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View Full Version : Which Cross-Cut blade?



Tony Shea
05-31-2010, 8:35 PM
I have been debating for a little while on a dedicated cross-cut blade for my table saw, one that will produce very clean cuts with no chip-out and produce a very smooth cut surface. Lately I've been using a combo blade and am just kind of sick of the little bit of chip out I get in some of my finished cuts. My latest is a small cherry table top and I even masked the line and the back of the cut and still ended up with a little chipout on the back of the cut. A little chamfer will get rid of it but this is not always a good option. I also might use this blade for some plywoods.

Anyways I have been comtemplating between the Infinity Ultra Smooth 80T laminate blade that has 40* ATB with a 5* positive hook or the Freud LU85R ultimate cutoff with a 80T ATB and 10* hook. These are my two choices so far and would like others experiences and opinions on these blades or maybe some other blades of this quality and price. I really like the company Infinity and have had great customer relations with these guys. But if the Freud is a better blade then I guess that's what matters.

keith micinski
05-31-2010, 8:41 PM
I have the Freud Ultimate cutoff in my SCMS and I can't imagine how any other blade could do any better of a job. I wish it had a negative hook angle for the chop saw but you are not worried about that anyway on the table saw.

Andrew Pitonyak
05-31-2010, 9:12 PM
Have you considered a Forrest Woodworker 1?

http://www.forrestblades.com/woodworker_1.htm

Brian Hinther
05-31-2010, 9:15 PM
I think your Infinity blade choice is right on the money. In the Freud line, you might also consider the LU80 Ultimate Plywood and Melamine blade. It's more like the Infinity with higher blade angle and lower hook. Any of them would be wonderful!

Van Huskey
05-31-2010, 9:56 PM
I think your Infinity blade choice is right on the money. In the Freud line, you might also consider the LU80 Ultimate Plywood and Melamine blade. It's more like the Infinity with higher blade angle and lower hook. Any of them would be wonderful!

I agree, the LU80R would be my choice for a crosscut blade on a table saw. It leaves a GREAT finish. It also does great on ply but I prefer the Forrest Hi-ATB for ply.

Tony Shea
05-31-2010, 10:03 PM
On the table saw what is more advantagous, more hook angle or less and why? I was under the impression that more hook is better on the table saw but don't completely understand the physics behind it. And most of my cutting will be on hardwoods and would probably use a cheaper blade for plywoods unless I really need a super clean cut as I've noticed it to be hard on my blades.

John M Wilson
05-31-2010, 11:06 PM
I ran across a website for a saw sharpening service that has some very informative (to me) videos on saw blade technology. It's not the kind of thing that will keep your friends & neighbors riveted to the TV, but if you are interested in learning the how's and why's of hook angles, carbide teeth patterns, and exciting stuff like that, you might check it out. The outfit is DynamicSaw.com, and here is a link to the page with the videos: http://www.dynamic-saw-blade-sharpening.com/instructional-sawblade-videos.html
Good Luck!

Mike Reinholtz
05-31-2010, 11:57 PM
I ran across a website for a saw sharpening service that has some very informative (to me) videos on saw blade technology. It's not the kind of thing that will keep your friends & neighbors riveted to the TV, but if you are interested in learning the how's and why's of hook angles, carbide teeth patterns, and exciting stuff like that, you might check it out. The outfit is DynamicSaw.com, and here is a link to the page with the videos: http://www.dynamic-saw-blade-sharpening.com/instructional-sawblade-videos.html
Good Luck!


Just wanted to say a big thank you for posting this link! So far I've watched 3 of the videos and I've learned more in 10 minutes than in the last 5 years of wood working. Now I'm trying to remember what blade I have in which tool and if it's the right one.

scott spencer
06-01-2010, 9:10 AM
The higher the top bevel, the less tear out there's likely to be. The Infinity Ultrasmooth 010-080 is an excellent choice...no reason not to choose that one if you've had good experiences with them. Comparables are the Freud LU80, Forrest Duraline, and the CMT 210.080.10.

The steeper the hook, the more pull on the wood which leads to faster feed rate and more tendency for tear out. Most of the 80T Hi-ATB grinds have a fairly low hook, in the range of slightly negative to slightly positive. For a TS, a little positive hook helps keep the wood down on the table, which again makes the Infinity an excellent choice.

John M Wilson
06-01-2010, 9:52 AM
Thanks for the feedback -- I am such a noob, that I am never sure if the things that I find informative are "old hat" to the experienced folks that frequent this site. Glad I could pay back for the multitude of tips that I have received.

Joe Chritz
06-01-2010, 11:33 AM
I am walking out to the shop to break down 9 or 10 sheets of melamine for a kitchen project. UPS just dropped off the Freud ultimate LU80 crosscut blade.

I'll post back with some results. If it can cut 5/8" melamine decent it can cut anything.

Joe

Tony Shea
06-01-2010, 6:19 PM
Thanks alot for the replies, especially Scott as you have talked me right into the Infinity. Also those links look very interesting John as I am always wanting to learn absolutely everything I can that has to do with woodworking, especially the physics behind my tools. Glad I asked the question.

Peter Quinn
06-01-2010, 9:44 PM
I'm all about buying more TS blades, and I like a good saw blade myself. But I've never had much problem with tear out in solid stock even with just a decent combo like a WWII or ridge carbide blade as long as the cut is backed up and a ZCI is used. I keep a fresh backer on my cross cut sled and a sacrificial base sheet if the bottom matters to me, no problems. Seems to matter more than the blade being used except for plywood with very thin veneers. All the triple chip and hight ATB's shouldn't be necessary on solids if the set up is correct.

The Freud ultimate cross cut does leave one heck of a nice surface that almost looks polished in some species, but for most things that will get further edge detail I don't bother to put it on much any more.

Joe Chritz
06-02-2010, 2:59 AM
As promised I have a review of the Freud LU80.

I didn't get to breaking down the sheets because I built a lumber rack and started on french cleats and clamp racks and I received my new 1 HP feeder which was destroyed in transit by UPS, but I digress.

Cutting a piece of 5/8" melamine with a new blade and new zero clearance insert gave not one chip anywhere to be found, top or bottom. If it can do that I am sold.

I took a couple picks but I can't find the camera cord and the card wasn't in so they aren't getting on today.

Joe

Chris Parks
06-02-2010, 9:32 AM
I ran across a website for a saw sharpening service that has some very informative (to me) videos on saw blade technology. It's not the kind of thing that will keep your friends & neighbors riveted to the TV, but if you are interested in learning the how's and why's of hook angles, carbide teeth patterns, and exciting stuff like that, you might check it out. The outfit is DynamicSaw.com, and here is a link to the page with the videos: http://www.dynamic-saw-blade-sharpening.com/instructional-sawblade-videos.html
Good Luck!

Thanks for the link, does anyone find the site extremely slow or is it just me.

Myk Rian
06-02-2010, 11:52 AM
When I want clean crosscuts, I put my Freud LU73M010 Cabinetmakers crosscut blade in.
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU73M010-10-Inch-Cabinetmakers-Crosscutting/dp/B00004T79F