Grizzly T10222 Router Table Attachment

[Ray Bell]

Does anybody have experience with this table? It is listed in the Spring Sale catalog for $375, and states "for the G0691" saw which I have. In the catalog it doesn't say it is CI, but for the price it probably is. It seems to have several T-tracks on the face. Do you think this would be a problem with edges getting caught?

I do want to get a table saw router table attachment just to free up a little room in the shop.

Thanks for any advise.

[Van Huskey]

Does anybody have experience with this table? It is listed in the Spring Sale catalog for $375, and states "for the G0691" saw which I have. In the catalog it doesn't say it is CI, but for the price it probably is. It seems to have several T-tracks on the face. Do you think this would be a problem with edges getting caught?

I do want to get a table saw router table attachment just to free up a little room in the shop.

Thanks for any advise.

It is CI. Don't think you should have an issue with the miter slots if they are properly cast.

The only thing would say is I am not a fan of router tables that do not accept a lift and I certainly wouldn't pay $400 for one. My suggestion would be to build an extension wing, face it with malamine etc. PM, Delta and Sawstop all use this to good effect. Then cut it and put a quality lift in it, with the price of materials and miter slots etc you will have a much more functional router table for about the same price.

[Peter Aeschliman]

It is CI. Don't think you should have an issue with the miter slots if they are properly cast.

The only thing would say is I am not a fan of router tables that do not accept a lift and I certainly wouldn't pay $400 for one. My suggestion would be to build an extension wing, face it with malamine etc. PM, Delta and Sawstop all use this to good effect. Then cut it and put a quality lift in it, with the price of materials and miter slots etc you will have a much more functional router table for about the same price.

i hear that, although don't rule out buying a router than already has a lift built into it (ala Triton). The triton will require you to drill a hole in the cast iron top so that you can get the crank attachment through the table, but that shouldn't be too bad.

I haven't read the manual for the table, but I wonder how you mount a router to it. I.e., does it have pre-drilled holes?

[glenn bradley]

I'll echo Van's feelings. The product looks good and the fence sure look stout. I get the "feeling" of a production sort of a product; stout as can be but might lack the finesse required by we home shop enthusiasts.

I need my router table to do everything from delicate molding profiles to light weight shaper-like work so versatility is key. Many here are happy with this type of setup but, an absence of a plate/lift capability and a limited number of throat "ring" sizes wouldn't excite me.

I've been through a few iterations of router tables and am currently very happy with a none-to-inexpensive router (Mil 5625), lift (WP PRL) and just a plain old thick, discontinued Rockler table and fence.

As long as it is flat, the table is the least of my priorities in a router table. Power, adjustability, repeatability, dust collection and versatility are my top concerns.

[Van Huskey]

i hear that, although don't rule out buying a router than already has a lift built into it (ala Triton). The triton will require you to drill a hole in the cast iron top so that you can get the crank attachment through the table, but that shouldn't be too bad.

I haven't read the manual for the table, but I wonder how you mount a router to it. I.e., does it have pre-drilled holes?


I agree 2 of my tables have a Triton and Freud in them BUT I would not want to live without a table with a lift. A good lift is significantly better than a flipped plunge router even the ones designed for the function. If I was thinking of spending $650 dollars or so on the tale above and say a Triton I would rather have a PC 7518, One of 3 or 4 great lifts and a melamine topped extension wing with a miter slot. The price is gonna be very similar though a little more work but have a top flight router table. I would use the back side of my rip fence and set up a nice router fence.

[Ray Bell]

Thank you for all the replies. I have the Mil. 5625 now in my router table without a lift, although I have been looking at these lately. I have never seen a table with a lift, so you are saying these have to be specially made to accept the lift, which can be done using the melamine surfaced material?

[Van Huskey]

Thank you for all the replies. I have the Mil. 5625 now in my router table without a lift, although I have been looking at these lately. I have never seen a table with a lift, so you are saying these have to be specially made to accept the lift, which can be done using the melamine surfaced material?

First the 5625 is an excellent motor, my second fav. Take a look at the link below, you see the lift comes in a plate, you cut the melamine/MDF or ply table to fit. If you look further down the page they sell the routing template for the plate to make it easy to cut your top. The PRL is one of my favorite lifts and they make it to fit the 5625 without an adaptor.


http://www.woodpeck.com/precisionrouterlift.html


Knowing you have an excellent router motor to be used in a lift even strengthens the argument to go with a lift.

Below is a link to the Powermatic PM2000 that can be ordered with a lift in the extension table, in this case it is a rebranded Jessem also an excellent lift. You can also see how they use a melamine covered extension table very simlar to the Delta Uni and Sawstop PCS and ICS.

http://www.powermatic.com/Products.aspx?Part=1792001K&cat=332232

[Ray Bell]

Thanks Van, maybe the thing to do then is buy the lift, and then fabricate the table top to work with it.... going to research lifts.

[Van Huskey]

I think you will be happier in the long run.