Sharpening help

[Dan Cannon]

Ok, if you've read any of my other posts, you know I don't even have a lathe yet. So that leaves me to sit and think about everything I'll need once I DO get it. One of my concerns is sharpening the tools on a very limited budget.
I'm hoping I can learn to sharpen on a bench grinder without a jig, or at least just a simple one I can make. But I'm getting conflicting reports on the diamond/stone honing blocks. I've heard some say they basically just use the grinder to sharpen and get back to turning. Others (local WC) have told me to NEVER use the grinder unless there is damage to the chisel or if I need to change the grind for some reason, but to use the stones instead for regular sharpening.

So how do you guys/gals all handle it? Do I need to spend a bunch of money on the stones/blocks for honing, or is a bench grinder sufficient for now??

Thanks,
Dan

[Tim Rinehart]

A little over a year ago, I started turning. I, like you, was trying to keep investment minimal (didn't even know what a vortex was, or SMC for that matter), but I found this site.... http://aroundthewoods.com/sharp.shtml

This is home-made jig I've been using for the past year or so, and it works great. I get repeatable grinds with my bowl gouge, the hardest tool to sharpen free-hand.

I really want to get a Wolverine...just hasn't been a big priority, and the homemade jig works. Take a look and if you have questions, feel free to PM me for more details on mine.

I think using a grinder is fine, and most turners I know agree. There are some 'honing' advocates, and if that works for them, cool. Saves a lot of steel, but I find the grinder gives quick repeatable edges.

One note, it is best to use slow-speed grinders (1450 rpm I think is correct speed from memory) with aluminum oxide (typ white) wheels, as these run cooler and are perfect for grinding turning tools in particular.

[Wally Dickerman]

Dan, you DO need to use a grinder if you're going to turn wood. When you use a scraper, the burr that's raised by the grinding wheel is a must. For most cutting tools, gouges, etc. most turners just put a new edge on by using the grinder, then go back to turning. The skew is the only tool that must be honed to get the sharp edge that's needed. Some will do a little honing on gouges but it's not necessary IMO.

Wally

[Andrew Kertesz]

A slow speed grinder is usually 1725 rpm, and can be had various places for less than $100.00. Grizzly has a wet grinder for $90.00 plus shipping. Each method has their own camp. If you go with a grinder, you can find plans on line to make a Wolverine copy cat to mount under your grinder. Takes a couple of hours and some scraps of 3/4" plywood and other hardwood. I used hard maple for mine, repeatability s the key to sharpening.

[Brendan Stemp]

I am a full time woodturner and reckon I have tried every grinding/sharpening system known to the turning world. I still prefer freehand sharpening on a bench grinder with an 80grit aluminium oxide (white) wheel. All the other jigs and wheels sit idle for most of the time. So, buy a 6" bench grinder and put a white wheel on it and practise sharpening freehand. This is what Richard Raffan showed me about 25 years ago and I am still using this technique despite many other experimentations.

[Richard Madison]

A "low speed" (1725 rpm) bench grinder, prefer 8", will be adequate and sufficient. For those skilled in freehand sharpening, that is certainly easier and faster than using a jig. But for the novice who is more interested in learning to turn, a sharpening jig is almost a necessity. As mentioned above, a suitable sharpening jig can be built at home for very little (if any) cost from plans available on line. One additional requirement is a dressing tool for grinding wheels, and a variety of these is available. The best value in these (IMO) is the simple $15 Tee diamond dresser tool, available from several sources.

[Reed Gray]

As far as not taking your chisels to the grinder unless they have serious damage, that applies to bench chisels, and plane irons. You need a grinder for your lathe tools. You can sharpen without a jig, which I do not exclusively. There is a You Tube video of Mike Mahoney doing it with his gouges, but you can do all gouges, including the swept back grind ones once you set the table angle. It isn't too difficult to make your own.

robo hippy

[Jon Hutchinson]

I don't have anything of value to add to this thread - I've been thinking about investing in a variable speed grinder, but haven't taken that leap yet. I use a vertical 1" x 42" Delta belt sander for sharpening. It works great for most tools, especially since I welded up a jig that allows me to vary the angle. Anyone else out there using a vertical belt sander for sharpening? Using it for bowl gouges has proved tricky, at best.

Jon

[Dave Ogren]

I used a belt sander for over a year. Bought a 8" slow speed grinder last fall and also the SharpFast system. Just started using them a few days ago. WOW what a difference, I don't know why I waited so long. 2 weeks ago I attended an Alan Lancer demo about honing, and raising a burr with a 3/8" dia. carbide. The finish that he gets eliminates a lot of sanding. That is next for me.

Good luck

Dave