HF Bandsaw Motor just hums

[Tim Robert]

I don't know much about electric motors so I was hoping someone could offer some advice. I've done some research and I think it may be dead. The motor just hums when I turn it on. I took the belt off and then it will spin, just won't go with a load on it. I've read maybe a new starter capacity or the windings are shot. Figured this would be a good place to ask.

[Joe Shinall]

Tim, waiting for a call back from my father. he owns an electric motor shop and has been in the business for over 40 years. He should be able to tell me.

From my brief time working some summers in his shop, could be the windings or the capacitor. Air conditioners usually hum when the capacitor goes out.

[Rod Sheridan]

Tim, it could be the start capacitor.

Can you turn the bandsaw by hand?

Regards, Rod.

[Tim Robert]

The motor spins freely by hand.

I was resawing a bit of oak when it slowed to a stop. I shut it off, backed the blade out, and when I restarted I got the humming. I gave the belt a quick jog and the motor spun the blade, but as soon as I touched the wood, it stopped. There was never any smoke.

[Joe Shinall]

If there was no smoke or burning smell then I would say it's probably not the windings. But a motor that small, not sure if you'd be able to smell it. The smallest motor I ever saw come through the shop was about the size of a couch. And you could definitely smell those when the windings burnt up.

[Joe Shinall]

Just what Rob said, check the capacitor first. He said you will probably want to just replace it instead of checking it because the ways to check it can get kinda scary. If that's not it, then there are about 4 other things it could be. Some motors have a centrifugal switch built in. Could be the bearings. Or the winding. Replace the motor if that's the problem. A lot easier than having to find a shop to rewind or fix it. I just had a long talk with him and we decided we're gonna replace my 3/4 hp motor on my ridgid with a 3hp. Can be done rather easy if you can find the right housing motor.

[Ray Bell]

If it is the start up capacitor, it seems the main reason for failure is the centrifugal switch (but not always). So before replacing the capacitor, make sure you check the switch, and points.

[Gary Click]

I likely missed the answer but the question was asked if the bandsaw could be turned easily by hand.

Again can the bandsaw itself be easily turned by hand? Not the motor by the saw itself by grasping the wheel or input pulley and twisting it?

This could be a bearing or something else dragging the motor to a stop and then stalling the motor when you try to restart. Since the motor slowed to a stall it is very unlikely that it is the start winding or capacitor as these are involved when the motor first starts and are then removed from the circuit by the centrifugal switch.

My bet is on a mechanical bind.

gary

[Mike Cruz]

3 HP may be a bit of overkill. I put a 1 1/2 HP on my Ridgid and it works great. For the price of a 3 HP motor, you are kinda putting lipstick on a pig...

[Tim Robert]

Saw turns freely, motor came to a stop cause I fed the board too fast. I'll get a new capacitor and see if that works and if not, I'll just replace the motor.

[Joe Shinall]

3 HP may be a bit of overkill. I put a 1 1/2 HP on my Ridgid and it works great. For the price of a 3 HP motor, you are kinda putting lipstick on a pig...

He could rewind the motor I have and get 2 HP out of it. He has a 3HP that will work was the only reason we were looking at the 3. Has the same bolt pattern and everything. Just sittin on a shelf in his shop. I thought about just rewinding mine because, like you, I think 3HP is overkill for a Ridgid.

[Chip Lindley]

The start capacitor of fractional HP motors only aids in starting. Once the motor is up to speed, the start capacitor circuit is switched off by the motor's internal centrifugal switch. (the click you hear when the motor is turned off and winding down) If replacing the cap. does not bring the motor instantly to life, take it apart and check that the centrifugal switch slides freely on the stator shaft. You can also see if the contacts are burned or melted together.

[Mike Harrison]

I've had my HF bandsaw for maybe fifteen years, and not long after buying it, I put a 3 horse motor and riser block on it. I easily slice ten to eleven inch white Oak for 1/4" solid panels. Been a great saw.

[Curt Harms]

It would hum but wouldn't start and would trip the circuit breaker after a few seconds. I could spin the wheels by hand then hit the switch and it would come up to speed. Power was fine once it was running. I called Rikon, they sent me a new motor. I offered to replace the start cap but they said "maybe, but what else might be wrong?". It seems like Asian woodworking machine motors are less reliable than North American branded motors.

[david brum]

Hi Tim

I had one of those saws a few years back. I eventually replaced the motor with a US built 1.5hp. It made the saw into a completely different tool. I also had a lot of trouble with the original motor. Mine was rated at 1 hp, but I would guess that it was actually putting out 1/2 hp. It constantly overheated and stalled when resawing. BTW, I vaguely recall a thermal reset button on the original motor. Did you try that? ( I could be wrong there.)

I don't think you can fit bigger than 1.5hp on one of those saws without surgery to the saw's stand. The area inside the stand is pretty tight. A bigger motor sure makes a big difference though.

[Tim Robert]

It was the start capacitor, thanks for the help.

[Brian Penning]

I have this problem with my Delta BS.
How do I check the start capacitor when you have no electrical know-how?
Can you tell by looking at it and what does it look like?
TIA for any and all replies.

[Rod Sheridan]

Brian, look for discolouration, leaking, burned areas etc.

The start capacitor looks like a cyclinder maybe 1 1/2" X 3"??? often in a metal hump on the motor. It may also be in an electrical junction box depending upon the design.

Regards, Rod.

[David Hostetler]

Since you are in it, do you mind letting me know, if you can tell that is, what is the rpm rating of the HF bandsaw motor?

[Will Winder]

I have an old 1/2HP motor on my bandsaw that also just hums when I start it. It has dual axles so I "kick start" it by rolling the axle with my foot, after one or two kicks it starts right up.

[Van Huskey]

Since you are in it, do you mind letting me know, if you can tell that is, what is the rpm rating of the HF bandsaw motor?

I am not SURE about the HF but all the Delta cast clones I have ever seen have 1725 rpm motors. If the motor is not marked you could work the math from the roughly 2,700 FPM top band speed (or any of the speeds) through the ratio of the pulleys to get the motor rpm. Some quick "in my head" math (hopefully corrrect) says that if the high speed pulley ratio is roughly 5/1 it is a 1725 rpm motor.

[Jerome Hanby]

My dad had a grinder and wite wheel rigged up on a motor like that, think toi may have been out of a washing machine. he rigged a wooden lever to "boot" it after you switched on the power.


I have an old 1/2HP motor on my bandsaw that also just hums when I start it. It has dual axles so I "kick start" it by rolling the axle with my foot, after one or two kicks it starts right up.