Stanley #3...A need to have???

[Walter McGuire]

Hello fellow Creekers,

I need your infinite wisdom...to save me from buying something I don't need.
I've been a woodworker for most of my life, but recently I've really been bitten by the Neanderthal bug...I even dream "Hand Tools" at night. Wow, what on earth is wrong with me, I'm addicted and need rehab. Anyway, I've been using a #4 for my smoothing purposes and it works great. should I snatch up a good #3 if I find a nice one, or is it simply a plane for those with tiny hands or looking to fill a spot on their till. I value your experience and welcome any sort of comments or advice.

Thank you so much.:confused:

[Jim Koepke]

There really is not enough difference to make it a must have.

If you make a lot of small boxes, doll houses or bird houses, then it may be a less cumbersome plane to use than a #4.

If you do a lot of furniture with drawers and panels, you may actually find a #4-1/2 to be a more useful addition.

All three sizes are in my accumulation and the #4 and #4-1/2 get used more than the #3.

jim

[John Gornall]

I think you have to try a plane to know if you like it. #3 is my most used plane. It just seems to feel right to me for all the tweeking woodwork needs - trim a drawer front, board edges, a little tearout, dovetails, door edges. I have Lie Nielsen, Clifton, and Stanley 3's and there's always one on the bench.

[Walter McGuire]

Thanks for the wisdom. Please keep posting your preferences on this topic. It sounds like I should buy a 4 1/2 and a #3, even if it's just to try out. If I get them at a fair price and don't like them, I can always use the parts or sell them.

Are there any other planes out there you find really handy that people tend to overlook? I have three no. 4's, a no. 6 and a no. 7...as well as a 9 1/2 and 60 1/2 block plane. I'm working on replacing my no. 5.

[Jonathan McCullough]

Overlooked? A router plane is most useful.

[Jim Koepke]

Are there any other planes out there you find really handy that people tend to overlook? I have three no. 4's, a no. 6 and a no. 7...as well as a 9 1/2 and 60 1/2 block plane. I'm working on replacing my no. 5.

+1 on the idea for a router plane or even two. A #71 and the #271 would be a good set.

A #79 is often inexpensive compared to other side rabbet planes.

You might consider a rabbet plane like the #78. I have the Record copy #778. It has a threaded adjuster that is a bit more to my liking than the lever or earlier hammer tap adjusted blade. Make sure it has all the parts.

Often it is the case that finding just a part can cost almost as much as a whole plane. Especially things like a rosewood knob and handle set. I even save the old broken ones in case a piece is needed to let into a broken knob or handle.

Other suggestions would not necessarily be in the overlooked category. Though occasionally they do come up now and then when now one else is looking and you can get a deal. Things like a #45 multi plane, #93 shoulder or modern equivalent, #98 & #99 side rabbet planes can be very useful at times. On the #98 & #99, get the ones with the depth stops. You will never see the depth stops sold later and they are not interchangeable between the two planes.

jim

[Don Dorn]

I actually use my #3 far more than I thought I would. I agree that it's a tweaking plane, but it's great for trimming drawers all the way around. Recently, I discovered that it was nearly custom made for double tapering such as the legs for a candlestick table. No jigs, no sanders, no planer gizmos, just afixed it to the bench (by putting bird mouths in dogs) and the #3 had the job done in about 5 minutes per leg. It also trimmed the cleat the top sits on so the top would be perfectly level. I wouldn't be without one now.

[jerry nazard]

I think you have to try a plane to know if you like it. #3 is my most used plane. It just seems to feel right to me for all the tweeking woodwork needs - trim a drawer front, board edges, a little tearout, dovetails, door edges. I have Lie Nielsen, Clifton, and Stanley 3's and there's always one on the bench.

Most of the above also applies to me, although I use a #4 more than a #3 for general smoothing. As Jim mentions, a 4 1/2 is great for drawers. I guess that John hits it on the head when he says that you just have to try it.

[Derek Cohen]

A little story about a #3 ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Commentary/BobsStanley3.html

Incidentally, I've been using this #3 with a HSS Mujingfang blade (from one of their woodies, but it is the same size as the #3 Stanley). It has the same issues as a common pitch plane, but ... oh oh oh ... the blades holds an edge forever!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Larry Marshall]

I think a #3 in your arsenal depends on what sorts of work you do. Certainly the #4 can work in all instances but if you do mostly smallish furniture projects (eg - Shaker tables vs bookcases), a #3 is a very useful smoothing plane. I have two of them that I use regularly. The smaller, lighter plane is wonderful for smoothing small pieces.

But I also didn't spend much for any of them (restorations). If you're talking about buying an LN#3, I suspect your money would be better spent elsewhere given that you have a #4 that you're happy with.

Cheers --- Larry

[Jim Koepke]

I actually use my #3 far more than I thought I would. I agree that it's a tweaking plane, but it's great for trimming drawers all the way around. Recently, I discovered that it was nearly custom made for double tapering such as the legs for a candlestick table. No jigs, no sanders, no planer gizmos, just afixed it to the bench (by putting bird mouths in dogs) and the #3 had the job done in about 5 minutes per leg. It also trimmed the cleat the top sits on so the top would be perfectly level. I wouldn't be without one now.

Pictures, pictures, we want pictures!!!

Sounds like a good trick to share.

jim

[Don Dorn]

Pictures, pictures, we want pictures!!!

Sounds like a good trick to share.

jim

Thanks Jim

Pic is the birds mouth that I put in the dogs to hold it at the odd angle. (Didn't have an actual leg so I used the template) Then, I just took the #3 and started at the narrow end and feathered backwards. When I got as far back as I wanted, I made full strokes until the small end arrived at the line.

Started out with 3/4 and took just a 1/4 from each side - took less time for all three than buliding a jig for the planer to do it.





http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n124/djdorn/2010_0522AE.jpg

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n124/djdorn/DSCF0002.jpg

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n124/djdorn/DSCF0001.jpg

[Rick Rutten]

I have a #3 & #4 1/2. The three is very useful for a light weight little plane to get things smoothed or easy to set to take a little bigger bite if needed. I find it very useful for smaller peices. I wear an XL glove so don't think hand size is an issue.

+1 for the router plane. I have a large LN. It has been pretty handy. Also a small low angle block and a #8 with extra weight.

Rick

[Dewald van Lamp]

Just get the # 3 and the router plane.

Then use it.

You know you want to, what more excuse do you need..?

:D

[Jim Koepke]

Thanks Jim

Pic is the birds mouth that I put in the dogs to hold it at the odd angle. (Didn't have an actual leg so I used the template) Then, I just took the #3 and started at the narrow end and feathered backwards. When I got as far back as I wanted, I made full strokes until the small end arrived at the line.

Started out with 3/4 and took just a 1/4 from each side - took less time for all three than buliding a jig for the planer to do it.


OK, that makes sense.

I was thinking the plane was mounted in the bird's mouth.

Nice looking table.

Did you also use a circular plane or a spoke shave?

jim

[Michael Faurot]

I've been using a #4 for my smoothing purposes and it works great. should I snatch up a good #3 if I find a nice one


Sure. There's no better way to compare which you like better than to have both and try them out side-by-side.

I find I like the #3 better than a #4, and hardly ever use the #4.



. . . or is it simply a plane for those with tiny hands or looking to fill a spot on their till.

From what I've seen, the #2 and #1 are where you get into totes that can not be gripped normally with adult hands. For that very reason I've not bothered with either a #2 or a #1. From talking to people that do have them, I typically find the reason they have them is so their children can use it.

[Chuck Nickerson]

I have a 3 and a 4-1/2. The blade in my #3 has a 10* back bevel. It's my plane for taming patches of tear-out without having to goof with the 4-1/2's set-up.