Jet 22-44 drum sander

[Nathan Palenski]

I've wanted a drum sander for a while now but couldnt find one on craigslist I liked and couldn't stomach the price of a new one. I just picked up one of the 22-44s that tools-plus has on special this week. Apparently its a manufacturer promotion and is being shipped directly from Jet which takes some extra time. I've heard a handfull of people complain about the paper that Jet sells so I didnt buy any extra with it. Does anyone have any experience with this drum sander? What brand paper do you find works best? Is it a pain to cut the generic rolls to fit on the drum?

[Jeff Monson]

I own a 22-44 pro and couldnt be happier with it. I buy the jet "ready to wrap" paper, I dont think it is overpriced. I think you'd have to use this sander a TON to justify the ready to cut rolls. I use mainly 150 grit on mine and recently ran 50 raised panel doors + some glueups with it, have yet to change the paper. I clean it with a gum stick and its still cutting nice and leaving a very nice surface.

Take time to get the head set paralel to the table, its a PITA but once set its good to go. Also take time to learn how to wrap the paper tight, you must start on the left side of the drum and wrap to the right, the right side has the auto tensioner on it. If you wrap it correctly the tensioner will be able to take up slack when needed.

Also there is a learning curve on feed rate and amount taken off, on my machine its 1/4 turn/ pass and no more than 3 on the feed rate. If I stick to these guidelines it works flawlessly. Start pushing either factor and you ask for dips and burns, you just have to get to know its limits.

Also never try to move a workpiece once its started feeding, if its not feeding straight leave it alone. Try to move it and it will disturb the paper on the drum and you will burn the paper and the workpiece.

Enjoy the sander, I love mine.

[Mike Zilis]

I picked up a new 22-44 Plus a couple months ago and bought a few different grits of the Jet paper to try out. No complaints about the Jet paper at all. This isn't a tool that I use every day but when I do, I can't imagine a better way to get the job done.

-Mike

[Nathan Palenski]

I feel much better about it now. I was worried the Jet paper wouldn't last very long but I guess thats unfounded.

How long does it take to change paper on one of these?

[Don Dorn]

I bought some generic rolls for my 16-32 and it doesn't work well and broke often. I agree - just buy the ready to wrap roles from Amazon which is still fairly reasonably priced.

Using the sander as described above with this paper lasts an incredibly long time. I noticed that using Jet ready to wrap paper extended the life at least three to four times what I had before. As you were advised, wrap it tight so that tension is picked up on the right side as you use it, and you'll be very happy. Keep your dust collector running well.

[David Peterson MN]

I bought rolls of paper from klingspor to cut my own wraps from. They last a long time and are much much cheaper than ready to wrap. They only take 2 minutes to cut a fresh wrap.

[james bell]

When I got my 22-44, I purchase a series of the jet ready to wrap grits - but typically use 120 most of the time. Like you, I was concerned over the time it took to change - minimal, so not a problem.

I also took some scrap wood (1/4" x 1 x 2) drilled a hole in it and wrote the grit of the paper on it - I hang it on the sander with chain.

Jeff, how do you use a gum cleaner on it - I tried with the stick but wasn't successful?

[Van Huskey]

I like Klingspor, they have the ready to wrap and also sell marked ready to cut rolls as well.

[Jeff Monson]

Jeff, how do you use a gum cleaner on it - I tried with the stick but wasn't successful?

I use a "gum stick" or "abrasive cleaner stick" whatever you want to call it, just run the machine and flip open the lid, run the stick back and forth (you will see the dust disappering) and thats it.

[Shawn Morley]

Jeff has this spot on. I've had two at one point in time and ran them for about 4 years. I've spent a bit of time with the designer on the machine, overall I think there great machines.

I always used Jet's paper and never had a problem with it. It may take some time getting used to it, but once you have it all figured out I think you'll be happy with it.

IMO the biggest thing to watch for is the tensioning on the paper feed belt. I would recommend putting marks on the table as to where you want it set to and watch and adjust accordingly.

There are two ceramic guide blocks that are under the table, I would remove them, per the engineer they serve no purpose and can easily catch the feed belt and tear it. Should it begin to tear and you catch it, quickly shut the machine down, take your lumber out, get a sharp knife and shove it through the paper between the outer feed roller and the table, turn on the feed belt and cut off the end that began to rip. If you do this you will at least be able to salvage part of the belt until you get a new one. I wouldn't use that one for too long as you could end up changing your tensioning setup so much that it will be hard to align your new belt when you put it on.

Hope that helps some, enjoy the new machine.

[Gary Muto]

I use the Jet paper and cut it myself. It's not hard to cut or change the sandpaper. be sure to maintain the conveyer; adjustment and lube the bushings regularly.

[Dan Galcik]

I feel much better about it now. I was worried the Jet paper wouldn't last very long but I guess thats unfounded.

How long does it take to change paper on one of these?

Once you get the hang of it, and not counting measuring and cutting the paper to size, it takes less than 60 seconds to put on new paper. The TUFTool is hopeless. Use your fingers, instead. Remember to leave slight gaps (thickness of a playing card) between the windings, and 1/8" gap at the end, just before the take up fastener. It will all tighten up once you run the machine.

I got my paper from Industrial Abrasives (http://industrialabrasives.com). Good product, competitive pricing and quick delivery (no affiliation). Get the cotton/poly backing. The paper backing, I'm told, won't hold up for long at all.

[Nathan Palenski]

IMO the biggest thing to watch for is the tensioning on the paper feed belt. I would recommend putting marks on the table as to where you want it set to and watch and adjust accordingly.

There are two ceramic guide blocks that are under the table, I would remove them, per the engineer they serve no purpose and can easily catch the feed belt and tear it. Should it begin to tear and you catch it, quickly shut the machine down, take your lumber out, get a sharp knife and shove it through the paper between the outer feed roller and the table, turn on the feed belt and cut off the end that began to rip. If you do this you will at least be able to salvage part of the belt until you get a new one. I wouldn't use that one for too long as you could end up changing your tensioning setup so much that it will be hard to align your new belt when you put it on.


Someone told me elsewhere there was a rubber feed belt that I could replace the paper one with that would last much longer. Is this worth doing?


I use the Jet paper and cut it myself. It's not hard to cut or change the sandpaper. be sure to maintain the conveyer; adjustment and lube the bushings regularly.

Is all that covered in the manual? What kind of lube should I stock?


Once you get the hang of it, and not counting measuring and cutting the paper to size, it takes less than 60 seconds to put on new paper. The TUFTool is hopeless. Use your fingers, instead. Remember to leave slight gaps (thickness of a playing card) between the windings, and 1/8" gap at the end, just before the take up fastener. It will all tighten up once you run the machine.

I got my paper from Industrial Abrasives (http://industrialabrasives.com). Good product, competitive pricing and quick delivery (no affiliation). Get the cotton/poly backing. The paper backing, I'm told, won't hold up for long at all.

Great info. I have orderd from IA before. They're pretty great at what they do. I needed some odd quantities of tubes for a project and they sent exactly what I needed instead of making me buy packages that included things I'd never use.

[Gary Muto]

Is all that covered in the manual? What kind of lube should I stock?


I didn't read it in the manual. The bushings started squealing so I shot some graphite lube on them. I figure after about every 5-10 hours of use should be sufficient.

[Don Selke]

Ditto on Dan's comments, I too buy my abrasives from Industrial Abrasives. Much cheaper in bulk rools. Cut my rools with a sheet metal cutter.

[Nathan Palenski]

Great googly moogly. This thing is big and heavy. I dont know what grit came on it but it leaves a nice surface on brazilian cherry.

[Will Overton]

Someone told me elsewhere there was a rubber feed belt that I could replace the paper one with that would last much longer. Is this worth doing?


I'm pretty sure those belts have been discontinued. The one for my 16-32 was selling for $500, so I passed on it. Then I got one on closeout from Klingspor, for $100.

They were supposed to last longer and track better, but so far the original belt is doing ok.

There may be after market belts available.

[Shawn Morley]

I'm pretty sure those belts have been discontinued. The one for my 16-32 was selling for $500, so I passed on it. Then I got one on closeout from Klingspor, for $100.

They were supposed to last longer and track better, but so far the original belt is doing ok.

There may be after market belts available.

Could very well be the case, I do know they get quite a bit for them. IMO I wouldn't bother for the upgrade even if they are still available, it isn't worth the price.