Dresser pics and need advice - PLEASE!!!!!

[Mike Tempel]

Really need some finishing advice as I am quickly approaching that stage of my project. This is made from QS red oak. I took inspiration from a magazine but changed some things to fit my style and dimensions. I would like to make the top, mirror frame, base, and knobs darker than the rest so I suppose I need to dye those parts. I understand I will have to fill the grain before I start any finishing. All of this I have never done before as this is my first attempt with QS red oak:eek: . Also, I would like for the grain to pop out at you and would like to have the top have a deep reflective finish like looking at it through glass. It will need to be durable as this is for my 8 year old daughter. I don't have the equipment or space to spray so this will all be hand applied. Oh yeah, I have about a week to get it done then I have to go back to work :( . Thanks in advance for your help and advice. :o :o :o

Mike

[Scott Coffelt]

I just finished a chair from QS Oak. I sanded to 320 and then stained with Watco, Dark Walnut and then 3 coats of wipe on poly and finally a coat of dark brown wax.

I left the grain as it is really nice on QS Oak.

See this link

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=13498

[Mike Tempel]

I have heard that oil should be used lightly or not at all with red oak as it soaks it up only to weep it out over time. As I don't have the time to wait for it to dry itself should I avoid oil altogether? What about shellac? Will I get the same pop from shellac?

[Steve Cox]

You don't ask for much do you? :) First, let's talk about protection and durability. What are you protecting the dresser from? Scratches? They're gonna happen and the higher the gloss and smoother the finish, the more readily apparent they will become. Water? This isn't in a bathroom or kitchen so how much water will there be? (my kids haven't gotten to 8 yet so I don't know the answer:o ) You don't have the ability to spray so the finish needs to be applied with a brush or with rags. You are probably relegated to oil, an oil/varnish mix, varnish or shellac. Any of the oil containing choices will "pop" the grain. You know, as I write this I think that varnish might be your best bet. If you put enough coats on (7-9) your top will be as shiny and reflective as you could want. It is quite durable (think wood floors) and you could get close to finished in a week with maybe a couple more coats to go. The sides would not need the same level of finish as the top if you don't want to go that far. I think I would start with a coat of boiled linseed oil followed by a split coat 50/50 varnish and thinner and then build from there. There are lots of ways to apply varnish and I would suggest you look online and see if you find one that makes sense to you and come back here to talk about it. BTW there is no real need to fill the pores first with this method.

[Don Stanley]

Very nice looking dresser. Your daughter is a lucky girl!

I just completed the restoration of this old turn-of-the-century dresser. I belive the dresser is white oak, but the new top is red oak. I used MiniWax Golden Oak stain with Semi-Gloss Polyurethane for the finish. I also used MiniWax wood conditioner. I think this is a good idea weather you need it or not, because the process removes any dust you may have left behind. The Polyurethane was mixed 50/50 with thinner to create a wipe-on for the first two coats. I followed that with two coats with full strength Poly, with 7-10% thinner. Be sure to use a good quality china bristle brush. After the wipe-on, I sanded between coats with 320 grit paper.

If you plan to put finish inside the drawers, I recommend using clear Shellac. It's my understanding that Polyurethane is not a good choice as the odor can be absorbed by clothing.

http://home.comcast.net/~kc7cn/antiquedresser/GPdresser5.JPG

-Don

[Brian Knop]

Here is a picture of a project that I made for my wife last year. It also is made from quarter-sawn red oak. (I really like the stuff) I filler the grain, then put on a clear coat shellac then two or three coat of Garnet shellac, followed by three coats of lacquer. Also Jeff Jewitt has some great information on finishing quarter sawn old at http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/index.htm

[Keith Christopher]

I have to go with Dmarks on this one tung oil, poly, linseed oil mix goes on wonderfully on WT oak. project looks awesome BTW !!!! Great Job !
however I think you need to clean the pitch off your blade. :D


Keith

[Greg Scott]

Brian,
Why put the clear shellac on before the Garnet and then 3 coats of lacquer? It seems like overkill to me, love the color of your project.
Greg

[Dick Parr]

I have never had a problem with Minwax wepping after I put it on, but I do wait a full 24 hours before I use the Minwax hand rub poly finish on it.

[Bart Leetch]

I have to go with Dmarks on this one tung oil, poly, linseed oil mix goes on wonderfully on WT oak. project looks awesome BTW !!!! Great Job !
however I think you need to clean the pitch off your blade. :D


Keith

Keith


What are the proportions of this mixture? :)

Thanks.

[Steve Wargo]

Seal the piece with Garnet Shelac. This will not only give it the warm classic red oak tone, but highlight the grain. Then your free to apply poly after it had dried for a couple days. To get a deep reflective finish, you'll need about 5 to 7 coats of poly. I like to brush the first on and the sand with 400 by hand followed by wipe on coats and a buffing in between with white syntheic pads. I like the general finishes Urethanes. Stay away from the Waterbased Urethanes on this one or your oak will take on a purple tint. Of course you could always french polish the piece. If you get scratches then you just apply another coat of shelac. Hope this helps.

[Jason Tuinstra]

Mike, no need for me to chime in with finishing advice when you have all these experts. I just wanted to encourage you in the project itself. It's coming along very nicely. I'm sure your daugher will love it for many, many years!

[Thomas Walker]

Nice project. I like the drawer fronts & the proportion of the mirror.

But I'm mainly jealous of the back to back workbenches with full access on all sides!

[Keith Christopher]

Keith


What are the proportions of this mixture? :)

Thanks.Replied to your PM but I'll post it here also.

Taken from the WWW

http://www.djmarks.com/stories/faq/What_is_the_mix_ratio_for_the_Linseed_Oil_Tung_Oil _and_Urethane_46687.asp

His standard finish is a two-ingredient system: Arm-R-Seal (red can with linseed and tung oil) and Seal-A-Cell (green can with tung oill and urethane).

Keith

[Mike Tempel]

Thanks to all who responded to my plea for help. I have pretty much decided on how to finish the dresser but will be open to suggestions right up to the point I crack open the first can. I went to our local Rockler and have purchased a couple of cans of Zinnser Clear Shellac, a can of Bartley Dark Brown Mahogany gel stain, and a can of the high performance General Finishes gloss poly. I am planning on doing the mirror frame, top, base, and knobs in the dark mahogany. The rest will get the gloss poly so there will be a contrast between the colors. I hope it turns out OK.

Once again, thanks to all who responded. Your advice is much appreciated.
Thanks again, Mike