Change Table Saw RPMs with "gear" pully

[Dennis Lopeman]

I wanna say that I've asked this before!! At least I meant to!

I was at Grainger last week (new motor for A/C) and saw this pulley in the catalog. It's like the speed changing kind you see on drills. I was trying to find a quick picture on grainger but can't seem to find it now.

My TS burns cherry all the time and was wondering if I could reduce the speed with one of those things.

I hope I explained that right.

TIA

[Joe Chritz]

If the pulley would fit it will slow it down.

However, if you are burning cherry it isn't the speed it is something else.

The blade is the first suspect along with alignment. An aligned saw with a sharp blade made for the cut (not ripping with a cross cut) won't burn.

Joe

[Van Huskey]

If the pulley would fit it will slow it down.

However, if you are burning cherry it isn't the speed it is something else.

The blade is the first suspect along with alignment. An aligned saw with a sharp blade made for the cut (not ripping with a cross cut) won't burn.

Joe

Agreed, you are treating a symptom for which blade speed is not the cause.

[glenn bradley]

+1; correct the problem. Don't try to mask it ;-)

[Josiah Bartlett]

Changing feed speed and changing blade speed do more or less the same thing. Assuming your blade is aligned properly and sharp (sounds like one or the other isn't), then speeding up the feed is the same as slowing down the blade as long as you don't bog out your motor.

[Dennis Lopeman]

YOu know - it is a Freud combo blade... Sorry guys - I see things and then I think of things I can use them for!! I'm a backwards engineer!!! LOL

[Don Jarvie]

What kind of saw? Is cherry the only wood or do other hardwoods do the same?

Add a Thin kerf blade perhaps?

Follow the suggestions about the saw setup and go from there.

[Rick Potter]

You already have your answers, but, I will answer about the blade speed anyway. The easiest way to slow down your blade speed is to use a smaller blade, like a 7 1/4". They make some nice ones now.

Rick Potter

[Karl Card]

You already have your answers, but, I will answer about the blade speed anyway. The easiest way to slow down your blade speed is to use a smaller blade, like a 7 1/4". They make some nice ones now.

Rick Potter

I feels so stupid when the easiest possiblities are in front of you and I still dont see them... glasses dont help either...lol

[Dennis Lopeman]

Thanks Guys!

Lemme quickly answer:

I have a thin kerf blade - Freud - combo - 40tooth I think? I'll change it!

7 1/4" - cool - I have some of those I got on sale from some BORG - freud's too!

All hardwoods experience it... due to what you guys are already saying... and I proly need to sharpen/clean my blades, too!

I forgot to mention that I would also like to cut aluminum sometimes, and I think when I was making my router fence (you can find my thread somewhere) I was cutting the aluminum part and little bits seemed to melt into the metal cutting blade I used. I thought, GEE, it would be nice if I could just slow the blade down!! (or use my ShopSmith... hmmmmmm)

[Dennis Lopeman]

I feels so stupid when the easiest possiblities are in front of you and I still dont see them... glasses dont help either...lol

Oh yeah - I just hit the big 4-oh a couple months ago... and I need glasses now! Right on schedule!

[Stephen Cherry]

alignment- I have an el cheapo blade that dosn't burn cherry if I run it through strait, but the blade and fence are ligned up with the slot.

it's easy, line up the fence with the slot, then the blade to the fence, using only one tooth of the blade.

[Don Jarvie]

You didn't say what kind of saw you have. If you put on a new blade and it still happens either the saw is misaligned or under powered.