How to clean brass plumbing fitting???

[Kent A Bathurst]

I can do plumbing. Never had a joint leak in copper/solder. PVC is a different (long + funny) story. I am replacing tub + shower operating items. There is a hand-held shower unit in addition to the normal above-your-head shower unit and the tub spout.

There is this odd brass fitting that I've never seen before, and want to use again - it ties supply, both shower units and the spout all together. One outlet went to galv pipe, the others to copper, the guy did not spare the plumber's putty.

Here's what I need help on: Is there some solution/solvent/acid that I can put this brass fitting in, and clean the galv rust and the residual putty out? I'm looking for fire-and-forget, not scrub-scrub-scrub. For one fitting, I will put my tree-hugger-greenie badge in the drawer as well, if that matters.

[Bill LaPointe]

A wire brush in a drill press works great.

[Craig D Peltier]

Ive seen plumbers just use sandpaper on smooth pipes. Like sink water supply copper pipes.

[Paul Ryan]

Kent,

I would try vinegar. It works great for brass on plane parts and it is "green". I will require a little scrubing after a soak but not much.

[Jeremy Milam]

I'm going to watch this thread. Not to hijack, but I have to tie new copper lines into old copper that's been painted. I know that I have to get the paint off the part that's going to be sweated. Right now I'm thinking sand paper, utility knife and/or steel wool?

[jerry nazard]

I'm going to watch this thread. Not to hijack, but I have to tie new copper lines into old copper that's been painted. I know that I have to get the paint off the part that's going to be sweated. Right now I'm thinking sand paper, utility knife and/or steel wool?

Had to do that several years ago: pipe was against foundation wall and had 7023 coats of paint on it. Strips of alum oxide paper made quick work of it and left it ready to solder.

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm going to watch this thread. Not to hijack, but I have to tie new copper lines into old copper that's been painted. I know that I have to get the paint off the part that's going to be sweated. Right now I'm thinking sand paper, utility knife and/or steel wool?

Do not use steel wool prior to soldering copper pipes. Any steel whiskers that get left in the joint will rust and cause leaks.........Emery cloth is good for cleaning really corroded piping. otherwise use a stainless steel fitting brush.

Regards, Rod.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Not to hijack, but I have to tie new copper lines into old copper that's been painted. I know that I have to get the paint off the part that's going to be sweated. Right now I'm thinking sand paper
HF and Lowes sell the same rolls of emory cloth made for cleaning copper pipe.
The HF one is about 1/3 the cost for twice the length.
Cut a small strip and start use it like you were buffing shoes with a rag..

It's a slow tediuos process if the pipes are close to a wall.

BTW - when/if you go to HF to pick it up, get one of the small dental type mirrors they sell also.
You'll need it to inspect the backside of the pipe if it's on the wall.


& yes - scraping it with a knife first goes a long way towards getting a lot off prior to sanding.



Re: the OP.
If you know anyone that reloads ammo & they have a case vibrator, that makes easy work out of cleaning anything brass. I use mine to clean off brass hinges all the time. Toss them in, turn it on and come back to it a few hours later - voila' - nice bright clean brass w/no sweat at all.

[Prashun Patel]

If you can remove the fitting and if you can take out any seals/gaskets, you can boil the part in vinegar.

I'd still abrade it with emery cloth after, and I would use a quality flux.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Kent.

Give good old BRASSO a try. It is available at Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Brasso-Multi-Purpose-Metal-Polish/dp/B000VP7IYA), but hardware stores should have it also. Check out the reviews on Amazon for usage.

[Kent A Bathurst]

If you can remove the fitting and if you can take out any seals/gaskets, you can boil the part in vinegar.

I'd still abrade it with emery cloth after, and I would use a quality flux.


There we go. It turns out it has a name - a twin ells. All three joints are threaded - the galv pipe rust deposits are inside, the threads are in fine shape, and after I close up the drywall I don't give a tinker's dam what the outside of the fitting looks like.

Thanks for the ideas, guys. Much appreciated.



http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/tubshowerpart-twinell.jpg