do you work "from the rough"?

[Bob Riefer]

1)
Do you generally work with rough cut wood or already surfaced?

2)
When you were first learning, answer the same question

[Cody Colston]

I work exclusively with rough-cut wood. It's not only cheaper, but I have the ability to determine final thickness, ie, I'm not locked in to 3/4" stock.

When I was first learning, I didn't have the equipment to easily dimension stock, so I briefly used pre-surfaced lumber. I soon learned that pre-surfaced lumber is rarely flat and that the edge is not glue-up ready.

I quickly purchased a 6" Delta benchtop jointer and a DeWalt benchtop planer. I've been buying rough-cut lumber ever since.

[Stephen Cherry]

Bob, I buy my wood rough, because that is how it is generally sold. It says in your post that you are new to woodworking, and I am also. (maybe a couple of years, as time allows)

One of the big hurdles is getting a way to flatten boards. This usually amounts to a jointer- a big tool that has just a few missions in life, flattening, squaring, and maybe tapering. You can also use planes for this, but I have never done it.

One thing I can say though, is that you are in a great location to buy rough wood-- Hearne hardwoods is in Oxford PA, and it is well worth the trip.

[Chip Lindley]

Rough lumber is all I use! I find it at country auctions in barns, or buy a lot of kiln-dried from a mill. I have control over truly flattening boards and planing to final thickness. If I mass-produced a *product*, S2S would, no dolubt, save time and labor. But, I have the time to spend on milling lumber, and enjoy that as much as any other facet of woodworking.

When I started out in the 70s there was only lumber company pine and plywood. When I discovered hardwood I tried some S2S red oak for kitchen trim, but found it was not consistent, and suffered from planer marks and snipe. I knew I could do better, and DID! I acquired a planer and jointer and never looked back!

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Bob, when I started out I used pre-surfaced material, which as it turned out was expensive and not generally flat enough for furniture grade work.

A jointer and planer were purchased, and the improvement in my joinery was incredible.

It's amazing what flat, straight material will do for your workmanship.

As others have also noted, it allows to design what works/looks best, no being stuck to dimensional lumber dimensions.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. The voice of experience here, buy a big jointer, don't spend money on future upgrades. I replaced my separate machines with a Hammer A3-31, couldn't be happier.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I buy S3S, because that's all my favorite dealer sells, and because it lets me see the grain as I pick through the boards. I still end up surfacing it myself a second time, though.

If I was buying 100+ bdft piles, I'd buy rough. Usually I'm just buying enough for one specific project, though.

[John Coloccia]

Mostly rough, but that's just because it's how it comes from the lumber yard. Once it's sat around for a while, it won't be straight anyhow so what's the point of buy surfaced wood? I'd rather have rough 4/4 and plane to 3/4 than have surfaced 3/4 that's not flat with nowhere to go to make it flat.

[glenn bradley]

1 = rough whenever possible.

2 = Surfaced

[Harlan Theaker]

I find it at country auctions in barns

I wish I found this.

[Harlan Theaker]

I buy rough lumber as well. Same reasons as others have mentioned... price, final thickness.

[Joe Jensen]

I only buy rough wood. When I started I didn't have a planer so I was forced to buy surface wood. It is very hard to do quality work with surfaced wood as it's never very flat. I've now had a planer since 1990 and I won't work with wood that's not straight and flat.

1) I start by cutting the parts I need slightly oversize from rough wood.
2) I then use the jointer to make one face flat.
3) I then use the planer to bring to final thickness. I try to make sure that between jointing and planing I remove about the same amount from both surfaces
4) I then joint one edge straight
5) Rip to width. watch this, as if you rip more than 1/4" off, the board can move still
6) I cut one end square
7) Cut the board to length.

I only prepare the wood that I will use that session. If you prepare too much, and let it sit, it will move again. I am especially carefull on any wide panels I'm making.

Once you start using really flat and straight wood you won't go back.

BTW, I'd pay way more for rough sawn that surfaced

[David Nelson1]

Rough because of all the fore mentioned reasons.

[Shawn Pixley]

I buy S3S largely because around here no one sells rough lumber within a ~100 mile radius. Luckily, I can get up to 12/4 or more consistently. I true up and dimension as required.

[Will Overton]

When I started I bought fully dimensioned lumber. Now I buy a combination of rough and s2s, which is no thinner than 13/16.

[Frank Drew]

I think I can honestly say that I can count on one hand the number of surfaced boards I've bought over the many years.

[Eiji Fuller]

rough only and you will want it as thick as you can get it. Especially once you own a nice bandsaw.

[David Helm]

For many years my woodworking was as a builder. Generally bought dimensioned lumber then. Since I stopped building (7 years ago) I have only used rough lumber. I have a very good independent source here in Bellingham. I mostly use native woods, large sizes and live edge. For flattening, since much of what I use is quite wide, I set up a router sled. For all but final finish sanding I use an open ended drum sander.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

I like to do all my work with ruff cut lumber. When I get lumber that has been planned on 2 sides it is never flat on one side. I never buy anything except ruff cut unless that is all they have.

[Jim Summers]

1. Most of the time I start with rough. Actually I really enjoy milling wood as much as making whatever.


2. I was pretty lucky in that my dad had a jointer and planer, so I was able to use his until I got my own stuff.

HTH

[mike holden]

Don't think that I ever used S4S wood for a woodworking project. Construction 2X4's and 1X2's for basement shelving and darkroom construction (dating myself there - grin) yes, but not for anything where a visitor might see it.

Thinking about it surprised me, I would have thought that I had built something out of S4S, but I haven't. Hmmm.

Mike

[Peter Quinn]

I prefer rough, always have. But often that is not available where I shop in some species and thicknesses, so I buy hit and missed at 1/16" under the nominal size. If they have it rough I'll take it rough. Except for simple paint grade jobs or things that won't be flattened. Then I actually prefer they get rid of as much waste as possible. Being able to see the grain and color on certain woods like cherry can help with grain matching if you don't need the thickness.

[Myk Rian]

I bought an 8" jointer because I use rough sawn.

[Van Huskey]

I use rough almost exclusively, though I do get a some skip planed wood, the latter when I am looking for something specific and it lets me see most of the grain.

Starting out is was S4S stuff, but as soon as I got a jointer and planer that high priced not as flat as you expect wood was soon avoided.

[Matthew Hills]

I'm still in the beginning stage, but have picked up a planer + used jointer once I realized how frustrating it was to work with off-the-shelf s4s stock that wasn't flat/straight.

Since then, I've bought a mix of rough and s2s, just depending on buying opportunities.

Matt

[Phil Rose]

I always buy rough ... better prices, I get to decide final thickness, etc.

When I was learning I purchased surfaced pine. My first large tool was a radial arm saw, the second was a table saw, and the third was planer ... yep, I tried without a jointer, so that became the fourth.

[Victor Ortega]

I always start with rough lumber more for control on how flat it is. surfaced lumber is never flat enough or straightlined properly

[Jason Hallowell]

I buy mostly rough, and prefer it greatly for all the reasons already mentioned. I'm forced to buy S2S for a couple of wood varieties because that's all that's available locally.