Metal cutting

[Brian Greb]

Hey y'all, I need to cut a peice of steel for a plane sole and I was wondering if I can put a metal cutting blade in one of my band saws for the task. I know my c'man can be set up for metal cutting but I was wondring if this would mess the saw up for wood cutting later.
Thanks

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Brian, yes metal chips make a mess of everything.

The other issue is blade speed, you need about 100 feet per minute for sawing steel, and about 4,000 feet per minute for sawing wood.

Most wood cutting band saws don't go slow enough for metal cutting applications.

(Yes I know, there are dual purpose band saws with gear reducers for cutting wood and metal, however Brian may not have one).

Regards, Rod.

[Dave Gallaher]

I agree. What kind of steel are you cutting? Most of what is available to us at retail stores is really soft. It may not work for your use.

[Bill Huber]

If you have a good jig saw and a good metal blade for it that would work just fine. I have used my Bosch to cut 1/4 plate, it does take some time but it does a nice job with a good blade.

[Brian Greb]

I was planning on useing 1/4" to 3/8" standard welding steel or 5/16" to 3/8 stainless. I guess I may have to find someone to fabracate the part I need.


FYI it will be the sole of a dovetailed infill scraper plane.

[Chip Lindley]

Some will strictly advise against using a bandsaw for both metal and wood, but it WORKS, if the BS speed can be reduced sufficiently. Slow speed is the key to cutting metal.

I have an old Delta/Milwaukee 14" BS with gearbox that cuts metal as well as it cuts wood. After any metal-cutting I run a strong magnet over the lower guides and inside the lower wheel housing to pick up as much steel dust as possible. Never try to blow a BS clean with compressed air after cutting steel.

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

If you go the jigsaw route, you might have much more trouble with the stainless.

[Gary Click]

I cut plate and flat bar up to 1-1/4" x 8" using a Skil Saw and abrasive blades made for metal. I keep a cheap saw specifically for this purpose. The blades are available at the box stores and I buy them 5 or 6 at a time. The saw will last a year or so and usually gives up with bearing failures. I chunk it and get another based on what's on sale. It is important to use abrasive blades for metal verses blades for concrete, they are NOT interchangable.

The process is simple, layout the cut and set the depth to 1/8" to 1/4" and take a pass across the bar using a feed rate sufficent to keep the RPM's up. This is critical as the fan needs to do it's job cooling the saw and it keeps the current draw reasonable and heat down. After clearing the cut which may require a pass or two, reset the depth and repeat the process until the cut is complete.

If an inside corner cut is required. Saw into the corner from both sides until the circular saw can do no more. Then complete the cut with a reciprocating saw with a Bi-Metal blade. This will require cleaning up with a grinder or a file but results in a good cut and crisp corner.

On thin sheert, 1/8" or less, the cut may be made in one pass. For plate serveral passes are required. To cut a 1-1/4"X8" flat bar (a common size for me since we use it to make railroad tie plates) takes about 30 minutes and the finished cut is very good, flat, straight and smooth and usually does not require cleanup machining. If I just need a cut off to machine or weld, I still use a torch. It is much faster but the cut is more ragged and rough.

gary

[Vince Shriver]

M.K.Morse makes a metal cutting skill saw blade (7 1-4") that goes thru metal like butter. Metal Devil. I've used in in a chop saw to trim off a Biesemeyer rail and it amazed me how quickly it cut. I figure it's good to have for more metal that might need cutting.

[Carroll Courtney]

While I have never cut wood/metal on a BS,I believe that it can be done with great accuracy since metal shops use them all the time.Assuming that you want to cut curves then the skil saw blades won't work,if you can't slow the blade down then go very slow w/the feed rate.What do you have to lose other than time,blade,soft piece of metal.Experiment,learn something, but do a good clean up afterwards.Stainless Steel???? Need a different kind of blade for that----Carroll

[David G Baker]

Go to a metal fabricator and have them shear the metal to the size you need. When you cut steel you need a cutting oil to do it right, can't imagine a wood cutting band-saw covered in cutting oil and metal chips.

[Ed Hazel]

A 41/2 inch angle grinder works good, I also use a cheapo HF metal cutting chop saw. You can also use a die grinder.
I think if you want to go the stainless route you will need to use something with an abrasive cutting wheel.

[Brian Cover]

While I have never cut wood/metal on a BS,I believe that it can be done with great accuracy since metal shops use them all the time.Assuming that you want to cut curves then the skil saw blades won't work,if you can't slow the blade down then go very slow w/the feed rate.What do you have to lose other than time,blade,soft piece of metal.Experiment,learn something, but do a good clean up afterwards.

I have a low priced Craftsman bench top bandsaw that I use for my metal cutting needs. Just be sure to get the proper blade. If in doubt, choose a finer tooth than you think you need. The only downside to getting too fine a tooth blade is that is will force you to feed at a slow rate, but the cut finish will be smooth.

All metals have FPM ratings. When I worked in a machine shop decades ago, we always referred to that chart to determine how fast to set our feed. Harder steels have lower FPM ratings. How fast you feed is a product of the FPM divided by blade speed. If your b/s speed is relatively high, just feed at a lower rate. That is the short answer.

Remember to just feed the metal at a steady rate and do not force the blade to cut. You should get the feel for it rather quickly. Wear safety glasses, use a bright light, and the most important advice is to wear gloves. The metal can get extremely hot since you will be dry cutting. When cutting without any coolant, the metal really gets quite warm.

[Eric DeSilva]

If you are planning on cutting one piece of steel, you might get away with buying a metal cutting blade for your BS, but as others have observed, blade speed is key, and your wood BS isn't going to cut slow enough.

That being said, even if it could, metal is messy work. Metal filings strike me as potentially being hazardous to my fine woodworking equipment, so my woodshop is in the basement, and my metalwork is in the garage.

If this is one piece of steel being cut, I'd go with the jigsaw and a metal cutting bit. It is slow, but it works. If you are going to spend the money for a metal blade for your bandsaw, you aren't going to get a good cut and you are going to make a mess. If the jigsaw isn't your cuppa tea, my next step would therefore be just getting a metal shop to cut what you want. If you plan on doing this over and over again, go to Sears and look up the Evolution Rage 4--I think it is the "4". It is a relatively cheap TCT cold cut saw. Couple hundred bucks for a 7 1/4" carbide steel-specific chop saw that cuts clean, cuts without heating up the metal, does deflect like an abrasive chop saw, and will do some serious thicknesses.

[Rob Cunningham]

Please DO NOT wear gloves when using a bandsaw. If the blade catches the glove, there will be blood. Yes the metal will get warm/ hot. Use a push block and make sure to wear safety glasses. Depending on how intricate your cut is, you may be able to just use a hacksaw and clean up the cuts with a file. That's how we did our first project in trade school.

[george wilson]

You need to rig up a gear head motor,or a pulley system to slow the blade down. 75 feet per minute will cut tool steel. You probably can get by with 100 or so. You also need a proper metal cutting blade,with hacksaw like teeth.

If you try to run too fast,you'll quickly burn up the blade.

Brass cuts o.k. on a wood bandsaw,if yours has enough oomph. We used to cut brass up to 5/8" thick on our 20" Delta,before we got a proper saw. Do clean out ALL the chips,or they'll end up chipping your planer.

I want to remind you that if you get the metal sheared,there will be a rounded over edge where ever it was sheared. You might want to allow an extra 1/8" per rounded edge. Try to get it sawn.

[Joe Chritz]

I used to profile tool steel for knives I was grinding on a no-name import bandsaw that I rigged a pulley to slow the blade speed down. Using a cutting wax and going slow it gave passable results.

I wouldn't want to do it on my good bandsaw.

Unless you are set on doing it yourself you can likely get it done cheaper than buying the stuff to limp through it.

Joe

[Mike Heidrick]

I have a portable Dewalt metal bandsaw and a Milwaukee abbrassive cut off saw. You could pick up a HF version of either of tehse on teh cheap and it will work fine and may cost less than a new bandsaw blade. The dewalt bandsaw has its own oiler. The chop saw makes TONS of sparks.

A jigsaw or grinder will also work. So will an air saw if you can use one of those depending on thickness.

[Dave Verstraete]

Brian
If you were closer I'd introduce you to my "Bandsaws" for cutting metal. They are a little more precise than you need.:D