Adjusting inset drawer fronts

[Terry Welty]

making a bunch of cabinets for bathroom and kitchen. Looking for a system to align the inset drawer fronts. I have heard that blum has an "align-o-matic" system that works well. I haven't been able to find out where to purchase them and if and how they work. Anyone familiar to the system and/or is there a better way to do them?????

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

Drill 1/4" holes in the drawer box and screw on with washer head screws. I get the screws from McFeeley's. I've used 1000's of the Blum adjusters in the shop I worked at, and find the washer head screws are much easier. What I like to do is "stick" the front on with double sided tape, then screw it on. By using shims or spacers, it's easy to tape it in the correct position. Then just open the drawer, and put in the screws. I use a double sided masking tape for applying golf club grips. It's very thin, so it's not seen once the screws are tightened.

[Steve Griffin]

I use the 1/4" hole/washer head screws as well. Except I measure to locate the 1/4" hole and a pilot hole in the drawer face. Actually, I use a pairs of spacer blocks to locate the holes. The drawer face one is 1/16 smaller.

I've used this method for years, but I might have to try Gerrys method next time.

-Steve

[Jay Jolliffe]

What would you say would be a good spacing around inset drawers & doors. Do you take in consideration the time of year you do the spacing ? Meaning up here in Maine right now the wood is drier than summer. Would you space a tad more now, knowing in the summer that will close the gap

[glenn bradley]

I use the McFeely's screws and leave about 1/16" but all my stuff lives in SoCal.

[John Bush]

I just made bathroom cabinets also and used a hot glue gun to hold the fronts in position, let it cool, then open and screw in from the back. You have a little time to scoot the front around to the right position. I was too lazy to cut shims. If you use more than a dot of glue the front can be a bit proud of the faceframe. Worked great for me. JCB.

[Terry Welty]

Thanks everyone, is this what we're talking about??

http://www.mcfeelys.com/screwlist.aspx?sclass=SRZ

[Jim Kirkpatrick]

These work even better. (http://woodworker.com/drawer-front-adjusters-mssu-135-992.asp?utm_source=google&utm_medium=feed)
And don't forget 2 templates (marking gauges) and a 20 mm forstner bit.

[David Werkheiser]

5/16" holes in drawer box and a pair of 5/16" dowel centers, use small strips of plastic laminate both std. grade and V32 thickness to use as spacers. Adjust shims for equal reveals around drawer head, tap drawer head with palm of hand to mark back of drawer head with dowel centers. Drill center marks with 1/8" drill bit and use washer head drawer screws of the correct length.
davew

[Kevin Groenke]

What I like to do is "stick" the front on with double sided tape, then screw it on. By using shims or spacers, it's easy to tape it in the correct position. Then just open the drawer, and put in the screws. I use a double sided masking tape for applying golf club grips. It's very thin, so it's not seen once the screws are tightened.

+1 on the tape and the washer head screws, we have 3M ATG 700's that get used for all sorts of stuff like this.

I think the tape/screw combination is good insurance against the fronts shifting later on.

You still can adjust later by giving the front a whack, but I've never had to. I gave the fronts pictured 3/32" gap before paint.

http://www.classic-crackers.co.uk/shop/images/uploads/atg-700-glue-gun.jpg
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_rHdeE-SI5cc/SLM7TXhOcDI/AAAAAAAAAF0/rJXIjQjiFKA/s576/P1020347-1.JPG
http://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.groenke/Kitchen#5238595995478945842

[Terry Welty]

These work even better. (http://woodworker.com/drawer-front-adjusters-mssu-135-992.asp?utm_source=google&utm_medium=feed)
And don't forget 2 templates (marking gauges) and a 20 mm forstner bit.
That's what I was origionally looking for... now I've got a ton of options. SIGH. Thanks!!