john brenton
05-31-2010, 3:51 AM
There's quite a few amazingly talented and seasoned professionals in this forum...I am not one of them. When it comes to woodworking, I'm the guy in the sweater vest and argyle socks smoking a pipe while planing in the old tool catalogs. I go to buy wood and I feel like the guy who kicks the car tire at the car lot. Complete ignoramus here, but a plumber by trade so I am a Cro-Magnon through and through. I am dedicated to doing things the hard way as cheaply as possible, and think my tool acquisition stage has gone very well. I'm happy with every tool I have, I use just about all of them regularly, and have very little buyers remorse on any of my tools. A few frivolous buys here and there, but altogether a cheap skate's shop is being formed.
So I see a lot of newbs like me asking about essential tools and prices, so figuring that I am finally to the point where I don't want any more tools I figured I'd share. This isn’t my complete collection, but it is the bulk of it and covers what I believe to be at the very least essential to any job.
Photo: Tools (1):
The butchers block was made with some discounted wood with an oak strip for dogs in the future. For now its just fine the way it is. I get everything done with clamps for now. All of the tools pretty much speak for themselves, there really is nothing worthy of mention and most things are easily recognizable and can be found at the home improvement stores. The rasps, files, coping saw and the spoke shave get the most use, although everything gets used occasionally. The mallet is shop made and I use is ALL the time. It came out kind of crappy but it holds up to the abuse. Anything else worthy of mention is covered in the next pics.
photo CHISELS:
From L-R
1. Set of curved Sorby gouges: get used all the time. Set of three were $50 on Ebay from England. I was making a larger purchase so I worked out a deal.
2. Brass dovetail marker (bottom left): This little sucker was expensive. I think it was almost $40. If I have buyer's remorse it is for this little guy. I have absolutely no idea why I bought it. Must have been tax refund time. I use it and it works great, but there are cheaper systems or you can make them yourself.
3. Vaughn hammer: Every shop should have one $20.
4. Crown brand burnisher: around $20. What’s there to say? Its just a steel bar with a handle. Good buy and readily available.
5. Mortise chisels: various makers: Appr. $20 for the set on Ebay. Great set, ¼, 3/8 and ½. Essential.
6. ½” Mortise and swan neck chisels by Marples: Meah. I forget the name of these types, but this as a set probably cost me $70. That’s more than I like to spend, but that’s a whole lot of steel and I guess they’re worth it . They feel great in the hand though, such a generous hunk of metal they make the ladies blush.
7. Cabinet scrapers: Must have. They are cheap, something like $5 or less a piece.
8. Stanley chisels: I used to use them on my plumbing jobs but sharpening them never even crossed my mind. They were so dull they just laid in my tool bag uncovered and I would rummage through the bag and never get cut. The set would probably run about $50-60. Look for the Made in England ones. The Made in Mexico ones are garbage.
9. Bevel finder, angle finder, caliper and square are all essential and can be found dirt cheap or you can buy them in stores.
Note: Segments of corn cob make good chisel guards!
photo AXE and DRAW:
1. A good hewing axe is super convenient and saves time and effort when properly sharpened. I use mine all the time. $10.
2. Drawknives are varied and are easy to find. They can be quite expensive though. This is kind of your run of the mill drawknife. It took some work to get it right but it cuts through any wood like butter now. $10.
(Notice below an old Stanley mitre box. I use it less and less but is nice every once and a while $15.)
Photo: SAWS (1):
Notice the table is not a work bench per se. Someone gave me this drafting table and that is what really got me thinking about taking up woodworking as a hobby. I have decided how I would build my dream workbench, but I’m not sure I need one. I like the layout space of the drafting table top, and have plenty of jigs. The two machinist vices probably cost about $30 total.
L-R:
1. Saw vise: Sargent saw vise, although you can make your own, they are nice to have and can be found cheaply and you can buff out any rust. I paid about $15 for this one and I’m glad I did.
2. Saw jointer: about $5. I only bought it because the flea market guy told me I needed it and he gave me a deal, but I use it and it works. It instantly fixed my rip saws tendency to pull to the right. The file of course is about $5 at any home improvement store.
3. Saws from top to bottom:
- Old 7 TPI Rip Saw: $6
- Stanley fine finish saws: You can’t resharpen them but I think they’re well worth the $20. They really do cut very finely and are great for soft woods. If used with care they can last a really long time.
- Old Nicholson 8 tpi X-cut: A little rough but it goes where Stanley fine finish won’t. $7. A few days after I bought this one I saw a mint vintage Pax X-cut 10 tpi go for $22. I could have kicked myself.
- Old Disston dovetail saw: Awesome. I set the kerf very thin for fine cuts (oh crap, I forgot to pull out the saw sets for the photo. Oh well.) $14
- Two Cherries dovetail saw: People are very disappointed in this saw because they need to be set and sharpened prior to use. I set the kerf a little wider than the Disston. Once sharpened and set you’ve got yourself a great saw. $20.
- Bear saw, Japanese pull: I don’t know why I dislike tools from the East, I guess I still have that “jap crap” mentality, but I must admit this is a necessity for flush cuts and last forever. I forget how much but they’re in the home improvement stores. $15? Couldn’t be more than that.
Photo: SHARPENING (1)
I have the Norton water stone system and I think the world of them, but in my opinion this is all you really need to get by. It’s just a slab of granite (thick glass is better but this was free), a sanding belt ($3.00) and a stone. This oil stone was about $10 at an antique store and is my favorite, but any good stone will do. You can lap your planes, chisel backs and your oil stones on the belt. Spray the sanding belt with W-D40 to lubricate and to float the crud to the top and wipe clean. Couple this method with a homemade paddle strop with some white rouge and you can get a mirror shine on your tools. (pic of the dirty old paddle strop next to the rabbet plane in image 'plane (2)')
Photo: BRACE AND BITS.
- Old Stanley Brace with rosewood: $15. Awesome. Don’t get one with two short of a U shape to it because you want to get the torque. Has reverse and ratchet settings.
- Set of Irwin bits: $25. These are easy to find. If I were to do it again I would have paid the extra $30 and gotten a better set. The small ones are a pain in the butt to sharpen but it can be done.
Photo: PLANES (1):
Essential set of planes (R-L):
1. Unsexy Stanley block plane: Can become a good user. They’re about $20-25 and with a razor sharp edge can do a great job on end grain and any other task you may need.
2. Bench plane smoother: Essential. A few weeks ago I paid $20 for this Miller’s Falls in its original box. Note that although this 900 model was actually an economy model at the time it was manufactured, the standards have changed so much that I would say that this is a very fine plane. Compared to any modern store brand it is head and shoulders above.
3. Stanley Bailey #5 jack plane: Nothing more needs to be said. This is basically THE plane. $25.
PLANES (2)
(From bottom to top)
Included in this photo are the wooden alternatives. For some applications I like the metal body planes, for others I like the woodies. When I’m making really shallow cuts or working certain types of wood I like the woodies. It’s like the difference between mechanical tuners on a guitar vs. wooden pegs. Although the tuners are easier and seem to be more consistent, it seems like nothing dials in the note better than the wooden pegs.
1. Unmarked block plane: $5. Flattening the sole took 10 years off my life but it works just as good as the Stanley now.
2. Stanley SW era No.45 tongue and groove: $40. What defines necessity? I needed it so I bought it. I’ve used it several times and is a good thing to have around.
3. 18” wooden Jack: Salmen plane with thick Mathieson iron: $50. A bit of a frivolity but well worth it. If you see a woody in this good of condition I say buy it. A new wooden jack would have cost me double or triple.
4. 22” Wooden try plane (jointer) with massive Sorby iron: $35. I prefer a wooden jointer for its weight. Set for shallow cuts the plane practically does the work for you. A little beaten up but I call that character.
5. Horn handled smoother with Goldenberg iron: Either $15 or $25, don’t remember. Again, I say if you find a good one take it. Remember the brand of the iron is important too. There are sellers that take the real iron out and put any old thin tin can iron in there and that’s a total rip.
6. Rabbet (rebate) plane with Goldenberg iron: $20. Convenient and one of a few rabbet planes I have.
So that concludes it. I’m sure I missed something, but there are some of the current prices that I think are good. As I noted, there are deals better than these deals, and I know there have been a few tools that I was proud of the price until I saw the same exact thing sell for $10 less. That’s always going to happen and as long as you are happy with the tool the sting won’t last too long.
So I see a lot of newbs like me asking about essential tools and prices, so figuring that I am finally to the point where I don't want any more tools I figured I'd share. This isn’t my complete collection, but it is the bulk of it and covers what I believe to be at the very least essential to any job.
Photo: Tools (1):
The butchers block was made with some discounted wood with an oak strip for dogs in the future. For now its just fine the way it is. I get everything done with clamps for now. All of the tools pretty much speak for themselves, there really is nothing worthy of mention and most things are easily recognizable and can be found at the home improvement stores. The rasps, files, coping saw and the spoke shave get the most use, although everything gets used occasionally. The mallet is shop made and I use is ALL the time. It came out kind of crappy but it holds up to the abuse. Anything else worthy of mention is covered in the next pics.
photo CHISELS:
From L-R
1. Set of curved Sorby gouges: get used all the time. Set of three were $50 on Ebay from England. I was making a larger purchase so I worked out a deal.
2. Brass dovetail marker (bottom left): This little sucker was expensive. I think it was almost $40. If I have buyer's remorse it is for this little guy. I have absolutely no idea why I bought it. Must have been tax refund time. I use it and it works great, but there are cheaper systems or you can make them yourself.
3. Vaughn hammer: Every shop should have one $20.
4. Crown brand burnisher: around $20. What’s there to say? Its just a steel bar with a handle. Good buy and readily available.
5. Mortise chisels: various makers: Appr. $20 for the set on Ebay. Great set, ¼, 3/8 and ½. Essential.
6. ½” Mortise and swan neck chisels by Marples: Meah. I forget the name of these types, but this as a set probably cost me $70. That’s more than I like to spend, but that’s a whole lot of steel and I guess they’re worth it . They feel great in the hand though, such a generous hunk of metal they make the ladies blush.
7. Cabinet scrapers: Must have. They are cheap, something like $5 or less a piece.
8. Stanley chisels: I used to use them on my plumbing jobs but sharpening them never even crossed my mind. They were so dull they just laid in my tool bag uncovered and I would rummage through the bag and never get cut. The set would probably run about $50-60. Look for the Made in England ones. The Made in Mexico ones are garbage.
9. Bevel finder, angle finder, caliper and square are all essential and can be found dirt cheap or you can buy them in stores.
Note: Segments of corn cob make good chisel guards!
photo AXE and DRAW:
1. A good hewing axe is super convenient and saves time and effort when properly sharpened. I use mine all the time. $10.
2. Drawknives are varied and are easy to find. They can be quite expensive though. This is kind of your run of the mill drawknife. It took some work to get it right but it cuts through any wood like butter now. $10.
(Notice below an old Stanley mitre box. I use it less and less but is nice every once and a while $15.)
Photo: SAWS (1):
Notice the table is not a work bench per se. Someone gave me this drafting table and that is what really got me thinking about taking up woodworking as a hobby. I have decided how I would build my dream workbench, but I’m not sure I need one. I like the layout space of the drafting table top, and have plenty of jigs. The two machinist vices probably cost about $30 total.
L-R:
1. Saw vise: Sargent saw vise, although you can make your own, they are nice to have and can be found cheaply and you can buff out any rust. I paid about $15 for this one and I’m glad I did.
2. Saw jointer: about $5. I only bought it because the flea market guy told me I needed it and he gave me a deal, but I use it and it works. It instantly fixed my rip saws tendency to pull to the right. The file of course is about $5 at any home improvement store.
3. Saws from top to bottom:
- Old 7 TPI Rip Saw: $6
- Stanley fine finish saws: You can’t resharpen them but I think they’re well worth the $20. They really do cut very finely and are great for soft woods. If used with care they can last a really long time.
- Old Nicholson 8 tpi X-cut: A little rough but it goes where Stanley fine finish won’t. $7. A few days after I bought this one I saw a mint vintage Pax X-cut 10 tpi go for $22. I could have kicked myself.
- Old Disston dovetail saw: Awesome. I set the kerf very thin for fine cuts (oh crap, I forgot to pull out the saw sets for the photo. Oh well.) $14
- Two Cherries dovetail saw: People are very disappointed in this saw because they need to be set and sharpened prior to use. I set the kerf a little wider than the Disston. Once sharpened and set you’ve got yourself a great saw. $20.
- Bear saw, Japanese pull: I don’t know why I dislike tools from the East, I guess I still have that “jap crap” mentality, but I must admit this is a necessity for flush cuts and last forever. I forget how much but they’re in the home improvement stores. $15? Couldn’t be more than that.
Photo: SHARPENING (1)
I have the Norton water stone system and I think the world of them, but in my opinion this is all you really need to get by. It’s just a slab of granite (thick glass is better but this was free), a sanding belt ($3.00) and a stone. This oil stone was about $10 at an antique store and is my favorite, but any good stone will do. You can lap your planes, chisel backs and your oil stones on the belt. Spray the sanding belt with W-D40 to lubricate and to float the crud to the top and wipe clean. Couple this method with a homemade paddle strop with some white rouge and you can get a mirror shine on your tools. (pic of the dirty old paddle strop next to the rabbet plane in image 'plane (2)')
Photo: BRACE AND BITS.
- Old Stanley Brace with rosewood: $15. Awesome. Don’t get one with two short of a U shape to it because you want to get the torque. Has reverse and ratchet settings.
- Set of Irwin bits: $25. These are easy to find. If I were to do it again I would have paid the extra $30 and gotten a better set. The small ones are a pain in the butt to sharpen but it can be done.
Photo: PLANES (1):
Essential set of planes (R-L):
1. Unsexy Stanley block plane: Can become a good user. They’re about $20-25 and with a razor sharp edge can do a great job on end grain and any other task you may need.
2. Bench plane smoother: Essential. A few weeks ago I paid $20 for this Miller’s Falls in its original box. Note that although this 900 model was actually an economy model at the time it was manufactured, the standards have changed so much that I would say that this is a very fine plane. Compared to any modern store brand it is head and shoulders above.
3. Stanley Bailey #5 jack plane: Nothing more needs to be said. This is basically THE plane. $25.
PLANES (2)
(From bottom to top)
Included in this photo are the wooden alternatives. For some applications I like the metal body planes, for others I like the woodies. When I’m making really shallow cuts or working certain types of wood I like the woodies. It’s like the difference between mechanical tuners on a guitar vs. wooden pegs. Although the tuners are easier and seem to be more consistent, it seems like nothing dials in the note better than the wooden pegs.
1. Unmarked block plane: $5. Flattening the sole took 10 years off my life but it works just as good as the Stanley now.
2. Stanley SW era No.45 tongue and groove: $40. What defines necessity? I needed it so I bought it. I’ve used it several times and is a good thing to have around.
3. 18” wooden Jack: Salmen plane with thick Mathieson iron: $50. A bit of a frivolity but well worth it. If you see a woody in this good of condition I say buy it. A new wooden jack would have cost me double or triple.
4. 22” Wooden try plane (jointer) with massive Sorby iron: $35. I prefer a wooden jointer for its weight. Set for shallow cuts the plane practically does the work for you. A little beaten up but I call that character.
5. Horn handled smoother with Goldenberg iron: Either $15 or $25, don’t remember. Again, I say if you find a good one take it. Remember the brand of the iron is important too. There are sellers that take the real iron out and put any old thin tin can iron in there and that’s a total rip.
6. Rabbet (rebate) plane with Goldenberg iron: $20. Convenient and one of a few rabbet planes I have.
So that concludes it. I’m sure I missed something, but there are some of the current prices that I think are good. As I noted, there are deals better than these deals, and I know there have been a few tools that I was proud of the price until I saw the same exact thing sell for $10 less. That’s always going to happen and as long as you are happy with the tool the sting won’t last too long.