin'!! The 80 grit discs weren't doing squat. I never thought I would EVER use 36 grit on a woodturning, but then again, those knots were ridiculously hard.

Photo 3.) The rim is finally thicknessed, and man were my hands tired. My arms look like Popeye's now. Glad that's over.

Photo 4.) Another view of the bark edge

Photo 5.) And here's the general idea of that the piece will look like on exhibit. Too bad my camera is a piece of junk, but you get the idea despite the blurriness. The base shown is only a mock-up I used to determine proper proportions. I am currently painting the real one.

Photos of the completed piece should be coming within a few days.

Hutch

P.S. Just as a heads up, paint from the big blue box store must have really high latex content. It feels kinda rubber-tacky to the touch and fine dust just sticks to it like crazy, leaving white smudges everywhere. Not cool.....

[Jim Underwood]

This is when you need a big microwave oven...:eek:

[Neil Strong]

Hope that plinth is low enough so that the average height person can peep inside....:)

All the best Matt for the run to the finish line (no pun intended). And, if it doesn't dry in time it won't be the first painting or sculpture that has been exhibited that way...:D

.....

[David E Keller]

That looks fantastic, Matt. I'd love to know the finished dimensions when it's all said and done. Being that it's cherry, it'll just get prettier as time goes by. Looking forward to seeing the finished piece.

[David DeCristoforo]

Like I said... bitchin! But that particle board box is totally not bitchin. Get it off of there right away... please!

[Baxter Smith]

[QUOTE=Matt Hutchinson;1512210]

The 80 grit discs weren't doing squat. I never thought I would EVER use 36 grit on a woodturning, but then again, those knots were ridiculously hard.

QUOTE]

That looks awsome! I bought a whole bunch of various grits of sandpaper at a hardware store auction 20 years ago. There were about a 100 sheets of 36 grit in there. Only used it for getting rust off used steel until I started turning. Have made a few sanding/shaping discs myself!

[Matt Hutchinson]

Ok, now that I finally have my website up, and we're past the first day of the ArtPrize event, and can actually get to updating this thread.

The last week before install was terrible. I had so many finishing issues it was ridiculous. I even pulled an all-nighter working 27 out of 30 hrs......with unacceptable results. Needless to say, that was a tough day emotionally. Luckily I was able to have my install date pushed back a couple days. The funny thing is, I probably wouldn't have had the issues if I would have known I had the extra couple days of cure time! Ah, the joys of working within time constraints.

After the first night of voting (the public votes for which art they like, and that artist wins the $$$), I was in the Top 100 for a while (out of over 1700 pieces)!!! I dropped down this morning, but that is still cool to think that I am likely in the top 10 percent!!

Here are the pics of the finished piece.

Thanks for all the support and encouragement!

Hutch

P.S. I will keep you updated if my rating rises. There may be as many as 50,000 people viewing it this weekend!!! They expect around 100,000 visitors over the course of the 3 weeks!

[Tim Rinehart]

I think you did a great job on this challenging piece. The light hitting the inside really shows off the finish and wood.
You should be proud of this one, as I'm sure you are.

Thanks for keeping us posted, I know I've looked forward to progress updates along the way.

[Michael E. Thompson]

Hutch,

I have been watching the progress of the project, and gotta say, quite impressive. You should be quite proud. Fabulous work! Best of luck with the show.

[Ray Bell]

Great job on a spectacular piece Matt. I hope folk seeing this in person realize what a challenge this was from start to finish.

[Scott Hackler]

Matt this piece is fantastic and the size wasnt truely known (to me) until seeing your picture standing next to it. WOW!!! Its too bad there isnt a way to get judged partially for teh amount of difficulty and time spent... you'ld likely win the event then!

Whats next, a 8' vase! Congrats again.

[David E Keller]

That's awesome! I love the finished piece, and I wish you the best of luck on the $$$.

[David DeCristoforo]

It's awesome. I noticed from the placard visible in the first pic that you're going by Matthew now instead of Matt. That should increase the selling price substantially!

[Gary Conklin]

Awesome and congrats on the WOW cover pic!!

[Matt Hutchinson]

Thanks all!

I am very proud of the piece but I am also very happy to be done. It really has consumed me for the last 3 months. Now that my lathe is free, I can start working on other pieces that I've been itching to finish. :D

Hutch

[John Keeton]

Hutch, congrats on getting the WoW cover!! Well deserved!

[Baxter Smith]

Very Pretty. Very Impressive. Pretty Impressive! I am looking forward to seeing your next creation!:)

[Robert McGowen]

Just to throw myself into the crowd of accolades, that is a totally cool piece. I am sure that it will lead to other things for you, so get ready for the phone calls!

[Pete Jordan]

Wow Matt!!!

I am so glad you got it finished in one piece!

I would have voted for you.

[Matt Hutchinson]

Thanks everyone! This weekend has been absolutely crazy. Downtown Grand Rapids was filled with thousands of people from all over the country, and it was really cool to be there with my piece to talk and hear comments.

It's been very exciting and overwhelming, as the response to this piece has been unexpected. I have been hearing things like, "I really wanted to see the big vase" and "I am really tired from walking around all day, but I had to make it here to see this vase." I wouldn't have imagined all this in my wildest dreams!

Thanks again!

Hutch

[Jeff Nicol]

Hutch, since you set the bar high, now the next creations must be bigger, badder and outrageous! You did a wonderful job on your first attempt at a big turning and for a huge public veiwing too! Now if the right buyer comes along.....will some more get done on the honey do list? Or will the shop be improved?

Good luck and I am glas I played a small part in the journey,

Jeff

[Matt Hutchinson]

Hehe, if the right buyer comes along I'll finally be getting the shop sealed for winter, then the house projects. :)

Hutch