Anyone know a good bike repair forum?

[Dan Mitchell]

Getting an infuriating noise from my Trek hybrid, anyone happen to know of an especially good bicycle repair forum?

[Chuck Wintle]

a few how to repair videos...
http://bicycletutor.com/




not sure if this is what you need though.

[Mike Cutler]

Dan

I don't know of a good repair forum, but I put over 200K miles on a bike in my cycling carrer and worked in a shop part time. If you can describe the noise, I'll try to help you.
If the noise is coming from the crankset, a squeak or a click, remove both pedal arms, clean the bottom bracket spindle and re-install the crank arms making sure not to re-install them in the same orientation relative to the bottom bracket spindle, advance them 90 degrees to make new metal to metal contact.
If it continues, you'll need to remove the bottom bracket, clean all threads, re-lube the bearings, and re-install using teflon tape on the bottom bracket cup threads. ( the thread on the crank arm side of the bottom bracket is reversed. )

Some folks will say to just tighten up the crank arm bolts, but I advise against it without doing a cleaning and inspection first. Done improperly the inner surfaces of the crank arms have to be repolished eventually.

Unless a part is physically broken, or something needs tuning. It's an odds on bet that a thorough disassembly and cleaning will correct most squeaks, creaks, clicks and groans. Well maybe not the groans from the rider.:)

Mike

[Ed Harrow]

Then there is the clicking pedal syndrome... or, way worse, the cracked stem noise. :eek:

Imagine you're listening to Tom and Ray; imitate the sound, then figure out how to put that in words, or maybe a you-tube video. It would be nice to know what you are doing when you hear the noise, too.

[Mike Cutler]

Then there is the clicking pedal syndrome... or, way worse, the cracked stem noise. :eek:.


Yeah, that's a bad one.
A funny story;
I was pedaling over to a Port-O-Let, in the parking lot where the race started, right before I was supposed to start a time trial and my steering tube snapped.
I ended up borrowing a friend's, spectator, cheesy IronMan Centurion. Threw an aero bar on it, swapped my seat, and tried to swap pedals, but his were rusted in place. So I took my cleats off my bike shoes and taped my feet to his pedals along with his rat traps, ala Dave Stolts in Breaking Away".
I took an Allen Multi tool with me and took off. I was still adjusting the aerobars when I passed my minute man. He looked over at me and laughed and said. "Aren't you supposed to do that before the race?".
I actually did pretty good on that Ironman bike that day. It's a good memory.

[Keith Outten]

You cannot post links to any forum here per our Terms of Service.
.

[Dan Mitchell]

You cannot post links to any forum here per our Terms of Service.
.

Even when it's on a totally unrelated matter??? Really seems a little extreme, Keith.

[Dan Mitchell]

Dan

I don't know of a good repair forum, but I put over 200K miles on a bike in my cycling carrer and worked in a shop part time. If you can describe the noise, I'll try to help you.

Thanks Mike, the noise actually sounds very much like what you may recall as a kid, when someone was riding with their kickstand loose & it got tapped by the pedal every revolution. A bit lighter than that, buts similar.

Which explains in part why it's so bloody EMBARRASSING! :D

I took the bottom bracket apart, actually had to use an impact wrench on one side, which was a bit unnerving since it's a left-hand thread (I was 99% sure) but MAN was it tight. Here's the bearing. I'm assuming this thing has to be replaced as a unit, instead of just have some nice cleanable, repackable bearings?

If it does have to be replaced as a unit, any idea the part cost, off hand?

Thanks!

152448

[Dan Mitchell]

a few how to repair videos...
http://bicycletutor.com/




not sure if this is what you need though.

Thanks Charles, PM'd you.

Dan

[Keith Outten]

Even when it's on a totally unrelated matter??? Really seems a little extreme, Keith.

We prohibit links to other forums because they often contain language that is inappropriate for Members of this Community. A very large number of our woodworkers here are under the legal age or people who prefer not to be subjected to raunchy behavior and flaming. If we don't allow it here we certainly don't want to link to it here. Since our Moderators are already busy it isn't possible to ask them to chase links to verify if they suitable for everyone in this Community.

Concerning links, we rely on advertising to pay the bills and keep the majority of our forums open for everyone to enjoy for free. In the past we were less stringent but these days with the terrible economy it is more difficult to attract advertisers which are our primary source of income. Links in our Forums are very valuable, in a nutshell they are what makes The Creek attractive to advertisers. Banner ads are more than just graphics at the top of the screen, the banner links are a very large reason why companies will sponsor banner ads here. If you give away my primary source of revenue then it makes it impossible to pay the bills. Note that many companies will not support or be associated with public forums that promote immature behavior, flaming and online brawls. I don't blame them for protecting their good names and reputations they have worked hard to establish.

Our Terms of Service clearly states that we allow you to provide a link if it adds to the discussion. This also means that you can't build a discussion around a link for the purpose of financial gain or promotion. Whenever a new thread is started, particularly by someone who has just registered, and the thread contains a link and a question about a particular company or service the odds are that the thread will be removed. Those of you who have been Members of this Community for a long time are given more lee-way than someone who is new here. Because I know you and you have been active here for a long time I am less stringent or possibly just more trusting that you are not here to use our resources for financial gain. Often I will just edit the link if I feel it has merit and remove just enough to make it inactive and leave enough for someone to be able to visit the source if they prefer.

Links to Blogs and other personal web sites other than the ones we host here are no longer allowed. Some people enjoy financial gain from advertising on their Blogs, this is the primary reason why we will not allow links to these sites.
If someone wants to promote their Blog site they can join our Friends of The Creek Directory, this produces revenue that supports SawMill Creek and at the same time keeps their commercials out of our woodworking forums.

Active links, those that you can click on, are valuable because the Google Bots pick up the links and it promotes the source of the link. Because The Creek averages one and a half million hits per day links here are worth money and that my friends is how we pay the bills.

I prefer to leave our TOS as it is and not remove your ability to post links here because they are often very valuable to a particular discussion. I have asked our Staff to be more diligent watching for links that are either an abuse of our resources or that are not pertinent to a discussion. Please help us out, your support will help us to keep The Creek from becoming polluted, abused and to keep our forums online for everyone to enjoy.

Think of SawMill Creek as a comfortable workshop that you get to visit and enjoy time with your friends. If the group who visited before you left trash everywhere it wouldn't take long before it ceased to be the place you enjoy visiting and your friends will be long gone. This is your Community, you each have a responsibility to help with the chores.

[Chuck Wintle]

Thanks Mike, the noise actually sounds very much like what you may recall as a kid, when someone was riding with their kickstand loose & it got tapped by the pedal every revolution. A bit lighter than that, buts similar.

Which explains in part why it's so bloody EMBARRASSING! :D

I took the bottom bracket apart, actually had to use an impact wrench on one side, which was a bit unnerving since it's a left-hand thread (I was 99% sure) but MAN was it tight. Here's the bearing. I'm assuming this thing has to be replaced as a unit, instead of just have some nice cleanable, repackable bearings?

If it does have to be replaced as a unit, any idea the part cost, off hand?

Thanks!

152448
Dan,

The bottom bracket can be bought online from many places and the prices range from low to very high depending the type and brand. From the photo in the previous post what are the numbers on the cartridge and is it Italian thread or British thread?

[John Coloccia]

We prohibit links to other forums because they often contain language that is inappropriate for Members of this Community. A very large number of our woodworkers here are under the legal age or people who prefer not to be subjected to raunchy behavior and flaming. If we don't allow it here we certainly don't want to link to it here. Since our Moderators are already busy it isn't possible to ask them to chase links to verify if they suitable for everyone in this Community.

Concerning links, we rely on advertising to pay the bills and keep the majority of our forums open for everyone to enjoy for free. In the past we were less stringent but these days with the terrible economy it is more difficult to attract advertisers which are our primary source of income. Links in our Forums are very valuable, in a nutshell they are what makes The Creek attractive to advertisers. Banner ads are more than just graphics at the top of the screen, the banner links are a very large reason why companies will sponsor banner ads here. If you give away my primary source of revenue then it makes it impossible to pay the bills. Note that many companies will not support or be associated with public forums that promote immature behavior, flaming and online brawls. I don't blame them for protecting their good names and reputations they have worked hard to establish.

Our Terms of Service clearly states that we allow you to provide a link if it adds to the discussion. This also means that you can't build a discussion around a link for the purpose of financial gain or promotion. Whenever a new thread is started, particularly by someone who has just registered, and the thread contains a link and a question about a particular company or service the odds are that the thread will be removed. Those of you who have been Members of this Community for a long time are given more lee-way than someone who is new here. Because I know you and you have been active here for a long time I am less stringent or possibly just more trusting that you are not here to use our resources for financial gain. Often I will just edit the link if I feel it has merit and remove just enough to make it inactive and leave enough for someone to be able to visit the source if they prefer.

Links to Blogs and other personal web sites other than the ones we host here are no longer allowed. Some people enjoy financial gain from advertising on their Blogs, this is the primary reason why we will not allow links to these sites.
If someone wants to promote their Blog site they can join our Friends of The Creek Directory, this produces revenue that supports SawMill Creek and at the same time keeps their commercials out of our woodworking forums.

Active links, those that you can click on, are valuable because the Google Bots pick up the links and it promotes the source of the link. Because The Creek averages one and a half million hits per day links here are worth money and that my friends is how we pay the bills.

I prefer to leave our TOS as it is and not remove your ability to post links here because they are often very valuable to a particular discussion. I have asked our Staff to be more diligent watching for links that are either an abuse of our resources or that are not pertinent to a discussion. Please help us out, your support will help us to keep The Creek from becoming polluted, abused and to keep our forums online for everyone to enjoy.

Think of SawMill Creek as a comfortable workshop that you get to visit and enjoy time with your friends. If the group who visited before you left trash everywhere it wouldn't take long before it ceased to be the place you enjoy visiting and your friends will be long gone. This is your Community, you each have a responsibility to help with the chores.

Hmm, so let me see if I've got this straight. What you're saying is links to other forums are OK, right?

Hello...

Is this thing on??

:p

[Mike Cutler]

Dan

That's a pretty rugged Bottom bracket, and it's designed to be replaced as an assembly. Some cost over $250.00, so you learn to take them apart if necessary.
The click, click click noise may be coming from that bottom bracket, but those spindle ends look pretty rough. I'd go after them first.
Polish the spindle end, the flat faces, with emery paper. Also polish the inside of the crank arms with a very fine mill file, or better yet wrap the file with emery paper. the aluminum of the crank arms will ruin your file.
Look inside of each square crankarm hole and see if there is a pronounced ridge, it may appear to look like a curled shaving getting ready to be removed. Make sure you have none of these.
Clean the bottom bracket crank bolt holes,and the crank set bolts. Then prep the bolts with a never seize product or white lithium grease.
Re install the crankarms and thread the bolts in hand tight. Lightly tap the crankarms at the bolt hole with a dead bolt mallet. You're not trying to drive the crankarms onto the spindle. You're just try to match up all the surfaces squarely. Tighten the crankarm bolts to torque, and give it a whirl.

[Randal Stevenson]

You guys can post the forums, just not in a link able manner. AKA no www or by separating the www from the address.

Since this question was looking for a forum for a specific topic that this forum doesn't deal with. This answers the question and follows the rules.

[Mike Cutler]

Dan,

The bottom bracket can be bought online from many places and the prices range from low to very high depending the type and brand. From the photo in the previous post what are the numbers on the cartridge and is it Italian thread or British thread?

Charles

At one time there were three standards for metric. British, French and Italian.
The french standard fell out of favor in the 60's and 70's, but there are still high end bikes from that era around.
The italian standard is pretty much only being upheld here in the US by Campagnolo and the Italian frame makers. Usually very high end frames.
The British standard would be the "norm" for all bikes imported from the asian markets, and most bikes from Europe are British.
I rode Campy for most of my cycling career.Almost all of my bikes were carbon fiber. Except for my TT bike. That was a Cervelo, from Canada.;) ( Not the one I broke. That one was a Kestrel from the US)

[Ed Harrow]

And it could, of course, be just a pedal...

Does it only happen when you are 'working' or does it happen all the time? Always with the crank in the same position? Does it happen if you only pedal with your foot on one pedal or the other (assuming you have clips or whatever)?

Mike's comments re the sides of the crank's taper are spot on.

[Dan Mitchell]

those spindle ends look pretty rough. I'd go after them first.

Thanks Mike. Last night, I put the BB back together with Teflon tape, going on a ride in a bit, I'll see how it goes. Your idea about the spindle ends makes great sense; that will be my next step if the problem presists.

Thank you again,

Dan

[Dan Mitchell]

And it could, of course, be just a pedal...

Does it only happen when you are 'working' or does it happen all the time? Always with the crank in the same position? Does it happen if you only pedal with your foot on one pedal or the other (assuming you have clips or whatever)?

Mike's comments re the sides of the crank's taper are spot on.

I JUST replaced the pedals, which did not make a change, so I don't think it's that. I agree, next step is the crank tapers ;)

Thanks, Ed.

Dan

[Dan Mitchell]

Dan,

The bottom bracket can be bought online from many places and the prices range from low to very high depending the type and brand. From the photo in the previous post what are the numbers on the cartridge and is it Italian thread or British thread?

After I put the thing back together, I thought "shoulda written down those numbers". How dumb was that? I'm guessing I'll have to pull it apart again to finish the tapers as Mike suggests, so I'll get the info then!

Thanks for the reply

Dan

[Ed Harrow]

Status report? At least one curious mind wants to know!

[Dan Mitchell]

Status report? At least one curious mind wants to know!

Ed - I removed the BB one more time, polished up the shaft tapers & mating surfaces of the cranks with emery cloth, oiled the tapers & reinstalled the cranks. The click that has been present since I got the bike (and for which I had the shop where purchased work on the bike at least twice, to no avail) is now gone. Or it least it was on all of my 16 mile ride yesterday. I will keep my fingers crossed though, since my experience in life is that a problem generally reappears shortly after you conclude it has been concurred ;-)

My problem now? My a** is absolutely killing me from the seat (aftermarket Terry "Liberator")! I hadn't ridden in awhile and may have overdone a bit, but even after a week off the bike, it's really sore. Troubling, and likely not as easily fixed as the click! I'm afraid I may not be able to get back on for a month or more! :(

Thanks for your interest.

[Mike Cutler]

Dan

I'm glad that the clicking cleared up. That can really put a damper on what would otherwise be a nice ride.

Saddles, unfortunately, are a trial and error fit that can get pretty expensive over time. I must have had a dozen different saddles at one time in the basement.
Unless something has changed, Terry used to be a womens specific equipment company. I do see that the saddle you have has a mens version on their site.
I used Terry womens saddles on my Time Trial bike because the design of a women's saddle is shorter in length than a mans saddle. This allowed me to move the saddle forward on the rail to change my body geometry, and still maintain a UCI legal setback distance from the nose of the saddle to the bottom bracket. I was only doing 40 Km at a whack though. During normal races and training I used a Selle Italia, Turbo Flite saddle.

I never had luck with any type of a gel saddle. The gel would bubble up and create pressure points that would drive me nuts. PLus they were heavier and caused the bike to sway a little bit more in a sprint.

Check the overall angle of the saddle on your bike. It should be neutral to slightly up at the nose. People erroneously believe that a saddle with a downward angle will be more comfortable and create less pressure on the "parts", but the reverse is true. If the angle is downward the rider will constantly be forcing themself back into the saddle and actually create more pressure.

I'm probably going to be in the same position you are here shortly. I can't road race anymore, but I'm going to break out my Mtn. Bike and start riding with my Vizslas in the woods. I can feel the pain already.:D

[Ed Harrow]

Brooks Professional and lotsa Neats Foot oil. ;) And keep it on the level, as Mike says. For those of more mature years (ie not young and dumb) a pair of chamois-lined shorts help, too.