PDA

View Full Version : Building A Pergola Over My Existing Deck



Daner Steel
05-19-2010, 1:49 PM
Hey Guys, I'm going to build a Pergola over my deck
Its 16' wide x 28' long.

To get the overhang effect I'm going to put post out from the brick wall
This way a 16' board will hang over a bit, It would be easier If the deck was only 14'.....Anyway, I'm wondering weather to change out the railing post and go up from there, or leave the railing alone and add 6x6 post just Inside the railing...I'm looking for some tips on this

Also I was going to use 2x8 for the tops and also for the beams laminated on either side of the posts

Any tips or comments are surly appreciated

The boards are going to run from the windows toward the stairs

Daner

Mike Whelan
05-19-2010, 3:03 PM
Nice looking house! If it were me I'd replace the railing with the posts and use that to put up a new railing. I don't think posts behind the railing would look right. To crowded maybe?

Daner Steel
05-19-2010, 3:12 PM
Nice looking house! If it were me I'd replace the railing with the posts and use that to put up a new railing. I don't think posts behind the railing would look right. To crowded maybe?

I have been thinking the same way...But I'm going to have to put posts away from the house wall, to get away from the sofit over hang, plus the deck Is 16' wide.

There are 4x4 post in that railing... I think I may use 6x6??

Mike Whelan
05-19-2010, 3:20 PM
you could mount a ledger board to the side of your house above the soffit and attach your joists to that. And I think since there won't be any loads on top then 2x8's will probably span your deck just fine. Others might disagree with that though.

Daner Steel
05-19-2010, 3:25 PM
you could mount a ledger board to the side of your house above the soffit and attach your joists to that. And I think since there won't be any loads on top then 2x8's will probably span your deck just fine. Others might disagree with that though.

Hi Mike, the only problem I can see with that Is Its over 16'
plus I would have to use joist hangers

Daner Steel
05-19-2010, 3:37 PM
Heres a better pic

If I did run the boards from above the sofit, they would have to be angled down a bit towards the railing.

If the boards came In 18' lennths I would be Ok:D

Thanks for you Input Mike

David Thompson 27577
05-19-2010, 7:38 PM
I agree that running a ledger above the soffits is not the right idea. Optimally, a ledger for a pergola would be at the height of the soffit, so that the rafters of the pergola would look like they are extensions of rafters in the roof structure.

And since your soffits and fascias are boxed (finished), that won't work.

It's difficult to tell from the pics what height the soffits are..... I would want to add a ledger to the house wall for one end of the rafters, and a two-post-supported beam for the other end of the rafters.

And those two posts would start about three feet below grade. They'd be incorporated into the railing structure, and would be notched to accept the beam that holds the rafters.

Both the beam ends and the rafter ends would be shaped in some way. And above the rafters would be some 2X2 or maybe 1X2 to add shade.


The attached pic is one that I did, added to a fenced-in patio that pre-existed.

(Note -- attaching a ledger to your house involves serious risk if you don't know what you're doing.)

Daner Steel
05-20-2010, 7:41 PM
I agree that running a ledger above the soffits is not the right idea. Optimally, a ledger for a pergola would be at the height of the soffit, so that the rafters of the pergola would look like they are extensions of rafters in the roof structure.

And since your soffits and fascias are boxed (finished), that won't work.

It's difficult to tell from the pics what height the soffits are..... I would want to add a ledger to the house wall for one end of the rafters, and a two-post-supported beam for the other end of the rafters.

And those two posts would start about three feet below grade. They'd be incorporated into the railing structure, and would be notched to accept the beam that holds the rafters.

Both the beam ends and the rafter ends would be shaped in some way. And above the rafters would be some 2X2 or maybe 1X2 to add shade.


The attached pic is one that I did, added to a fenced-in patio that pre-existed.

(Note -- attaching a ledger to your house involves serious risk if you don't know what you're doing.)

I need 6 posts for this job, The deck Is 28'

Also I cant use a ledger.... because the span Is 16' and there would be no over hang

To the top of the eavestrough to the deck Is 9'

I have no choice but to put 6 post In, 3 at the house side and 3 at the railing:)

If that soffit wasn't In the way and the deck was only 14' It would be a easy decision

Brian Backner
05-21-2010, 6:46 AM
Why should the 16' width be a problem? Any good lumberyard can order 20' or even 24' 2x's in virtually any species. One of he borgs nearby has 20' pressure treated stuff in stock.

Definitely go with at least 6x6 uprights - 8x8's would be even better - for the look. One of my neighbors has a relatively small pergola - maybe 12x20 and the posts are 12x12's with 4x12's for the main beams. Makes an incredible visual impression.

Brian
Taxachusetts

Bill LaPointe
05-21-2010, 7:37 AM
I have a similar pergola on my deck, but smaller, with posts as you describe. Will take pics later 'cause it's raining hard right now. Be aware that if your beams are not heavy enough you will get considerable sag in them. It doesn't hurt anything but looks awful. Will post pics later today. I built this one for my sister-in-law last year. Free standing, but ideas?

David Thompson 27577
05-21-2010, 10:37 AM
I need 6 posts for this job, The deck Is 28'

Also I cant use a ledger.... because the span Is 16' and there would be no over hang

To the top of the eavestrough to the deck Is 9'

I have no choice but to put 6 post In, 3 at the house side and 3 at the railing:)

If that soffit wasn't In the way and the deck was only 14' It would be a easy decision


OK, I see your points.......

And from a design/style perspective, you have other hurdles ahead too. If you use three posts, how will you incorporate them with the existing railing posts, still allowing for overhanging shaped tails? While maintaining any kind of symmetry?

One option that you might want to consider is to make the pergola smaller than the deck -- instead of 16X28, maybe it should be 16X16 (or better yet, 16 by whatever-dimension-takes it from the wall to the stairs....)

With that option, you could leave the grill and the umbrella table out in the sun, and put the other furniture under the pergola.

Just some ramblings......

David Winer
05-21-2010, 2:23 PM
"Hey Guys, I'm going to build a Pergola over my deck
Its 16' wide x 28' long."
__________________
Or, why not face it now? Your wife will eventually want to turn the deck into a screened porch. Just omit the pergola stage.

Daner Steel
05-22-2010, 8:55 AM
Hey Guys, Thanks for chiming In, At this stage I have all the 6x6 post In
And starting the beams today, In Between rain:rolleyes:

The post are built right In the railing, And at the house side, the posts are out from the wall about 16"
The top of the beams are at the same height of the sofit
And the struts should be near flush of the eavestrough.

My new question Is...What Is the best way to screw down the top Struts
(Rafters)???
I read that 1 , 3"x #10 screw screwed straight down from the top through the notched area??
To me It sounds like a bad place...Could someone please shed some light on this?

Notch the rafters ,or not?....I'm thinking the notchs will make the structure stiffer?

David Thompson 27577
05-22-2010, 9:48 AM
............

My new question Is...What Is the best way to screw down the top Struts
(Rafters)???
I read that 1 , 3"x #10 screw screwed straight down from the top through the notched area??
To me It sounds like a bad place...Could someone please shed some light on this?

Notch the rafters ,or not?....I'm thinking the notchs will make the structure stiffer?



Notches probably help with structure a bit, but only if they are snug.

Assuming your top struts are just 2X2's, then a 3" screw going straight down is fine. If they are taller than that, you'll need to toenail the screws -- run them in at an angle.