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View Full Version : Trim Time - Should I use Pine or Fir



Kevin Herber
05-26-2010, 5:43 PM
I am installing a Fir T&G ceiling with a clear poly finish. Now time for trim. I am using 1/4 round. Will pine retain a similar color to fir over time with the clear poly finish, or should I go ahead and use Fir?

If I go with pine, what visual differences, if any, can I expect over time (darkening, color changes, etc) ?

Fir is about twice the cost of pine.

John Keeton
05-26-2010, 6:40 PM
Kevin, even with twice the cost I doubt the overall cost difference would justify taking a risk on the concerns you have stated. You have gone to a lot of effort to do a first rate job. It would be shame if 2-5 years from now every time you look up, you ask yourself "why didn't I pay the extra and go with fir?"

More to the point, I think you will be able to tell a difference in the pine and fir, but whether it is noticeable at ceiling height is questionable. But, then, I would go with fir without question.

Steve Schoene
05-26-2010, 8:17 PM
Have you already applied the poly?

Ron Jones near Indy
05-26-2010, 8:29 PM
I believe John nailed this one.

Scott Holmes
05-26-2010, 9:41 PM
I have the same question as Steve... Have you already applied the poly?

If not you should seriously reconsider your choice of finish.

Poly is best suited for floors, extreme abrasion resistance. No one will be walking on your ceiling. Pine and fir both look exceptional with a shellac finish, I like garnet on pine... you may want to reconsider.

Shellac is optically clear, it is color fast, therefore it will not yellow and can be touched up or recoated at any time. Poly on the other hand has many, not so good traits...

Kevin Herber
05-26-2010, 11:06 PM
Thanks for the quick and informative replies. I am leaning toward fir too. I have not applied the finish yet and will rethink towards shellac.

I have never used shellac before. Is it brushed/rolled on like the poly would be? I've seen where folks have used shellac flakes and applied on furniture, but I do not have any idea on how to do it for the ceiling.

Are there application ready versions? Is there a special cut I should use? What should I look for when I go to the store? Is there a brand you can recommend?

Lots of quesions but we have ventured into new territory for me.

Thanks again.

Neal Clayton
05-26-2010, 11:47 PM
douglas fir and most yellow pines are similar trees, but the pine can have alot more variance in color, due to the darker growth rings. the pine will darken with age, but maybe not as much as the fir, depends on sap content. if you wanna be sure, match the species, imo.

Scott Holmes
05-26-2010, 11:58 PM
It is best to spray shellac, by spraying, you can get an even coat with no brush marks. Shellac dries very quickly, so brushing can be a learning experience. Don't learn on your ceiling.

Brushing or padding it on a ceiling would be a big job. Using a roller is out of the question.

You can purchase premixed shellac at the big box stores. Aersol cans are a ~1# cut of dewaxed super blond or clear shellac. The Zinsser Seal Coat is a 2# cut of dewaxed super blond. The clear and amber are 3# cuts of shellac that still has the wax in it.

If the ceiling has not been installed yet pre-finishing it will be much easier.

Kevin Herber
05-27-2010, 1:22 PM
Yo boy. Unknowns are popping up at the last minute. The ceiling has been installed and I do not see a way to spray it. Are there options other than shellac? What can I expect if I were go stay with poly? I only say that because I am familiar with it.

I am still open to other suggestions, but unfortunately I am not in a position to spray this.

Neal Clayton
05-27-2010, 8:07 PM
the thing with the shellac is it dries so fast it won't get a chance to sag/run as much as slower drying finishes would. gravity is working against you here ;). you might try putting it up with a floor mop (the lambswool ones they have at HD in the tool rental dept).

Scott Holmes
05-28-2010, 1:21 AM
I go with a non poly varnish applied with a foam roller and "tip off" as soon as it's applied.

Tipping off is using a quality brush at close to 90 degrees and lightly and slowly dragging it with the grain to smooth the finish and pop all the bubbles the roller leaves behind.