Bandsaw question

[Louie Ballis]

Just upgraded my grizzly 0555 bandsaw (with 6 inch riser) with carter guides. Makes a big difference.

Question, now that my bandsaw is coplaner, probably since it was set up, how often do I need to check it for being coplaner? Everytime I change blades?, everytime I change tension?, everytime I change blade size?, every time I retension the same blade?, everytime I look at it sideways? (you get the idea).

Am I correct in assuming that I need to check coplaner at tension that the bandsaw will be cutting at?

thanks

Louie

[Paul Atkins]

I would not worry about it unless there is a problem cutting, blades flying off, screeching sounds, smoke, etc. What is going to change it?

[Louie Ballis]

Well, when I use thin blades 3/16 the blade has a tendency to work its way to the front of the tires especially the lower tire. I use the thinner blades in order to cut the radii for bandsaw boxes. Along with the carter guides I got a stabilzer which will allow me to use a 1/4 inch blade. I am hoping that the larger blade will solve the problem.

I have had blades come off, and while it hasnt caused an injury yet, it certainly is exciting.

I have attributed this to the tires not being coplaner with the smaller blades and the alingment of the wheels does change with fluctuations of pressure or tension on the blade.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

When I change the blade size, I check the set up. Back all the guides off and then set the saw to track in the center of the upper wheel. It should also be in the center of the lower wheel. Then set your guides. It makes sense to me that changing the blade size warrants re-setting your machine. You at a minimum have to move the guides forward or back to be near the gullets. May as well tune the whole thing.

Just my $0.02.

[Keith Westfall]

Isn't setting the track on the blade different than co-planer? Once the wheels are aligned, isn't just necessary to adjust the track for a bit of difference in tension?

I always thought that because of the lessor (or more, depending and blade size change) that it would only be necessary to adjust the top wheel to run the blade in the center.

I'm ready to be taught now... :confused:

[michael case]

I think there is some confusion in terms. Coplanar refers to the actual relationship of the wheels to each other i.e. that they are on the exact same plane. This is a one-time adjustment that usually involves shimming, depending on your saw design. On the older American-style cast iron saws with convex tires it is not as critical as with a flat rim tires. Anyway, it really sounds as if your talking about tracking the blade. Yes, you do this every time by adjusting the knob on the upper wheel. Kyle is right (not for the first time) back everything off - track the blade - then bring the bearings up to the blade.

[Mike Harrison]

Installed my riser and aligned wheels in 95 or 96, haven't noticed any change in operation yet.

[Alan Schwabacher]

The usual approach is to adjust the saw to make the wheels coplanar with your largest blade installed and properly tensioned. Then use the tracking to make any other size blade run properly. The reason for this is that it's the larger blades that behave better with coplanar wheels, and the force they exert on the bandsaw frame will distort it slightly.