22.5 degree Face Frame Attachment

[Dan Chouinard]

Making a mahogany corner cabinet with two 22.5 degree outside corners. I have the front face of the frame attached with hidden fasteners. The stiles on each side were ripped to 22.5 and biscuit slotted in preparation to receive the end panels which of course have one stile that is also ripped at 22.5 and biscuit slotted.

Question is how do you guys like to pull those mitres tight together in perfect alignment WITHOUT blemishing the surface of the face frame? I am familiar with the use of pinch clamps for this procedure and love the way they work but they do of course dig in leaving small holes. These can be easily filled on a paint grade cabinet. With clear stock there must be some way to pull these together from the inside leaving the face blemish free.

Anyone care to share a trick?
Thanks,
Dan

[Jamie Buxton]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=14650&highlight=clamping

[Dan Chouinard]

Thanks Jamie, will try this method Sunday as I need to get this puppy out monday.

[Joe Chritz]

Doesn't help for a project that has to go Monday but I now have one of the HiPur hot melt glue gun systems. Using that 45 seconds stuff I have to hold it in position for 30 seconds with hand pressure. Works great on hard to clamp stuff and it is very strong.

Before that system I had decent luck with the packing tape trick.

Joe

[Dan Chouinard]

Hot melt. 1001 uses. I wont use it in this instance, but thanks for reminding about hot melt. Need to get a hot glue gun for the shop as it will certainly come in handy.

[Joe Chritz]

This isn't exactly hot melt craft glue, it is a hot melt reactive polyurethane. If it isn't as strong as yellow glue it is very very close. I would have no problem holding a face frame on with just the hiPur.

I also thought of another option but it requires machining first. There are 22.5 degree bits available with a tongue and groove so they can't unregister. Makes clamping very easy.

Joe

[Dan Chouinard]

Thanks for the heads up Joe. I will keep in mind for the next time.

[Terry Sparks]

Another way to solve this problem is to "borrow" a couple of emery boards from your wife, place them on the piece you want clamped and then place the clamp on the emery boards. I have used this method several times with out any slippage of the clamp and no dimples in the wood.

[Dan Chouinard]

Jamie,
I modified your hook clamp today and it worked great. The mahogany corner vanity had 9" flat panel wings on both sides that will return into the side walls. The end panels were 28" high so instead of making individual hook clamping jigs to pull the face frame and panels together I made a 3/4" plywood jig, 28" tall and 8" wide. Ripped a 2" piece of ply at 45 degrees and 28" long and screwed it to one edge of the 1st piece of ply forming a lip perpendicular to the face frame. The jig was clamped flush to the end panel stile with square edge, placing the lip 1" back from the glue joint. This leaves enough room to get a wet rag in there to wipe off the squeeze out. Used 5 biscuits, pushed the two stiles together and put on 5 clamps from lip to the inside edge of the face frame stile. Worked like magic, tight with perfect alignment.
Thanks for the idea,
Dan

[scott vroom]

Dan, do you have any pics of the clamp up you described? Picture tells a thousand words:)

[Steve Griffin]

Doesn't help for a project that has to go Monday but I now have one of the HiPur hot melt glue gun systems. Using that 45 seconds stuff I have to hold it in position for 30 seconds with hand pressure. Works great on hard to clamp stuff and it is very strong.

Before that system I had decent luck with the packing tape trick.

Joe

I used HiPur in a situation with a corner cabinet meeting two massive cabinets in a wine room. Worked wonderfully. HiPur ain't your grandmas holt melt gun which uses the waxy candles, but has near epoxy strength. I rarely use my brad nailer any more when applying molding/crown etc on the job site--HiPur, hand preasure and maybe some pin nails.

I've also attached corner cabinets with screws in the faceframe hidden where the door hinges. (Couldn't hide the screws in the open cabinet wineroom)

In most cases however, the solution is to not leave the outside corners, whether 22.5 or 45degrees for the the jobsite. I use the tape method to build the corner up in the shop, and leave another joint dry for the job site.

-Steve