Beginner Questions

[Kurt Barker]

I am very much a beginner at woodturning. I've learned much from studying Kevin Neelley's website, and lurking and learning on SMC. I'm in need of a mid-project redesign and have both technical and aesthetic questions.
152224

152225

Technical questions:
1. If one were to have 'one more bite', at the base, what combination of speed and tool would one use to reshape the base without the end-grain blowout? (After I damaged the base, I installed and learned to use a Oneway sharpening jig, so that issue is solved)
2. If I were to forego 'one more bite', cut the base off the staves and replace it, should I replace it with a solid piece? If not, what should the replacement be?
3. Is the existence of the staves and rings the condition of which several have cautioned because of cross-grain instability?

Aesthetic questions:
1. On paper the curves looked ok. In the shop, the rings over the staves look over-bearing. Is the flare too large?
2. The three top rings were initially designed to be bloodwood. (The rings are ready to attach). Will the red over white be too contrasty? Kind of cheesey looking? Might the entire project look better in all maple?
3. Should the base be a larger diameter, so as to balance better with the top?

Sorry for the length of the message. Thanks in advance for your help.

ktb

Sometimes 1100 miles east of you-know-who, and sometimes 15 miles south.

[Richard Madison]

Kurt, Can not tell your grain directions for sure from the pictures, but in general cross grain glue joints should be avoided when ever possible. The reason is that woods expand/contract by different amounts in the radial, tangential, and axial (with respect to the tree) directions with changes in temperature and relative humidity (rh). These movements, or attempted movements can apply considerable stress to a cross grain glue joint, sometimes to the point of failure.

Might want to save the bloodwood rings for a totally segmented piece. Good luck with your project.

[John Hart]

If it were me Kurt...I'd increase the speed...alot. As far as what tool to use...well, that would be a matter of personal choice methinks. When I have a stubborn piece that is prone to blowout, I use the tool that gives me the smallest point of contact. (generally, I'll finese it with the point of the skew)