Spalted Maple Natural Edge

[James Combs]

Thought I would try a natural edge bowl again. The last time I tried a natural edge most of the edging flew off and I ended up with the three winged bowl I dubbed the "Tulip". Had a little be better luck with the natural edge this time but will have to polish up on my finishing. I was going to finish it with CA so I didn't give any thought to impact/effects of CA runs on the unfinished surfaces when I was sealing the natural edge. Should have taken it off the lathe and held it natural edge down until the CA set. Oh well live and learn.

151700
This is its best side. Very little evidence of CA runs.

151701
Here you can see two runs at about 2:00 and toward the center. Looks like a couple finger shadows.

151702
This side isn't too bad except for the dark blotch at about 1:00.

151703
Same side as the first photo but from the bottom.

151705 151706
Here is a shot of the inside and a close-up of the natural edge.


Please, your comments and constructive criticisms are encouraged.

Edit: forgot to add the size. It is 6" across it's widest top point. About 4.5" tall. Side wall thickness ranges from 1/8" to 3/16". The base is about 1/2" Thick.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Really a nice looking HF James. I was told those with that shape are called birds mouth since it looks like a young bird ready for momma to feed.

[James Combs]

Really a nice looking HF James. I was told those with that shape are called birds mouth since it looks like a young bird ready for momma to feed.

I can buy that.:)

[Steve Schlumpf]

Very nice form James but I have to ask what tool you used for your finishing cuts on the inside? Reason I ask is that it looks like you had some tear out problems. Could just be the photo and the way the wood is catching the light...

[James Combs]

Very nice form James but I have to ask what tool you used for your finishing cuts on the inside? Reason I ask is that it looks like you had some tear out problems. Could just be the photo and the way the wood is catching the light...

I have a midi carbide tip tool using a round insert. I kind of use it as an all around tool. There were several areas in the wood blank that were very punky so yes there was a fair amount of tear out especially on the inside. My 80 grit finishing tool:eek: took care of most of the outside but seem to have less effect on the inside. (or perhaps the user got lazy:D) What tool would you recommend for the punky stuff. I seem to be running into a lot of it.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Punky wood is always a challenge and each piece seems to be different.

For me - I use a bowl gouge, freshly sharpened and use very light cuts. If the wood still doesn't cooperate - then you have a couple of options. One is to use some type of glue or epoxy cocktail that soaks into the wood and then hardens - giving you something to cut. The other option is to throw the punky wood out and grab something solid to work with.

Good luck with it the next time!

[John Keeton]

JD, good effort on this one! Since I don't do pens, I have not worked with CA as a finish. I do use if for repairs, etc., but one has to be careful as it sure can mess up an otherwise good finishing job.

On the tear out, in my limited turning experience, it seems maple can be really contrary sometimes with endgrain tearout - even if it is not punky. The shellac soak prior to a finish cut does seem to help some. Also, it seems the along with tearout, there is some bruising that occurs, and that can be visible even after the tearout is seemingly gone.

I think Steve has the answer - as you approach a final cut, stabilize the wood with something, and use a very sharp tool and light cuts.

[dan carter]

When I've had tear out like the inside of your bowl, I've reversed the direction of the lathe and turned it in reverse and have had pretty good success. You might try reverse turning next time you have an issue like this one.

[Prashun Patel]

I've found spalted maple extremely difficult to achieve uniformity on. The density and porosity just changes too discretely and unpredictably - in pockets. You can't always feel them until it's too late and a couple coats of finish have been applied.

On a flatwork pc I just made, sandpaper was the best route. Might that work for you?

Shellac worked pretty well for me to stabilize some of the punky areas. Have others had a similar experience?

[Mike Minto]

James, that is a nice NE bowl. The color of your maple is so different compared to what i've turned here in eastern VA - what type of maple, if you know, is that?

[James Combs]

Punky wood is always a challenge and each piece seems to be different.

For me - I use a bowl gouge, freshly sharpened and use very light cuts. If the wood still doesn't cooperate - then you have a couple of options. One is to use some type of glue or epoxy cocktail that soaks into the wood and then hardens - giving you something to cut. The other option is to throw the punky wood out and grab something solid to work with.

Good luck with it the next time!

Thanks Steve, I will be trying a white glue mix on my next one. If I throw out the punky stuff I will be throwing away over half my raw inventory.:eek:


JD, good effort on this one! Since I don't do pens, I have not worked with CA as a finish. I do use if for repairs, etc., but one has to be careful as it sure can mess up an otherwise good finishing job.

On the tear out, in my limited turning experience, it seems maple can be really contrary sometimes with endgrain tearout - even if it is not punky. The shellac soak prior to a finish cut does seem to help some. Also, it seems the along with tearout, there is some bruising that occurs, and that can be visible even after the tearout is seemingly gone.

I think Steve has the answer - as you approach a final cut, stabilize the wood with something, and use a very sharp tool and light cuts.

I know what you mean by "bruising" have had similar experiences and it seems worse with CA finishing. However, I will continue to try using CA because I don't have to wait for the finish to dry and when it works it works great.:p


When I've had tear out like the inside of your bowl, I've reversed the direction of the lathe and turned it in reverse and have had pretty good success. You might try reverse turning next time you have an issue like this one.

I would love to try the reversing approach but my lathe does not have reverse. Can do it on the outside by flipping over the vessel but that approach does not work for the inside. I am going to check though to see if I can add reversing switch to my lathe. I have a background in electronics. Will advise as to how it goes.:)


I've found spalted maple extremely difficult to achieve uniformity on. The density and porosity just changes too discretely and unpredictably - in pockets. You can't always feel them until it's too late and a couple coats of finish have been applied.

On a flatwork pc I just made, sandpaper was the best route. Might that work for you?

Shellac worked pretty well for me to stabilize some of the punky areas. Have others had a similar experience?

Sandpaper is my 80 Grit finishing tool I refereed to earlier.;)

[James Combs]

James, that is a nice NE bowl. The color of your maple is so different compared to what i've turned here in eastern VA - what type of maple, if you know, is that?


I am not sure of the species. It came from a friends front yard so I am sure it is one typically use as shade. It is fairly soft so I don't think it is any of the hard maples.

[Charlie Reals]

I am not sure of the species. It came from a friends front yard so I am sure it is one typically use as shade. It is fairly soft so I don't think it is any of the hard maples.

It looks identical to what we call big leaf maple. What I have is heavily spalted and I am running into the same finish problems. This thread got started at an opportune time. I have found 60 grit sandpaper in reverse is a very good start then sand in reverse through 100 grit straightens it out. That and a lot of CA.
Chaelie