S-Shaped toolrest for delta 46-460

[JIM HERNANDEZ]

I am new to turning and especially bowl turning. Should I be using an s-shaped toolrest for hollowing out bowls, and if so, which toolrest would you recommend ? Thanks in advance for the advice !

Jim

[John Keeton]

Jim, I got this one (http://www.pennstateind.com/store/CLTSJ.html)from PSI when I first started turning bowls, and would not recommend it at all.
http://www.pennstateind.com/graphics/275px/CLTSJ.jpg

Don't go cheap on this or any other rest. I have not purchased another one yet, but will eventually. I do believe they are very helpful, but a good one would be much MORE helpful!:o

[Joe Wiliams]

John, what didn't you like about that rest? And what should someone look for when selecting a curved rest?

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I have that rest. I think it's okay. I don't know where to get a "better" one for a reasonable price. Since I'm pretty much a newb, I went for cheap. Granted, it's not a great rest, but it is cheap and it does work. It is better than my stock Jet mini rest. It goes with the old addage, buy cheap, buy twice. In my case, if/when I upgrade to a big lathe, I won't be needing that rest. For my mini I think it works. I can't see spending a huge amount of money on a high quality rest for a mini lathe. Some rests are half of what I paid for the whole lathe. Can't see that.

Since you have a Delta midi, a more capable lathe, you may want to invest some serious dollars..... I you do take a chance, you won't be out a lot of dollars.

Just my $0.02.

[John Keeton]

John, what didn't you like about that rest? And what should someone look for when selecting a curved rest?Joe, I think the problem with this rest is the size of the rod. When you are moving across the rest with the curvature of the bowl, the distance of your tool from the work will change slightly. This seems to be because point of contact between the tool and rest changes. That can cause you to lose your bevel if you do not constantly adjust for it. It seems to take away the ability to make a flowing cut - at least for me. I think one with a slimmer edge would work better.

Hope that made sense!

[Ryan Baker]

I've never felt a need to use a curved rest, especially for someone starting out. A good one (like the Oneway) would be nice to have if you turn a lot of bowls, but you pay for it. (It is possible to fabricate one for little money if you have the ability, or know someone who will do it for you.) A curved rest may allow you to reposition the rest less often, especially on the outside. On the inside of a bowl, you can always angle a straight rest into the bowl to get closer if the bowl is deep. That will almost always get you plenty close enough unless you are using a really small tool. A flimsy curved rest is worse than no curved rest.

[Larry Marley]

[QUOTE=John Keeton;1437129]Joe, I think the problem with this rest is the size of the rod. When you are moving across the rest with the curvature of the bowl, the distance of your tool from the work will change slightly. This seems to be because point of contact between the tool and rest changes. That can cause you to lose your bevel if you do not constantly adjust for it. It seems to take away the ability to make a flowing cut - at least for me. I think one with a slimmer edge would work better.
[QUOTE]

I am with John on this. I have strait 6" rest like this and the tool is too far from the work.

[Wally Dickerman]

I seldom use a curved rest, but when I'm teaching I think that it helps a beginner to be close to the work on the inside of a bowl, especially in the bottom area. I've had, for a long time, the S shaped rest made by Delta. I think that it's a very good one. Recently, Delta came out with a smaller version for the mini lathes. Craft Supplies, and no doubt other suppliers has them for about $25. A good rest at a good price IMO.

Wally

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have a Sorby modular tool rest systems with a "S" tool rest. It seems to work for me.

[alex carey]

I don't use a curved rest, I don't really think they are necessary if the tools you are using have a lot of weight behind them. The point of the curved rest is that you can stay close to the bowl while you are making a long sweep. If your tools are big enough where you can hang off a few inches then it won't matter. If not then the curved rests might help, but i'd suggest a larger gouge/scraper.

[JIM HERNANDEZ]

Thanks for all the advice guys ! Sure is great to have a place to get this kind of guidance.

Jim

[dan carter]

If you decide to buy one, I would suggest you buy a cast iron tool rest, seems the one built with a rod have too many issues. At times, I use the curved Rockwell tool rest and it works fine.

[Ryan Baker]

As has been mentioned, there are two things that the curved rest will do for you (on the inside of a bowl):
1) It gets you closer to the work. In general, it is alwas useful to be close to the work. The additional gap due to a straight rest shouldn't be a problem with a moderately heavy tool. If using a very small or flimsy tool, vibration could be a problem. Of course, that is a problem that is better solved with a better tool than a better rest.
2) It keeps the gap between the rest and work surface constant (only in the case that the rest curve matches the desired curve of the bowl). It is easier to make cuts when the gap isn't changing. I think that is because it is harder to maintain the bevel and cutting angles when the gap is changing too. Especially for a beginner, a small and constant gap is probably easier. But there is something to be said for not having that crutch. I think that using a straight rest forces you to concentrate more on proper control of the tool and developing better technique from the start.

I think that if one wants to use a curved rest, by all means go ahead and use a curved rest ... nothing wrong with that. It's certainly not necessary though.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jim - I have a number of different rests that I use but did pick up the Woodcraft modular S curve rest back when I was first starting. Here it is: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000391/10533/S-Bowl-Rest.aspx

I had a problem using the S rest because the junction where the rest and the post met always got in the way! Nothing more frustrating than trying to get your rest inside of the bowl only to find out you have to pull the rest back out a little because you can't use the gouge over the joint area. At least - I couldn't!

I still have the rest and use it all the time - but not for what it was designed for. I use it when hollowing as the small 'S' portion makes for a great arm rest for my left hand!

If you want a curved rest - then pick up a single curve - not an 'S' and I think you will be a lot happier!

[scott schmidt grasshopper]

I haven't used the S shaped rod rest, but have used the cast iron one a couple times. I was not too happy with the curvature of the last part of the rest. I do prefer the curve of the one way inside/ outside curved rest. thats the one with the post in the middle of the curve . works great on the inside or outside and with a PM 3520 lathe does most of the needed hollowing on my bowls. I also have the one way deep bowl curved rest and have a couple issues with it , had a nasty catch one night and it flexed the rest adding alot of power to the spring back ( tell you about the hole in my cheek later)but,, I started looking closely at the rest and I notice it is not as solid as I would prefer. I feel vibration when out at the end of the rest, I DO use it when I have to get to the bottom of a deep bowl but other than that it sits at the side and I use the inside/outside curved rest mostly
I didnt see the specs for what lathe you are buying this for, but a shop made rest can be built for smaller than 16 inch lathes,( contact me offsite)