Table Saw Setup

[Brodie Brickey]

I've got an old right tilt Delta Cabinet saw with a cast iron router table on the left wing. Due to the garage setup, I really need to have the extension table on the left also. My current Uni-fence won't work for that configuration, not only to the holes not line up, but the rail system can't be bolted on that way. So a new fence system is going to be necessary.

Is anyone aware of any safety issues with cutting from the left side normally?

Any recommendations other than a bies? I've got an email into Incra to see if their system could work, but it doesn't look like it will.

[Van Huskey]

If it is a left tilting arbor then you will have the issues with mitered cuts you have with a right tilting arbor saw with the fence in the customary right side ie pinch/kickback

[Neal Clayton]

no reason to stop you from cutting from the left, you'll probably have to modify any fence to work that way, though, they're all designed for right hand mounting, afaik.

[Ray Newman]

Why don’t you just drill new mounting holes in the Uni-fence rail to move it to the left and then install a new tape measuring tape?

I‘ve seen saws where the Uni-fence was shifted to the left to accommodate a large extension or workshop space.

I once installed a sliding table on my Uni-saw and I drilled new mounting holes to shift the Uni-fence to the right so as not to cut the rail. If it is a right tilt , I can’t see why it is not feasible to drill new mounting holes on the far right end to mount the Uni-fence on the left side of the saw.

Van H: good call on the left tilt -- I keep forgetting that Delta now has a left tilt Uni-saw. Guess I've been around the older style Uni-saws for too long??

[Brodie Brickey]

Why don’t you just drill new mounting holes in the Uni-fence rail to move it to the left and then install a new tape measuring tape?

I‘ve seen saws where the Uni-fence was shifted to the left to accommodate a large extension or workshop space.

I once installed a sliding table on my Uni-saw and I drilled new mounting holes to shift the Uni-fence to the right so as not to cut the rail. If it is a right tilt , I can’t see why it is not feasible to drill new mounting holes on the far right end to mount the Uni-fence on the left side of the saw.

Van H: good call on the left tilt -- I keep forgetting that Delta now has the left tilt. Guess I've been around the old style Uniu-saws for too long??

It came down to the channel they have setup in the rail. I'd have to drill through 2 separate pieces of aluminum, at the correct height, plus I have 2 bolts that are embedded in the rail, I'd have to cut them off. If I ever moved the saw, I couldn't revert back to right hand.

[Ray Newman]

Brodie Brickey: must have changed the Uni-fence design.

My Uni-fence is model 34-897 (20+ years old).The mounting bolts or engine studs(?) attach to the Uni-fence aluminum rail by two nuts, “captured" in a track inside the mounting rail. The nuts slide into the track and when lined up with the holes, screw in the mounting bolts.

As for the spacing, I turned points on the two extra mounting bolts via drill press and a file. Then mounted these to the saw and measured the distance apart. Next, removed the aluminum rail plastic end caps, located the center of the inside track which holds the nuts, then drilled the two holes.

[Joshua Layne]

It came down to the channel they have setup in the rail. I'd have to drill through 2 separate pieces of aluminum, at the correct height, plus I have 2 bolts that are embedded in the rail, I'd have to cut them off. If I ever moved the saw, I couldn't revert back to right hand.

The Unifence rail hasn't changed design - I recently drilled extra holes for mine to mount the fence to an HD shaper next to my unisaw (actually drilled more than I needed because I changed my mind on the spacing) - you can get extra studs if you need and the inside nuts (which are fine thread) from delta, but there are expensive (~$9 each) - you could also just use allthread and dimple the threads above the inside nut.

It may be difficult to get out the existing studs, but it is possible using soft-jawed pliers or similar.

Also, the holes have some adjustment built into them, so just center the hole on that face and measure center-center, you'll be fine.

[Ray Newman]

Joshua Lane: yup Delta is a bit pricey for some of its replacement or extra parts.:eek:

Where I live, the local lumber yard/builder's supply house has a good hardware section. I found the replacement bolts/engine studs(?) and the fine thread nuts there. Just started opening the various self service drawers until I found what I was looking for.

If I recall, the total cost for the two bolts/engine studs and two nuts under US $3.00.:D

[Chris Rosenberger]

I used a Unisaw with a Unifence mounted to the left of the blade for several years. I never had any problems making any cuts. I drilled new holes in the rail to make the change. As others have said, the studs are held in with captured nuts. The studs will just unscrew. You could get a new Unifence rail. The new Unifence rails have a T slot that runs the full length of the rail instead of holes. The new rail can be slid to any location on the front of the saw. Amazon.com has them for around $154.
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-36-150-50-Inch-Table-Unifence/dp/B0001X21US?&camp=212361&linkCode=wsw&tag=wwwnorthwinda-20&creative=380797

[Joshua Layne]

You could get a new Unifence rail. The new Unifence rails have a T slot that runs the full length of the rail instead of holes. The new rail can be slid to any location on the front of the saw.

Um, right. What he said^ When I said it hadn't changed design, I meant from original release to the OP's design. It has of course changed since then... and would necessitate way less work in positioning the fence, but also ain't cheap.

j.

[Brodie Brickey]

If I replaced the rails or other main parts, I'd start seriously considering a new fence system entirely. Although the Unifence works pretty well, I have never felt like the fence locked in as securely as it should.

Last night I spent some time disassembling the setup. I'm going to move the saw back into the standard right side outfeed and see if I can work with it in the new configuration.