Router Lift Plate Thickness

[James Malcolm]

Sorry for the newbie questions, but I truely am one.

There seems to be 3 or so main sizes of router / lift plates. 12" x 9", 8.5 x 11.75" and 9.25" x 11.75", or whatever they may be. My question is about the thickness of the plate. Is there some sort of standard? I've seen both 1/4" aluminum plates and 3/8" phenolic offered by a table top manufacturer for use in the same table. I assume that the leveling screws on the aluminum stick out an extra 1/8" in that particular instance, but if you were to order a different manufacturer's table with the same size cutout, would the depth be the same? I've also heard mention of corner radii being different, but that doesn't worry me as much.

The selection of CI extensions is very limited. I have access to a mill and have done this type of work before, so I can upsize a cutout as needed, but I'm concerned about making the cutout deeper for fear of weaking it. Been leaning towards a Jointech SmartLift Digital but just today thought that maybe I'd be better off with something like a Woodpeck PRL-V2 and a Wixey digital readout. Wanted a shaper but I'm think I'm going to wait a few years. 1-1/4" spindle tilting shapers aren't cheap, or light. Next step is to start emailing/calling companies.

[glenn bradley]

Since it sounds like you haven't made a commitment yet; my 2 cents worth:

Pick your plate / lift preference and your fence preference and then match your table to it. By this I mean that your plate or lift must fit perfectly in your table (corner radii are important) and other brands will not. Your fence "style" may also dictate your preference in table "style".

I use a very basic split fence that rides in slots in the very basic table (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=116927&d=1240946204). I run a Woodpecker PRL lift (3/8" thick). I used to run Rockler plates at 1/4" thick and never had any problems with them even with a Milwaukee 5625 mounted to one.

Priorities for me (not necessarily for you) are:

1 - Flat table supported adequately to avoid sag.
2 - Metal plate of lift that has several height adjustment locations.
3 - A reasonable fence that can be adapted for tall, split, low requirements. Supports featherboards, bit guard and stop blocks.

Oh yeah . . . lotsa variable speed power . .. argh, argh, argh.

[James Malcolm]

You make a point, but I'm going to use it in reverse of yours.

What I need to find first is a cast iron extension that will fit my left tilt saw. The Bench Dog supposedly doesn't work on the right side of a left tilt saw. I'm assuming it's because I would need to drill some new holes, but is there another reason you couldn't mount it on the right side? The MLCS has a 12" x 9" opening and I haven't yet found a lift that will fit. Besides Bench Dog and MLCS, who else makes cast iron extensions? Couple of a places thrown around in the past aren't offering suitable or unique products. I really don't want laminated MDF. Solid plastic would be acceptable if the quality is there. I could probably get one made out of plastic, but I dread the cost and quality.

If I'm going to use a digital readout, most any lift would work acceptably well so I need to find a table first, then a fence I like, and then pick a lift. Thanks for putting it into perspective :)

[Van Huskey]

Solid plastic would be acceptable if the quality is there. I could probably get one made out of plastic, but I dread the cost and quality.

:)

Why not a solid surface top on a MDF/Plywood base? You could get the router plate template (either make it or buy the proper one) then just cut and rout the Corian yourself.