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Andy Maldoror
05-10-2010, 12:54 PM
i bought it used so it's already wired to the big 30A nema plug.
i'd like to order all the electrical parts today or tomorrow so i can start wiring this weekend. i've wired a few motors, but i'm a novice.
is this all i need?
the relay suggested on the clearvue site.
a box for it.
a 110 receptacle
remote switch
wire what guage? 4 wire?

my newb questions.
i've wired a few 220 machines using the internet as my guide, but never any transformers or relays. i've got 110 power so do i need to add a 2 pole 30a breaker or does the relay take care of that?
would i take the plug off the motor and hardwire it to the relay box...do most folks add a switch or just use the breaker when they have the remote?
where should i order these parts from? and what box size and remote switch do i need to look for?

i ain't calling no electricians.
thanks for the help.

Paul Wunder
05-10-2010, 2:52 PM
Andy,

I have a Clear Vue and I can get you started, but I will add a caution:
You are dealing with high voltage, a used machine of uncertain wiring, and a very expensive motor $300 or so). These are all good reasons to seek the help of a qualified electrician.

Go to following link as a start;
http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Bullentin/showthread.php?t=954

This is a thread from the Clear Vue site discussing the wiring of the relay. Good photos and discussion. Search the posts and ask them your questions.

You will need a two pole 30 amp breaker

10/2 with ground cable (assuming you run a separate source of 110V for the relay, or 10/3 with ground if you want to tap the 110 relay off the 220 line

I don't specifically know why the other fellow had a 220V plug on his unit, I hardwired mine into the relay and use the remote and my panel breaker to control the circuit.

Since the 220v relay uses a 110V circuit to activate it (turn the cyclone on/off) you can use a remote controlled light switch or a Long Ranger type device to activate the relay. Ed Morgano used to sell a remote by Carlon for $30. I have that and I am satisfied.

Andy, the complete install instructions and wiring diagrams (including the motor are on the Clear Vue web site.

I am sure that others will chime in also.

Paul Wunder
05-10-2010, 3:09 PM
http://www.1800doorbell.com/db800-lighting-controls-remotes.htm

Andy,

The link above shows the type of remote that Clear Vue used to sell. (Look at the $29.95 or $39.95 model. You can get either one for less if you Google around.

Andy Maldoror
05-10-2010, 4:20 PM
10/2 with ground cable (assuming you run a separate source of 110V for the relay, or 10/3 with ground if you want to tap the 110 relay off the 220 line


there is no 110 receptacle near the cyclone. would this be a good reason to go with the 10/3 with ground? would this require something like jumping one of the wires to the 110 side? would this set up be a risky with the 'stray signals' i've read about?

and the Fasco H230B relay is all i need right? i don't need the other relay that the guy in the link posted do I? is that just for the bin indicator?

i really just want to get parts ordered today so i can get them by the weekend when i'll have more time to intensively research what i need to do with them.

appreciate the help,
andy

Paul Wunder
05-10-2010, 4:42 PM
Andy,

If there is no 110V available near the cyclone then use 10/3 with ground to the junction box and use one of the hots plus a neutral to create a 110V circuit to feed the relay. You are correct in that you only need the one Fasco relay.

FYI, I originally wired my circuit with 10/3 and then split off a 110, but the junction box got very crowded with hard to bend (for me) wires. If you go that route, you may want to consider an 8 X 8 box. Make sure it is "deep". The relay is tall.

Also, I sent, in a separate message, a link to several remotes, but the link is confusing. It displays a number of remotes. Choose either the last or next to the last one.

Good luck. P.S. I would suggest checking the motor wiring to make sure that the shaft is going in the right direction.

Leigh Betsch
05-10-2010, 8:07 PM
I'd for sure go with the 10-3 plus ground. I had 10-2 plus ground on hand so I used it, then I added in a 110 transformer to get the 110 for the control relay. Works fine but is is the long way around, quicker and cheaper to go with 10-3.

Andy Maldoror
05-10-2010, 8:24 PM
is there a place i can get the Fasco relay, the box, wire and the remote switch online?
i'm thinking that the answer is order the fasco from one place, order the switch from another and get the wire and box at the borg.
might i find it all locally? in savannah there are the borgs, ace and grainger...i'm not familiar with the electric supply houses.

i read a couple threads this morning about remote switches burning up after a couple years...do i need to research more or just grab one from the site listed above?

John Coloccia
05-10-2010, 8:34 PM
Re: remote wiring
I wired with 10/3 and got the 110 for the remote there. In addition, I added a fused switch and standard male/female connectors. When the remote dies, like mine did a couple of weeks ago, I take it out of the circuit and can use the switch to turn the cyclone on and off. The ability to run sans remote has come in handy numerous times.

Paul Wunder
05-10-2010, 9:39 PM
Gordon Electric Supply on the web 10/3 with ground Romex (Southwire) at $.82/foot and they will sell by the foot. I bought from them when Home Desperate wanted $1.50/foot.

http://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/index~ID~,Wire..Cable...Cord,Building.Wire,Romex.U F~path~find~ds~dept~a~1

Andy Maldoror
05-11-2010, 12:12 AM
i got the relay ordered from csh.

i'm looking at the carlon switch (HW2190) from a few places where i might also be able to get wire and the box from.

this is the first time i've used 10 wire. i usually just use the aluminum flex conduit. i'm in a concrete building and have to connect the conduit to the wall.
anything specific you guys might recommend for cheap conduit?

Dean Ousterhout
05-18-2010, 12:47 PM
When doing the 10-3 method, where does the third wire go at the breaker box?

Rod Sheridan
05-18-2010, 1:30 PM
When doing the 10-3 method, where does the third wire go at the breaker box?

Hi Dean, the neutral wire (white) goes to the neutral bus bar in the panel.

Regards, Rod.

John Coloccia
05-18-2010, 1:30 PM
When doing the 10-3 method, where does the third wire go at the breaker box?

10/3 will actually be 4 wires: 2 hots, one neutral and one ground. Hots go to the breaker, neutral goes to the neutral buss and ground goes to the ground buss. It's pretty important that you get the neutral and ground correct when going to a sub panel, so pay close attention to that.

John Coloccia
05-18-2010, 1:32 PM
Shoot. Owe you a beer, Rod.

Rod Sheridan
05-18-2010, 2:21 PM
Shoot. Owe you a beer, Rod.

John, if I'm ever your way in Connecticut I'll take you up on that, or maybe a coffee instead......Rod.

Dean Ousterhout
05-18-2010, 7:48 PM
Ok.. so at the relay, each of the hots from the panel got to L1 and L2, which wires go to the 120 spots that are on the side of the relay?

Bob Abbott
05-19-2010, 12:50 PM
One comment on 10/3 +G (4 wire) vs 10/2+G (3 wire) plus a separate 14/2+G 110v trom a 15 A breaker to the switch for the relay: I initially tried the 4 wire approach but I couldn't make the 10 gauge wires fit on the switch connectors, so it was easier to run a separate 110v 15A line to the switch ( and then powers the side connectors on the relay) and use the 10/2+G through the relay to the motor.

Paul Wunder
05-19-2010, 12:59 PM
Same experience as Bob Abbott. Same solution: 10/2 + ground for the 220 and a separate 110 for the relay. More wire...less hassle...more reliable install (IMHO)

Paul

Brian Backner
05-19-2010, 1:35 PM
Just one comment when using 10/2 Romex. I looked at the photo of the wiring inside that Carlon box on the ClearVue forum and cringed. Standard 10/2 Romex, as was used in that photo, has a black and white wire and a bare ground. \

Unfortunately, both of the leads wired into that relay are HOT - the wires should be black and red (or any other color besides white or green, or bare copper).

It is still OK to use black and white wires - just wrap some red electrician's tape on the last inch or so of the white wire before it enters and exits the relay - the breaker back at the panel - and on the motor itself. That way, anyone down the road that opens something up will know it is a hot wire.

Brian