How do you move logs?

[Jim Chan]

I want to be able to move logs from my driveway to my backyard. What's the best way to move them? I'm thinking the biggest log I'd encounter would be about 24" in diameter 8 feet long, and there is a slight downhill incline (but not enough space to roll them) to the back. I'm thinking a log arch might be the way to go. Not sure where to buy one of those though, any recommendations? Is it even realistic to handle those size logs without machinery?

I'm trying to get into milling my own boards, and am a total newbie to this. Any advice or where to look for tips about log handling would be helpful. :)

[Dave Cav]

Do you live on acerage, have trees, plan on doing this (and things like it)again? Buy a tractor.

Do you live on a large lot and this is a one time or rare thing? Rent a tractor.

(Preferably a reasonably modern diesel with a loader....)

[David Thompson 27577]

A log like the one you describe is going to weigh a lot -- probably more than 800 pounds. Even if you had a log arch, you'd still need some serious horsepower to drag it.

And once you got it to the back yard, you need a method of getting it onto the sawmill or sawbucks.

In my opinion, equipment would be very helpful. The alternative is to have three or four helpers with pickaroons and peavys. Using the peavys and some ramps, a small team could lift such logs.

[Jim Terrill]

We used these in high school, hooked to a pickup's towing hitch with chain. We weren't moving 24" trees though. All depends on the ground. A pickup over rocky terrain works fine, in the mud, no way.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307445_200307445

[Cody Colston]

I'd rent a tractor to move them or hire someone with a tractor to do it.

[Josiah Bartlett]

How about digging a trench and making a sluice? Just fill it with water when you want to use it. It could double as a moat for your house.

Or, move the tools to the log.

Or go to an equipment auction and get a couple of sections of roller conveyor and use those to move the log.

If you only do it occasionally you could get a bunch of short lengths of pipe or large dowels and use them under the log as rollers. A come along anchored somewhere in the back yard could do the yanking.

[Jim Terrill]

Or go to an equipment auction and get a couple of sections of roller conveyor and use those to move the log.

If you only do it occasionally you could get a bunch of short lengths of pipe or large dowels and use them under the log as rollers. A come along anchored somewhere in the back yard could do the yanking.

If you want to be really cheap, PVC pipe filled with concrete. That was what they used to roll a granite slab around our house, turning the pipes as needed to direct its movement. I wouldn't have the cajones to put a log on rollers if there is any incline at all though.

[Scott T Smith]

A log arch would be suitable for this type of task. You would want to be sure to tow it with something that had adequate braking capacity for the weight and incline, although smaller logs could be moved with a hand operated version. The nice thing about a log arch is that you can pick up the log at the balance point, and they are actually fairly easy to use.

Logrite Tools makes some of the best log arches, cant hooks, peavey's, etc available, and they would be my first suggestion. Do a web search on Logrite and you'll find them.

I would not recommend skidding the logs with the tongs, because you will embed dirt, rocks, and other particles into the bark, which will damage your saw chains, blades, etc. Although you can pressure wash the logs, this adds an extra step and it's not always easy to get all of the small rocks out.

Many timber-framers use a simple, shop built dolly for moving heavy beams around. Depending upon your budget (and volume of logs to move), it would not be that difficult to build one. You can always use an engine hoist (cherry picker) to pick up each end of the log to set it in the dolly.

The next step up from a log arch is usually some type of front end loader. This can be a skid steer loader, a farm tractor with a FEL on it, or a forklift. If the latter, you will want the off-road version so that it does not get stuck in your yard.

[Mike Cruz]

I use my John Deere 4500. But, I'll tell ya, my local mill flips what mine struggles with around with easy with a skid loader. Skid loaders take up less space than a tractor, and are really handy for snow removal, too. Of course, if you have any large areas that need mowing, the skid falls a little short in that department...

[David Helm]

I've been using a Peavy for decades. It is old technology, and requires some effort, but it does work.

[Ed Griner]

Have you considered calling the local "Woodmizer" person? It might be a little easier to move around back. Good luck/Ed

[Fred Perreault]

Make an acquaintance with a local that has a skid steer loader. Then they coud be easily placed up on skids off the ground and ready for processing. He will no doubt have forks. Offer him ca$h, or some kind of trade. Contractors always need hardwood planks for trailer decks and whatnot, and they can sometimes be the lesser quality from your saw logs. You ask "What's the best way to move them?".... Well, the best way can be defined several ways..... Cheapest? Safest? Quickest? If this is a part time endeavor, then rent, borrow or trade. If it is going to be more frequent, purchase is an option. Sit down and figure out where you are going with this. It's called a plan. There is no substitute for the emotional attachment to sawing your own logs, or logs from your area. However, that feeling comes with a $price$..... and it isn't cheap.

[Steve Milito]

I'd use one of these.
151197

[Mike Harrison]

Haul the logs to your local sawyer. It will cost maybe 25 - 35 cents a bf to cut, and if he has a kiln, another very few cents/bf to dry. While there look at whats needed to get the job done. THere is a fair amount of money tied up in equipment.

Call woodmizer and all the other saw mill manufacturers and ask for phone numbers of local guys, they'll gladly do it to help support those who bought from them.

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Woodworking/LogTractorlift.jpg (http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Woodworking/)

http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Woodworking/Johns%20Mill/ltour034.jpg (http://s670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Woodworking/Johns%20Mill/)
http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Woodworking/Johns%20Mill/ltour046.jpg
http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv62/mikeinkcmo/Woodworking/Johns%20Mill/ltour048.jpg

[Don Bergren]

Jim, what do you plan to mill your logs with? Woodmizer type setup, chainsaw mill, etc? As has been said, it's a lot easier to mill them on the spot if you don't own the equipment to move the whole log around.

A neighbor of mine uses a chainsaw mill to mill lumber with, and does it all on the spot. If doing a limited amount of milling, and using a chainsaw mill, it really isn't too bad to do. He's been doing it as a hobby for years, and has taken down some very big trees. He mainly uses a peavey and come-along to twitch his logs around.

[Jim Hoti]

just get some 1-1/2 or 2 inch pipe and cut it into 5-6 foot lengths...takes 4 if the log is straight...two at a time, move two, roll, move two....etc. If log is crooked takes more. When I was growing up, the building of Interstate 64 took 32 acres off my granddad's farm. We were allowed to cut the trees (we did it to make fence posts) was mostly black locust and red cedar. I was 11, my brother 13. The three of us (including Dad) cut more than 300 10-12 foot logs, rolled them to the truck and loaded them manually. Couldn't get a tractor back to where they were....so we used pipe to roll them and then lift one end on the truck and start sliding it into the bed. Did this every weekend for about 4 months....let me tell you, was LOADS of fun (does make you stronger though!). If your yard is grassy and fairly smooth, they roll easy. Oh, I just remembered, we used a digging bar as a lever to keep 'em rolling.

Good luck.

[Brendan Plavis]

Is it room in width the issue, or room at the bottom of the slope? If it is the later what about rolling them on PVC(concreted interior of course), but controlled by a winch. That way you can let it roll, yet, you can be in control..... Another option could be to teather them to a tree, using about 1inch thick wire, and letting them roll, that way they get jerked to a stop at the bottom(assuming they arent heavy enough to uproot the tree, and are sturdy enough not to split into projectiles when jerked to a halt....)

[Ken Burner]

Here is an arch designed for use with an ATV or small tractor: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200325611_200325611


Ken

[Jason White]

Rent a Toro "Dingo" or small Bobcat for half a day and drag them with chains or tow straps.


I want to be able to move logs from my driveway to my backyard. What's the best way to move them? I'm thinking the biggest log I'd encounter would be about 24" in diameter 8 feet long, and there is a slight downhill incline (but not enough space to roll them) to the back. I'm thinking a log arch might be the way to go. Not sure where to buy one of those though, any recommendations? Is it even realistic to handle those size logs without machinery? I'm trying to get into milling my own boards, and am a total newbie to this. Any advice or where to look for tips about log handling would be helpful. :)

[Jim Chan]

Wow, thanks for all the responses and suggestions! My house is in a suburban neighborhood, and fairly closely spaced with my neighbors. My original intent was just to get the logs out of view from the front yard and do my milling in the back. First, to not have too many curious eyes, and second to remove the eyesore from the front yard in case i don't have time to mill the logs right away.

From the sound of your responses, sounds like this is going to be way more trouble than it's worth though. I don't plan on milling many logs, just a few once in a while as the opportunity arises. I wish I had space for tractors and skid loaders, but those really aren't going to be options for the amount of space I have on my property.

Josiah -- I love the moat idea, lol. It might make a nice mill pond as well eh? Somehow, I have a feeling that might be against the neighborhood covenant rules though. :)

Scott - Thanks for the link to logrite, I think that may be my best bet if I really do need to move logs around my house. The fetching arch is pretty pricey though..! Unfortunately, i don't have access to a welder nor do I have the skills to build something like that myself. I think for now I'll just get a cant or a peavey to roll them around a little as needed.

I just bought a 36" alaskan mill recently, so I'm probably just going to try milling it on the spot for now. I should be getting a stihl 660 soon, and hopefully if things go smoothly, I may have my first log of black walnut soon. Can't wait to get started milling! :D

Thanks again for all the suggestions guys!

[paul a rowsell]

Move logs like this

[Greg Portland]

Another option could be to teather them to a tree, using about 1inch thick wire, and letting them roll, that way they get jerked to a stop at the bottom:eek: How were you planning on keeping the choker in place as the log barrels down the hill? What happens if the choker or cable snaps as multiple tons get "jerked to a halt" (you get sliced in half)? Have you tried to move around a 1" thick cable before?

Seriously, advice like this can kill someone.

[Mike Cruz]

Classic, huh, Greg? But the PVC would be filled with concrete...of course!

[Kurt Cady]

Shhhhhhh! He hasn't posted all month....

If we're all vewy vewy quiet...maybe he won't find his way back

[Willard Foster]

Can you quarter the log length ways (using a chainsaw) , then move it?

Bill

[Bobby O'Neal]

Make a buddy at your local power company. Our boom trucks will handle an 80' 5000lb pole and will surely make quick work of any log. Where I am at we may be a little laid back, but we "help the public" on a semi regular basis.


Bobby

[ken gibbs]

Cut the logs up where they are. Then carry the lumber to stack, sticker, paint the ends, and then dry.

[Jim Chan]

Well, I got my logs. :D I rented a dump trailer and dumped them into my driveway. 1000+lbs is a whole lot heavier in real life than on paper, ha ha. I'm glad you guys talked some sense into me, I wouldn't dare move those things another inch if I didn't have to! (And frankly, I don't think I can even if I wanted to, ha)

Here are some pictures.. :)

[Jon Lanier]

24" ? Just pick'em up and throw them over your shoulder. Do I have to think of everything?:cool:

[james bell]

The pipe solution is great, 1 1/2 or 2" PVC works well and you don't have to fill them with concrete. Five or six should work as you can keep pulling from the back and moving to the front, and a slight incline is good.

I moved my SawStop off my utility trailer (yes, down the ramp) with these, no problem.

[Ryan Hellmer]

Ditto on the pipes, as for getting them under the log, I've used a farm jack and chain for that. This is risky business so be careful. I used the pipe and come-along method to slide a 12' long 26" oak through the back door of a guys garage and up onto my trailer from his back yard. The calculator at woodweb had it over 1300 lbs. the comealong gives you nice control over the log, use bars and the pipe to steer. This is all in case you can't get a mill to your front yard. My mill has hydraulic loaders and is in NE Kansas if you need it.

Ryan