Table saw miters

[Lynn Reid]

Hi...I just cant seem to gets miters looking good irrespective of how I cut them. Flat on the table, upright on the table, using jigs...etc. My saw is perfectly aligned...but I suspect something is going on when the saw is under load. I have a Delta Contractors saw. I clean the blades...I use Forrest WW2 10". I like padauk but it is the worst to chip out, etc. I also use an Incra 1000SE when I use a jig. There is ALWAYS something wrong. Chip out, the miters aren't tight...etc.

I was wondering if any of you would enlighten me as to how you cut your miters? The only thing I can figure is that the bearings may be bad although they pass the test...or they come back within .001-.002 after being pushed to one side. Could something be happening under load? I also have trouble determining when my blade needs sharpening. My WW2 is less than a year old and isn't used hard every day...but I have cut a lot of MDF with it. I have measured the run out at the arbor...but cant measure the face of the arbor because the threads run all the way in.

I don't know if it's me or the saw...but now that I'm retired I want to get serious with making boxes. I'm about ready to pull my hair out...whats left! I would seriously appreciate any advice any of you could afford me. I want to do this right! I am including a picture of one of my boxes...it looks better than in person! Thanks...Lynn

[Joe Jensen]

Is it possible you have slop in your miter gauge slots? This is pretty common. Also, if the wood slides at all against the face of the miter fence you will get bad miters.

[Rod Sheridan]

Lynn, are you having trouble with the mitres cut using a mitre gauge and the blade at 90 degrees to the table or are you having trouble with bevel cuts where the blade is tilted to 45 degrees?

My first step would be to use a mitre sled with a hold down clamp or stop block to keep the wood from sliding when being cut.

My next step would be to check that the blade is parallel to the mitre slot when tilted to 45 degrees.

On many saws this is not the case and the trunnions will have to be shimmed, or the table shimmed depending upon saw design.

Regards, Rod.