Abrasive paper recommendation

[Scot Roberge]

I finished a batch of six pens tonight - and it keeps getting harder because my finishing standards get a bit higher each time I go through the process. My finishing regimen for the last several batches has included sanding to 600 grit followed by 4 coats of CA/BLO followed by leveling with 400 grit, then 600 grit followed by 4 coats of spray lacquer followed by a final leveling with 400 grit, then 600 grit - before tripoli and white diamond buffing. Low and behold, when I examine the last batch of pens, I can see scratch patterns. Most of my pen recipients won't notice . . . but I do. I thought 600 grit was a safe enough jumping off point before buffing, but now I guess not. What is considered a fine enough abrasive paper to finish with before the tripoli?

[Bernie Weishapl]

I generally after 600 go to 1000 and then micromesh to 12000 from there before buffing. I either use a lacquer or a CA finish but not both. Have had some trouble getting it to look good. Sometimes if I think of it I will use abranet from 1000, 2000, 3000 and 4000.

[Chris Stolicky]

In my experience, 600 grit is usually fine.

A couple of possible things to note:

- Are you wiping the pen clean in between grits?
- Are you sanding laterally at all with the lathe off?
- Are you using worn out sand paper?
- Are you using wood that you have previous experience with? Maybe something is different about it?

Just some food for thought.

[Aaron Wingert]

Another thing to consider is are you using quality sandpaper? I used to use those "turners sanding packs" from woodcraft (and similar rolls of denim-backed paper) until I tried out some Norton 3X paper and learned the difference between cheap paper and quality paper. The cheap 600 grit was much less consistent and didn't cut as well, plus it left sanding marks of varying depths, which are nearly impossible to see until it is too late. Much less of a problem with quality sandpaper.

[Mike McAfee]

I've recently become a fan of the Norton 3X myself and see a big difference!

MMc

[David E Keller]

+1 for the Norton 3x.

I'm not sure how you are applying your CA, but 400 seems pretty coarse for sanding after CA. I usually wet sand 600 to level before proceeding to MM then plastic polish. (Sometimes I buff, sometimes not). Lots of ways to do the finish, but if you're not happy with what you are doing, try something else. There are a couple of good youtube videos on CA finishing if you are interested.

[Scot Roberge]

Good suggestions from everyone . . . THANKS!

Chris:

[- Are you wiping the pen clean in between grits?]
Yup

[- Are you sanding laterally at all with the lathe off?]
Yes. Rotary sand then lateral sand with every grit until any "rotary" scratch marks disappear. Are you implying that this should or should not be done?

[- Are you using worn out sand paper?]
Hopefully not. But I have been know to stretch it a bit!

[- Are you using wood that you have previous experience with? Maybe something is different about it?]
Yes and no. The scratches in question are in the lacquer, though, so I don't think this is an issue with the wood surface.

One other factor, might be that I have recently quit sanding between coats of lacquer. I've read that as long as you are leveling it in the end, you don't need to sand between each coat. I sprayed two coats about 30 minutes apart, waited 24 hours and repeated. What I am noticing is that the finish is not as hard (i.e. needs longer to cure) with such a rapid buildup. I might have leveled and buffed before it had long enough to cure.
My next batch will get one coat per day and sanding to 12000 - and more time.

[Another thing to consider is are you using quality sandpaper?]
I've been having good succes with the Rhyno paper from Industrial Abrasives. Anyone have a problem with Rhyno?

Thanks again!

[Karl Card]

personally i had that same problem and it was due to 2 things... me not sanding laterlly between each grade of paper, and sanding to hard. Meaning i was pressing on the paper to hard.

I now run thru the grits up to 600, I then either use EEE and then a french wax or I use sanding sealer for about 4 coats and then deft lacquer for about 2 coats and it is nothing but clear glass. I do not sand the lacquer but use EEE on it as a buffing compound.

James I think uses hut liquid wax and his stuff looks good, I however dont know how he does it cause when i use hut all it does is make it look like a mat finish..

Instead of spray lacquer I also use the petro based deft lacquer and basically just dip the blank in it and let it dry.

I also never use the same sandpaper twice. I buy it in rolls at www.supergrit.com (http://www.supergrit.com) very inexpeensive there and I just cut a very small piece each time I sand for each grade.

[Chris Stolicky]

Sorry, a bit behind here.

I was implying that lateral sanding is usually a good thing. However, I find that it is not always necessary.

I am another fan of the Norton 3x. I buy the sheets and cut them up in 1" wide by 5.5" long strips. It works really well for me.

Oh, I only sand between coats of CA if I see (or feel) grooves. Usually then, its only with 400 and then 600. I also use BLO to help smooth it out while I am applying it.

When I do have to sand with the CA, I wipe the blank down with DNA on a paper towel to help get any sanding particles left. It dries quickly.

Good luck.

[Scot Roberge]

[Instead of spray lacquer I also use the petro based deft lacquer and basically just dip the blank in it and let it dry.]

What do you use to seal the ends of the tubes and to prevent a "drip line" on the bottom of the barrel?