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Jay Khan
05-30-2010, 9:19 AM
Hello all,

I've been a long time knowledge absorber on these forums and now a first time poster. First of all what a great bunch of guys and girls, gotta love you guys.

Now the question, I had been using a smaller chinese laser and it's working fine but decided to get a larger one that comes in pieces.

I've got all other stuff figured out but CANNOT for the life of me solder the laser tube pins to the wires where it's supposed to be soldered.

I've tried various types of soldering wires but none seems to stick to the pole/pin sticking out of the laser tube.

I've cleaned the pins, have sanded it, have used the soldring flux etc. but still no go.:(

I'm worried that i'm damaging the laser tube now.

I would greatly appreciate you guys' knowledgeable answer on this.

Thanks,
Jay

Dan Hintz
05-30-2010, 9:46 AM
You need to pour a lot of heat onto those pins in a very short period of time. Instead of a soldering iron, I suggest getting some solder-infused flux (found in the plumbing aisle at your local Borg) and using a microtorch.

James Jaragosky
05-30-2010, 11:08 AM
You need to pour a lot of heat onto those pins in a very short period of time. Instead of a soldering iron, I suggest getting some solder-infused flux (found in the plumbing aisle at your local Borg) and using a microtorch.
I cannot say whether Dan’s suggestion will work or not, however he is very knowledgeable on many subjects and I would not hesitate to try anything he recommends.
That said I have had the same issues as you are currently experiencing.
You need the largest soldering iron you can get; the small ones will not work. You can very easily screw up your tube with an iron that is too small. As Dan has stated, you need a lot of heat for a very short time (less than 2 or 3 seconds) this will insure that the heat will not travel in to the connections farther in the tube. I damaged one tube using a small iron and the end result was water in both chambers of the tube, $300 for a new 40watt tube. You can call me anytime with questions if you need.
Jim J 317-353-4905

Jay Khan
05-30-2010, 3:00 PM
Dan, James, Thanks guys for great tips. I'll try it out and see how it goes… James I'm keeping my fingers crossed and have you on speed dial :D

Thanks again.

Niklas Bjornestal
05-31-2010, 5:19 AM
If you cant get the soldering to stick you can always use a cable "joiner" (dont know the english word), se image.
Might not be as good as soldering, but worked for my 40W RS laser.

Dan Hintz
05-31-2010, 9:30 AM
If you cant get the soldering to stick you can always use a cable "joiner" (dont know the english word), se image.
Might not be as good as soldering, but worked for my 40W RS laser.
If you go this route, make sure the connection is secure, else you can get arcing...

Jay Khan
05-31-2010, 3:29 PM
Ok, so i tried the biggest soldering gun i could find and it was about140w , that did not work, got 5 different types of soldering wires and fluxes but no go. then tried the micro-torch but no go.

called a few 'electricians' around but they apparently do not do soldering.

At the end I was successful...... in breaking the 60w tube pins and breaking the glass around the pin, which in turn leaked the gas....

luckily i purchased 2 tubes so the broken one will now be an experimental tube.

I think i'll try the wire joining trick and see how it goes on the demo tube now. BTW does anyone know where I can get the 'cable joiner' thingy pictured above?

Michael Oswald
05-31-2010, 4:06 PM
You should be able to get a connector like that at any radio shack or larger hardware store. Again, do what Dan said and make SURE that connection is secure. I would wrap it in electrical tape also.

Dan Hintz
05-31-2010, 6:51 PM
I would wrap it in electrical tape also.
I would suggest appropriately-labeled silicone tubing. Standard black electrical tape is only rated for 600V, so if you use tape make sure you get the high-voltage stuff at the very least (and I don't believe it's rated for tens of kV, either).

Larry Robinson
05-31-2010, 9:37 PM
Make sure you are using the correct type of solder. There is a specfic type for electrical. The solder for plumbing will not work.

I also presolder wires before I solder them together. In other words, heat up each wire and load up the bare wire with solder. Bring the two presolder wires together, apply heat and they will solder together very quickly. This has always worked for me for tough soldering jobs.

Larry

Dan Hintz
06-01-2010, 6:42 AM
The solder for plumbing will not work.
There's nothing wrong with plumbing solder... the only difference between the two is the flux core (plumbing flux is more aggressive), and we don't have to worry about components legs getting eaten away by trapped flux. Clean the connection with alcohol after it has been made and you're fine.

EDIT: Duh, just thought of this... if anything, plumbing solder is "better" because it's lead free (silver-based, why it's so expensive)... no one wants lead in their drinking water.

Norberto Coutinho
06-01-2010, 3:50 PM
I use this a lot.... ready for up 69000 volts - 69KV .
.
http://products3.3m.com/catalog/br/pt002/utilities_telecom/electrical_energy/node_XR2TBSJMZQbe/root_GSHL20G7FLgv/vroot_W80X433L83ge/gvel_77J1JB94NSgl/theme_br_electricalenergy_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

Larry Robinson
06-03-2010, 11:48 AM
[QUOTE=Dan Hintz;1435682]There's nothing wrong with plumbing solder.QUOTE]

Just an added note on solder.

There is a difference between electrical solder and other solders. Melting temperature. Electrical solder will melt at 361 F. All others are higher.

In this application you would want to use the lowest melting temperature solder which is Electrical solder.

Larry

Dan Hintz
06-03-2010, 4:43 PM
Just an added note on solder.

There is a difference between electrical solder and other solders. Melting temperature. Electrical solder will melt at 361 F. All others are higher.

In this application you would want to use the lowest melting temperature solder which is Electrical solder.
Another added note ;)

The 361F melting point is for 63/37 Sn/Pb eutectic... the standard 60/40 stuff sold at Radio Shack and the like melts at 370 (and above, depending upon quality). I personally use eutectic for all of my electronics stuff that doesn't mind lead... the quality unleaded stuff is too expensive to throw around for most projects.

The torch shouldn't be on the pin for more than a couple of seconds... if it takes longer than that your torch (or iron) isn't hot enough. You need high heat and short time. Even silver solder will melt almost instantly in the tip of a flame, so use that to your advantage... heat the pin for a second or two and then place the solder directly in the flame.