Rockler's Box Joint Jig ...... Review

[Bill Huber]

To start, I am not affiliated with Rockler in any way. I paid for this jig and was not give any intensives to buy it form Rockler or any person at Rockler. I know no one at Rockler and I have never been give anything from them. I have been in the store 3 or 4 times but everything I left with I paid for and was given noting but a sack and a receipt.


So they have a new little box joint jig, the price is $79 but they had a problem with some of them and the wrong keys were installed so they have those units on sale for $49.99 with the correct key. I guess it is cheaper for them to discount it then to pay someone to open each box and replace the key.

The unit is so easy to set up I thought I must be missing something, this can't work this easy. Install your router bit, place the unit on the router table and with a gauge block you slide it over until the gauge block just fits between the key and the bit and lock it down with two large knobs that tighten up the parts that go in the miter slot. That is one thing, you do have to have a miter slot on your router table,

Now set the bit height, this was were I had a problem, I could not get the adjustment hole for my lift it was covered over by the jig. Well that took all of about 5 min. to fix. A few measurements and a forstner bit and I was back at it.

So I put the gauge block back in moved the unit over until the gauge block would just fit between the bit and the key and locked things down. Cut a small MDF board for a fence and off I went.

I just use some scrap I had to test it and I will have to say the first box joints were spot on and fit perfect, it does what it is made for and very easy to boot.

I know you can make a jig really easy and fast but I have never had much luck doing it, they never come out like they should. I use my PC dovetail jig with the box joint plate for all of my box joints until now.

Is it worth the $79, no I really don't think so is it worth the $49.99 well maybe, it is very easy to set up and it makes a really quick job of making a box joint so I guess you will have to decide that.

Likes:
Very easy to set up and use.
Good hardware
It comes with 3 keys, 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2.
It is made ok, the keys are screwed on and there is a metal plate inside so you are not using a wood screw that will screw up the hole in a shot time.

Things I didn't like:
I think the whole thing should be made to use by pulling the the boards to you and not pushing them. I do not like NOT seeing the bit at all times and when you are pushing a board and holding it at the same time it is hard to see the bit.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=25122

151799

[Will Overton]

I think the whole thing should be made to use by pulling the the boards to you and not pushing them. I do not like NOT seeing the bit at all times and when you are pushing a board and holding it at the same time it is hard to see the bit.

That's an interesting thought. I don't know of any jigs designed to pull the work toward you. I wonder if there is a good reason for that, or just out of habit that we generally push wood past a blade or bit.

[Kevin Gregoire]

i bought one of these a few weeks back since it was on sale but have not yet tried it out as im waiting to build my router table but i look forward to using it and it looks very well made.

[Bill Huber]

That's an interesting thought. I don't know of any jigs designed to pull the work toward you. I wonder if there is a good reason for that, or just out of habit that we generally push wood past a blade or bit.

I think it is just habit, I see no reason to have to push it. If you pulled it to you, you could see the bit at all times and that is what I like.

It is not the bit or the way the wood hits the bit, it is the same angle no matter if you are in front of the bit or behind it.

I may try and make a new base to try it and then if that works better for me I may make one out of 1/2 phenolic, that would really be nice.

[Greg Peterson]

Thanks for the review.

I built my own finger joint jig for the table saw recently. I saw this jig at Rocklers but thought $80 was a bit steep. I figured I could copy the design if I want.

As for pushing/pulling the work piece, I'm not crazy about the idea of having a spinning bit popping out the back side of the work piece. But I am less thrilled with having the spinning bit between me and the workpiece as I reposition it on the jig.

[Greg Wease]

I have used this jig with good success but generally use a homemade jig on the table saw. If you want to pull the Rockler jig, can't you just work from the other side of the router table? (Something I sure wouldn't try on the table saw!)

[Bill Huber]

I have used this jig with good success but generally use a homemade jig on the table saw. If you want to pull the Rockler jig, can't you just work from the other side of the router table? (Something I sure wouldn't try on the table saw!)

I could but my table is against a wall and I would have to pull it out to do that.

It may be just a thing I need to get used to. I made a box today and it was not to bad but I would still like to see that bit at all times.

[Alan Schaffter]

That jig looks like a decent little jig for a router table. My RT doesn't have a miter slot, though.

There will be a new gun in town later this year that is just as easy to set . . . naw it is easier to set, works on both TS and router table, but is not limited to just 3 finger sizes- it is infinitely adjustable between 1/8" and 3/4".

[Phil Thien]

I may try and make a new base to try it and then if that works better for me I may make one out of 1/2 phenolic, that would really be nice.

Couldn't you just put two more slots on the other side of the base, and then use it as either a push or a pull?

Nice review.

Love the intro.

[Bill Huber]

Couldn't you just put two more slots on the other side of the base, and then use it as either a push or a pull?

Nice review.

Love the intro.

I think I could by redrilling the hole for the bit, but I think I will make a new one out of phenolic when I get around to it.

I did make a box today with it and it was not to bad, but I would still like to see the bit.

[mike holden]

Bill,
Not to be a smart alec, but couldn't you just stand on the other side of your router table?
I have a similar jig made by Woodline and find it works very well.
Mike

[Bill Huber]

Bill,
Not to be a smart alec, but couldn't you just stand on the other side of your router table?
I have a similar jig made by Woodline and find it works very well.
Mike

I could but my table is against a wall and I would have to pull it out to do that.

It may be just a thing I need to get used to. I made a box today and it was not to bad but I would still like to see that bit at all times.

[tom coleman]

HI Bill

I am recently retired and hope to make interesting personalized boxs for grand kids. I very much appreciated your review of rockler jig which sounds like a good buy.

I have been trying to rationalize purchasing the Incra LS for several years but I have read a lot of negative opinions that this is a tricky toy to get et up. I also wonder if the fancy joinery is possible without buying the Wonder Tall Fence accessory.Have you ever considered this jig, any comments?

Woodhaven also seems to have a good jig for box joints.

For a novice woodworker, which of the above would you recommend?

Thanks in advance

[Bill Huber]

HI Bill

I am recently retired and hope to make interesting personalized boxs for grand kids. I very much appreciated your review of rockler jig which sounds like a good buy.

I have been trying to rationalize purchasing the Incra LS for several years but I have read a lot of negative opinions that this is a tricky toy to get et up. I also wonder if the fancy joinery is possible without buying the Wonder Tall Fence accessory.Have you ever considered this jig, any comments?

Woodhaven also seems to have a good jig for box joints.

For a novice woodworker, which of the above would you recommend?

Thanks in advance

I think you would have to really talk to someone that has the Incra, it is a really great looking set up but for me it was just a little over priced for my needs at this time as a hobby woodworker. I have watched some of the videos that are out there on the Incra and it does look really nice but just don't thing I would use it that much.

I have a standard router table and fence (Jessem) and am very happy with that and the little Rockler Box Joint jig, I have made a lot of small boxes with it now and it is still doing a great job and is so easy to set up and use.

For the money I still thing the Rockler is a quick and cheap way to get into making box joints, I have never used some of the others. There are a lot of woodworkers that do all their box joints on the table saw, I just did not have much luck with that. I have a PC dove tail jig and it does box joints, it just take a little set up and the Rockler is so fast and easy I just use it.

[Alan Schaffter]

There are a lot of woodworkers that do all their box joints on the table saw, I just did not have much luck with that. I have a PC dove tail jig and it does box joints, it just take a little set up and the Rockler is so fast and easy I just use it.

Just need to wait a few more months and all these problems will go away. Trust me, I've seen and tested it. It is spot on with any size fingers on either a router table or tablesaw. Setup is truly quick and simple. Its also the safest one with blade/bit guards so there is no danger of getting your fingers in the way if you decide to push the jig! It even has dust collection!

[Bill Huber]

Just need to wait a few more months and all these problems will go away. Trust me, I've seen and tested it. It is spot on with any size fingers on either a router table or tablesaw. Setup is truly quick and simple. Its also the safest one with blade/bit guards so there is no danger of getting your fingers in the way if you decide to push the jig! It even has dust collection!

That is really great, but you do have remember that if you have a project that you are going to make in the next week or so, its hard to wait for who knows how long.

You told us of this in May and now it is Dec. and we have seen noting yet, so how long should we wait until me can make our project?

[Gil Knowles]

Bill
Good review. I have 1 question. Would you be able to use this jig with a table saw?
I have the Freud box joint blades for the table saw.
Thanks
Gil

[Bill Huber]

Bill
Good review. I have 1 question. Would you be able to use this jig with a table saw?
I have the Freud box joint blades for the table saw.
Thanks
Gil

No, it is just for the router table.

[Jay Allen]

My first thought about pulling the carriage toward you is that you would then have to reach over the bit to move the piece between cuts, wouldn't you? Seems much safer to have the bit "out there" while I am moving my part back here closer to me.....because no one is actually turning the router off between cuts, are they?

[Alan Schaffter]

That is really great, but you do have remember that if you have a project that you are going to make in the next week or so, its hard to wait for who knows how long.

You told us of this in May and now it is Dec. and we have seen nothing yet, so how long should we wait until me can make our project?

Yup, I know and understand. Sorry! It has been frustrating for me too!!! Getting really close now. I believe there is one tiny, simple part, to source, then full production. Most other parts have already had the first production run of a 1000 or so. I have no clue as to how much time is involved in documentation (I already wrote a rough manual on an early prototype), packaging, and marketing. But I'm crossing my fingers it will be a reality later this Winter or early Spring.

[Don Bullock]

Bill, thanks for the review. I bought one of these when Rockler had the sale. It looked easy but I haven't had a chance to use mine yet. Your idea of making a hole with a forstner bit for my lift height adjustment is great. I'll have to check that out when I use it for the first time. The main reason that I bought this jig is that it looked easy and you have confirmed that. Sure I know there are many ways to do any project in the shop using different tools. I may, in my collection of tools, have at least four or five different ways to make box joints. The apparent ease of this system is something that sold me on buying one. I also liked the Box Joint Jig Cauls that Rockler has designed to go with the unit. It all looked perfect for some of the projects that I have planned for this year.

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/33792-01-200.jpg
Rockler Box Joint Jig Cauls

As for the above mentioned jig that's coming out, that's the nature of the beast. Just about every tool we have in our shops may be replaced some day with something "better." If I always waited for the better tool, computer, TV, etc. to come out I'd end up with nothing. Perhaps in a way that might nice to do. It sure would save me a lot of money.

[Alan Schaffter]

I also liked the Box Joint Jig Cauls that Rockler has designed to go with the unit.

http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/33792-01-200.jpg
Rockler Box Joint Jig Cauls

Is the spacing on the Rockelr cauls variable or do you need three sets to cover the three, 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" joints possible with the Rockler jig?

That is an issue with variable spacing jigs. I recommend if you have one of those or any jig and just don't want to buy cauls, you set your jig and make extra sets of fingers in scrap wood and cut them into strips on a BS or TS to make clamping cauls. I made a wide variety of finger sizes during testing; the fit was so good I couldn't glue them up tightly without cauls.


Just about every tool we have in our shops may be replaced some day with something "better."

I know. I'm always looking for ways to improve my jigs and tools! :D:D , but I think this one is well worth waiting for.

To give y'all an idea of what's coming, I made the following joints during testing. The first two decorative joints were made the same way as a standard box joint, but with one very simple dial-in adjustment that required absolutely no measuring, no calipers, no "cut-test-adjust-cut-test-adjust", etc. They were made in one step (the contrasting inserts were obviously cut separately) with no separate router or tablesaw actions. I also used it to cut tiny 1/8" fingers on the table saw. Absolutely any size is possible from tiny 1/8" up 7/8" if you have a dado or router bit that size. I even messed with the engine and used a rabbetting router bit to cut 1-1/8" wide fingers! It was a bit scary, but I took it really slowly so had no problem. I don't know where you would ever use anything that wide, it was just an experiment.

In the second, close-up photo of a dry-fit joint, you can see the small ears left by the ATB teeth of the Forrest WWII used to make tiny 1/8" fingers in 3/4" thick by 7.5" wide spalted soft maple, but the finger spacing and fit is perfect. Actually, I counted 64 fingers- since the math doesn't work (64 1/8" fingers should be 8"), I measured the fingers with a caliper. They were approx only 7/64" wide, but that is the beauty of this jig- it doesn't care about the width of the cutter. Oversize/undersize, it doesn't matter!! you set the jig to the cutter or more precisely to the cut!! Also, during testing, I tried to play "Joe Woodworker", and took absolutely no special care when setting the jig. I am a tinkerer and woodworker, but not that great of a woodworker! I won't say it is idiot proof, because you know what they say about idiots, but dang, it couldn't have been any easier. With that, I'll give it a rest. Thanks for putting up with me. :)

Edit: Absolutely no hyperbole or hype in the above, just the facts!

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/IMG_3332.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/IMG_3286rot.jpg

[Jaze Derr]

Thanks for the review! I just ordered this box joint jig after trying all day to make a home-made one and getting frustrated. So I hope it works pretty well.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I've too have made similar homemade jigs that reference the notch off the previous notch. For long box joints, it always ends up going off as the slight error in tolerance accumulates. Perhaps a factory made one will have the best accuracy.

Another option is to build a 'screw-type' box joint jig. It eliminates the accumulative error. But, it takes more time to build. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?149768-My-Box-Joint-Jig On the positive side, it uses the tablesaw which is a little more relaxing to me than a screaming router.

I've also found that the Oshlun box joint blade set to work well. No 'bat ears' in the kerf. I also hear similar good reviews on Freud's version. They often go around $60+ and will do 1/4" and 3/8" box joints. For any other size, you would have to use a traditional dado blade and live with the 'bat ears'.

-Jeff :)

[Alan Schaffter]

I've too have made similar homemade jigs that reference the notch off the previous notch. For long box joints, it always ends up going off as the slight error in tolerance accumulates. Perhaps a factory made one will have the best accuracy.
-Jeff :)

Index style jigs provide the builder a number of opportunities to induce errors when they make joints

They cut a slot in the fence for the index pin but then change blades or change the dado stack slightly before cutting the joint
They make the index pin a bit too wide for the slot. But instead of trimming the pin to the exact size of the slot, they widen the slot which is easier- YOU CAN'T DO THAT.
They compound the previous two errors when they set the blade to pin spacing incorrectly.

For an index pin style jig to work properly- the width of the dado blade or router bit (actual width of the cut, NOT the advertised width of the blade/bit), the blade/bit-to-pin spacing, and the pin width, must ALL be EXACTLY the same! The independent variable is the width of the cut made by the blade/router bit. The minutest change, as little as .001", in that requires the other two variables (bit/blade-pin spacing and pin width) be adjusted accordingly.