Are Radial Arm Saws Simply Out Of Fashion?

[John McClanahan]

Well, I did it. I finally put my RAS up for sale on craigslist. For many years, it was my only "real" wood working tool, a 10" Craftsman that I bought new in 1980. I hate to part with it, but it never gets used anymore, and I sure could use the room.:(

Then I watch the latest episode of The New Yankee Work Shop online, and there is Norm, once again using a Craftsman RAS. This time with a dado blade making tenons.

Now, my saw is one of the dangerous saws that are on the recall list. Someone was thoughtful enough to list a warning on craigslist warning buyers of these saws, and scolding sellers for trying to sell something that belongs in the trash. Interesting though, is the blade guard looks almost exactly like a DeWalt RAS we have at work. No one ever seems to have a problem with the DeWalts, in fact they are the RAS of choice.:cool:

So, it got me wondering, have radial arm saws just gone out of fashion?

John

[jack duren]

Use mine all the time. But I have a Delta 12". My Dewalt slider is parked under the bench where it stays almost all the time...

[Joe Jensen]

I have a 14" Dewalt and it's fantastic. It's highly accurate. I set it to a perfect 90 18 years ago and it's still a perfect 90. The old RAS my grandad had was nothing like this.

I think relatively inexpensive sliding compound miter saws that are pretty accurate have made similarly priced RAS saws obsolete as they are not nearly as accurate. My Dewalt is more accurate than even the Festool SCMS and it cuts wider too. But it's like 600lbs and expensive.

[Rick Potter]

I have two, a DeWalt 12" 7790 that I use ALL the time for crosscuts up to
16". It hasn't needed realigning for at least 6 years. The other is a 1973 Craftsman I recently bought just for doing dado's in shelving. Works fine and is quicker than any other method I have tried. I call it my $200 dedicated dado machine.

Rick Potter

[Jason Hallowell]

About a year ago I got my first RAS for free from a fellow creeker. It's a c-man that looks like it's from the 80's, and was in pretty poor shape when I got it. I planned on just using it for crosscutting long pieces when my miter saw is away at a job site, but after tuning it up I found all sorts of uses for it.

I think the RAS is misunderstood, and if more people knew how to properly set them up and use them, they'd still be found in almost any shop. Properly tuned I feel a good RAS is more accurate and precise than a SCMS, and I think it's a great compliment to the tablesaw. I'm not fond of using them for ripping, but they're great for short dados, cutting tenons, miters (especially large ones), and gang cutting parts to length.

This morning I picked up an old Dewalt RAS and a few other tools at a local swap meet all for $80. I'm really looking forward to getting it cleaned up and using a "real" RAS instead of the freebie I've been using. I need to check the serial # on the c-man, as I may end up getting paid $20 to upgrade to the Dewalt! If so Bill has some more cigars coming his way for giving it to me.

If anyone's interested in the set-up and use of RAS's, do yourself a favor and pick the sawdust mans book, which I think is titled "How to Master the Radial Saw". Just the plans for the table are worth the price of the book.

[Peter Quinn]

So, it got me wondering, have radial arm saws just gone out of fashion?

John

Not in my shop. My DeWalt 14" is both fashionable and functional. When my father retired last year, he offered me his Craftsman 10", and I declined as I already had the dewalt in service, but I did offer to help him load it in a dumpster! The difference between his craftsman RAS and my dewalt RAS is considerable. Hardly even the same tool category frankly. One is a cast iron behemoth, the other a rickity stamped steel pos. Its like the difference between a solid cabinet saw and one of those plastic and aluminum job site TS's that lead to law suits.

So IMVHO, a good RAS never goes out of fashion, but some things posing as RAS's should be placed in the nearest dumpster.

[Bill Leonard]

My first power saw was a Craftsman RAS in the early 80's. I never really liked it, didn't trust it and frankly thought it was a waste of money. It wound up sitting in the corner. Several years ago I gave it away and started using a 10 inch SCMS. Several months ago I purchased an old Dewalt MB at auction on a whim for $40.00. I took the time to set it up correctly in accordance with Mr. Sawdust. Long story short- both SCMS are now put away and I love the RAS. More stable, more accurate, less space required. A good RAS is a great compliment to a table saw. Wish I had realized this long ago.

[Myk Rian]

I don't like the movements you go through with a CMS. It just seems unnatural. I had one, gave it to my son.
I just rebuilt a DeWalt MBF and that tool is my pride and joy. It just feels so natural to use it. And, it's accurate as all get out. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=138759

If you don't know how to tune one up, it's a useless tool. If you do know how, it can be the most accurate tool in the shop.
You need the book at www.mrsawdust.com (http://www.mrsawdust.com)

[Alan Lightstone]

Sold my Craftsman RAS on CL a month ago. I did use it, when I bought it in the 80's had to decide between a RAS and a tablesaw, and chose the RAS.

I do miss it for quick cross-cutting. Only ripped with it once (too scary). Wasn't too repeatable with its cuts, despite trying my hardest to calibrate it. The digital readout was sweet, though.

I never felt it was dangerous for cross-cutting. If anything, I felt it was safer than a tablesaw.

[Erik Christensen]

any would not part with either. My 12" delta turret ras is great for 90 deg cuts in big stock, production runs and cutting tenons/dados. The SCMS is much easier to change the angle on and perfect for single cuts - much better to start the shop vac every 5 minutes than my huge 5 HP DC.

I think the RAS fell out of popular favor due to the poor performance of the cheaper versions (and yes i must admit my 1st RAS was a crapsman) and the fact that most had cheap blades with a high hook angle making them scary to use.

IMHO - if the overwhelming majority of table saws sold over the last 50 years were cheesy contractor table top models with crappy 10$ BORG blades we'd see common wisdom saying "all table saws suck".

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I use mine all the time for crosscuts & miters only.....I might never give this one up, it runs like a dream and never requires adjusting.

[Clarence Miller]

I know that the RAS is kind of a space hog and that sliding CMS have stolen alot of their thunder but I still like having mine around. I set it up to share a fence with my miter saw (the sliding CMS I have is a Menards special that gets hauled around from project site to site so if it dies I can give it a quick buriel) I still love my RAS for cross cutting 2 x 12s. The danger part is the same as with any tool, use with caution and common sense

[scott allen]

My DeWalt MBC is absolutely the most accurate saw I have ever owned - spent an afternoon getting it dialed in, and now it can go from one position to another with dead-on accuracy. Used it yesterday to cut miters for a picture frame, and they came out perfect.

Radial Arms got their bad reputation thanks to the junk Craftsman began putting out in the mid-60's. The good part about this is that this reputation has made good-quality used radial arms a low-cost option for accurate woodworking.

On a DeWalt, things to look for would be an arm-raising mechanism at the top of the column, not in the middle or end of the arm - the round-arm machines are generally a safe bet. A cast-iron arm is a must as well.

The other key is the table/fence combination. Having an absolutely flat table surface is a must, as is a straight fence. Even the best-tuned machine will suffer if the table is poorly made. The renowned "Mr. Sawdust" table is a popular option, but recently tables made with "Superstrut" (available in the electrical section at Home Depot) have been gaining favor with a lot of users (myself included) for both their accuracy as well as ease of construction.

The blade is the last piece of the puzzle - you want to use something with a low to negative hook angle.

Scott

[Dennis McGarry]

Just a note for you, there is a site where you can check your model number on the recall list and if it is on it they will send you a new blade guard and table for it, free.

[Frank Drew]

Life as a cabinetmaker is entirely possible without a radial arm saw.

But once you've used a sliding table saw, life as a cabinetmaker is not possible, or at least not worth living, without one of those. :D

[Bill White]

You're not gettin' mine. I spent the time setting up, have a good table/fence, dust collector chute, etc. Use it a lot contrary to what some might think.
Yep, it's a Craftsman 1978 jobby-not in the recall list-made be Emerson.
Bill

[Bob Aquino]

I would say that they probably have been since miter saws, compound miter saws and sliding compound miter saws came on the scene. These saws do the same basic job that the RAS does without all the requirements to align it, keep the table level, etc. But from my perspective, its not all bad. The classic older saws are pretty common and for the most part, very cheap. I picked up an MBF last summer for 25 bucks and my brother picked up another for 25 more. (They were both bought in NJ, there are lots of old machines in that state) He also picked up a Delta 900 turret style saw for 50 on ebay. Spend a little money and some quality machine rebuilding time (as much fun as cutting wood IMHO) and you will have a sweet little saw.

A miter saw can do what a RAS can do, make a basic cross cut, but a RAS can do things a miter saw can't. For starters, it can cross cut probably about 13" for even a small saw like an MBF. It can do dado's. You could rip with it (I won't, that's what the table saw is for). It does take up more space and does take more time to align initially. That's the trade-off. So a RAS isn't for everybody. I've got two miter saws, and if I am working on a deck cutting 2x material, I'll use the miter saw every time. But I would rather use the RAS for any other crosscutting duties.

I was surprised to see Norm using a CMAN saw, I had always seen him using a Delta turret style, but that was a very old episode. I'm not too keen on Cman saws of any vintage, I had a real old one (60's vintage) and always thought it was more trouble than it was worth. If folks are looking for good saw to use, I would recommend one of the older round arm Dewalts or early 60's vintage like the 925. These saws are mostly cast iron and well made with good machining and tight tolerances. The older Delta saws starting from the Multiplex design they inherited from Red Star up to the 60's vintage Rockwells are also very nice saws for homeowner use. I've rebuilt an example of each:
DeWalt MBF:
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_nh7rpc89jO0/SxGJiP-VtxI/AAAAAAAAIDA/-Gl6VoG8FNw/s800/P1040399.JPG

Delta 30C
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_nh7rpc89jO0/S93bcCbeBvI/AAAAAAAAI04/K92m-xEpw84/s800/IMG_0842.JPG

[Neal Clayton]

Well, I did it. I finally put my RAS up for sale on craigslist. For many years, it was my only "real" wood working tool, a 10" Craftsman that I bought new in 1980. I hate to part with it, but it never gets used anymore, and I sure could use the room.:(

Then I watch the latest episode of The New Yankee Work Shop online, and there is Norm, once again using a Craftsman RAS. This time with a dado blade making tenons.

Now, my saw is one of the dangerous saws that are on the recall list. Someone was thoughtful enough to list a warning on craigslist warning buyers of these saws, and scolding sellers for trying to sell something that belongs in the trash. Interesting though, is the blade guard looks almost exactly like a DeWalt RAS we have at work. No one ever seems to have a problem with the DeWalts, in fact they are the RAS of choice.:cool:

So, it got me wondering, have radial arm saws just gone out of fashion?

John

the smaller ones are dangerous, imo. i got rid of a newer 10" delta that i didn't like using for that reason.

but the older, heavier ones aren't really. i'm currently using a 1948 unipoint and the motor simply doesn't have enough oomph to draw the blade any further than you pull it, it's as safe as any miter saw, really. guess that would apply to larger new saws as well.

[Mike Reinholtz]

I restored a 1940s Delta Rockwell 3hp 3 phase machine last fall, so far it's been fantastic. The ability to use full kerf blades without bogging down is a huge benefit to me. I still use my SCMS, really depends on what I'm doing. I learned a great deal tearing it down and rebuilding everything. I run it off a VFD, single phase input.

Anyone have a favorite blade or dado setup on their RAS? Mine is a 12" with a 1" arbor, I was only able to find one model of dado that would fit.

How about dust collection? My blade guard has a 2" port built in but it doesn't get much.

The pictures is how it looked when I got it, I can't find any newer ones since I restored it.

[Van Huskey]

Out of fashion, yep. Misunderstood, yes again. The latter feeds the former.

[Will Blick]

Interesting, the Delta web site only shows the 10" version of their RAS??????

http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/CategoryOverview.aspx?catPath=4274.4313.4324

[Chip Lindley]

Out of fashion...aka...OUT OF VOGUE! Many consider RASs obsolete today, but they still do the job they were designed to do!


I think the RAS fell out of popular favor due to the poor performance of the cheaper versions (and yes i must admit my 1st RAS was a crapsman) and the fact that most had cheap blades with a high hook angle making them scary to use.

Heavy, well-built RASs still do the job they always did. My CI Rockwells hold their settings 'til I change them. Some finicky lesser aluminum RASs never did their job without constant adjustment. Using the proper blade, and learning good RAS technique goes a long way toward safety and good results. Most saws are only as dangerous as the operator allows them to be. Any saw can injure if proper procedure is ignored or unlearned.

Using a SCMS is tempting because of its light weight and small footprint. But hold your breath and make deliberate moves for any work which must be finish-cut perfectly. IMO, they are great for deck-building, but can be *iffy* for cutting expensive crown moulding perfectly.

If you have shop room, seriously consider a good cast iron RAS! There are some great bargains on CL and eBay. Out of fashion/OUT OF VOGUE also means very attractive prices.

[Larry Edgerton]

I have an OMGA. It is a nice modern machine, cuts 27", accurate as you please, not as heavy as the old iron, but even more rigid.

As far as being out of fashion, so are my cloths.....;)

[John McClanahan]

Well, its gone. I was a bit surprised. As many as are always available on CL, I got a reply and sale only a few hours after posting. I will miss it only because I knew its history. I figured if I need one again, there are plenty out there to choose from.

Oh, and now I have room for my CNC router, when I get it finished!

John

[Will Blick]

john, you are following the technology trend...CNC is the culminatino of so many woodworking specialties... have you ever checked out the Legacy CNC mills page? Wow....

What type of CNC are you getting? I marvel that even Rockler now sell CNC's in the $3k price range, sheeeeesh....

As for the RAS... I think as others have mentioned the sliding compound miter saws are portable and have nearly the same capacities, so their low price lead to the demise more than any other factor....

However, the one area where a RAS still rules supreme is at a lumberyard...where they constantly are cutting down long stock, say 10 ft +... having the depth of cut and length is quite impressive, while not having to move the stock... of course, these are often 14" - 16" RAS which is not the hobbiest class being discussed here..

[Floyd Mah]

I have a Craftsman RAS that I bought many years ago to make furniture. Turned out that it was difficult to use. Couldn't rip lumber, couldn't make consistent dados. Was very frightening to use. Make dents in the garage door from sending pieces of wood flying. Nearly killed myself when it accidentally cut a chisel in half (my fault for not clearing the work area well). Well, this weekend I turned it into an overarm pin router (using a separate router and the saw arm). We'll see if I can get some use in its new incarnation. I read a thread on making guitars (Check this (http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/194271-1959-les-paul-build.html) out if you are interested in wonderful craftsmanship) and thought it might be nice to have equipment for making pattern following tools.

[Don Jarvie]

Delta 900 Turret Arm here and LOVE IT!

The weight of the machine makes for very precise cuts. I could get good cut on my Hitachi CMS the initial startup of the motor could cause the piece to move just a hair.

I just trimmed out a room using the RAS and the pieces were much tighter than when I used the CMS for the other rooms.

If you have room buy a good older Dewalt or Delta

[Rod Sheridan]

Life as a cabinetmaker is entirely possible without a radial arm saw.

But once you've used a sliding table saw, life as a cabinetmaker is not possible, or at least not worth living, without one of those. :D

Without doubt.

I can't think of anything a RAS can do that a sliding saw can't do more accurately and safely.

And as for capacity, my small sliding saw can crosscut to 42", larger saws can crosscut to 120"........Regards, Rod.

[John Schreiber]

It seems like there's two tools out there. One is a radial arm saw, the other is a dangerous toy. Which ones are the good ones?

Any Craftsman = junk ?????
Any Delta = good or just old Delta? How can you tell?
Any others?
Cast iron = good ?????

[Neal Clayton]

i'm sure there are exceptions, but in general...

anything 12" or larger = probably pretty good
anything 10" or smaller that was made after 1960 = not that great
old and 12" or larger = best of both worlds

[John McClanahan]

My router is home built and my design. It is steel framed, stepper driven with linear rails and ball screws. It has a cutting capacity of 36"x43" and uses a porter Cable 3-1/4 HP router for the spindle. I have the machine built, and currently at the wiring stage.

John

[Rick Potter]

As a point of interest. About 10 years ago I got a new10" Delta RAS, like the one they sell now. There was no mention of using a dado set in the manual. It was possible to set one up, but they made it very difficult. Since the dado is one of my major reasons for getting it, I sold it after a year or so and kept my early 80's DeWalt 7790.

Maybe they have changed it, I don't know.

Rick Potter

[John Mark Lane]

I've never used a compound sliding miter saw (or whatever they are called). I have a couple of Delta miter saws, and I've owned and used a couple of older radial arm saws. In my old shop, the RAS was almost as important as the table saw. It got used constantly.

In looking at these new compound sliding saws (sorry, I know they're not very new, but I'm old), it looks to me like you can't adjust the height of the blade over the cutting table. Is that right? So you can never do dados or cuts for a lap joint or anything like that, right? That would seriously limit the usefulness of the saw, imo.

Am I missing something?

[Peter Quinn]

Without doubt.

I can't think of anything a RAS can do that a sliding saw can't do more accurately and safely.

Regards, Rod.

I can. Big pile of 12' long rough 8/4 WO needs to be turned into smaller parts for flattening and further milling. Say 20 boards in the 8"-14" wide range, and you need rough lengths anywhere from 15"-72". The RAS with a long table will pretty much smoke the panel saw hands down in both speed and safety. Accuracy? Maybe not so much, maybe just as good with the right fence set up. I suppose the panel saw works if you pull out the cam clamp and shims and such, but why subject the panel saw to that? For lumber in the rough I find the panel saw is not my first choice at all. Pinching, smoking, burning, having to flip the whole massive board end for end to cut shorts from the other end (such as to get around nots or defects), just not fun. With the RAS and a long table (assuming you have the space to dedicate to this) there is a lot less lifting of large work pieces. you slide left, you slide right, you can cross cut from either side of the blade.

All that said, if I had to have one or the other, I'd take the panel saw in a heart beat, but I'd probably still cross cut rough material with a big skill saw or something else rather than use the panel saw.

[Neal Clayton]

As a point of interest. About 10 years ago I got a new10" Delta RAS, like the one they sell now. There was no mention of using a dado set in the manual. It was possible to set one up, but they made it very difficult. Since the dado is one of my major reasons for getting it, I sold it after a year or so and kept my early 80's DeWalt 7790.

Maybe they have changed it, I don't know.

Rick Potter

they have not. your only option is to operate it without the blade guard, really.

that's why i ended up giving the one i had away.

[johnny means]

I've never used a compound sliding miter saw (or whatever they are called). I have a couple of Delta miter saws, and I've owned and used a couple of older radial arm saws. In my old shop, the RAS was almost as important as the table saw. It got used constantly.

In looking at these new compound sliding saws (sorry, I know they're not very new, but I'm old), it looks to me like you can't adjust the height of the blade over the cutting table. Is that right? So you can never do dados or cuts for a lap joint or anything like that, right? That would seriously limit the usefulness of the saw, imo.

Am I missing something?

All the SCMSes I've worked with had an adjustable stop that stopped the plunging motion at a user set height.

[Rod Sheridan]

Yes, that's one that I hadn't considered.

I often use material of that size, just not that length since I break that down with a circular saw.

Since my shop is only 17' long I'd have a hard time using the RAS as described.:D

Regards, Rod.

[Larry Edgerton]

Yes, that's one that I hadn't considered.

I often use material of that size, just not that length since I break that down with a circular saw.

Since my shop is only 17' long I'd have a hard time using the RAS as described.:D

Regards, Rod.

With its 27" cut I use my OMGA to cut cabinet parts as well as post and beam fabrication. For many a SCMS may be the ticket, but I want both. My sliders are not as accurate as my radial arm, especially on larger material.

[John Mark Lane]

Really, that's interesting... So why can't you cut dados with one? I'd sure rather get a miter saw for my small shop as a space saver if it can do the same things the RAS can do...

[Neal Clayton]

All the SCMSes I've worked with had an adjustable stop that stopped the plunging motion at a user set height.

i've only used my bosch, but it's not really the same. it's not rigid enough to leave a smooth bottom on a cut.

i can dado with my RAS using multiple passes with a single blade. the bosch can't do that with the depth stop.

[Jason Hallowell]

Really, that's interesting... So why can't you cut dados with one? I'd sure rather get a miter saw for my small shop as a space saver if it can do the same things the RAS can do...

All of the ones I've used had short arbors and narrow blade guards, pretty much limiting you to a single blade. Also, setting the depth precisely is pretty trial and error, or at least it is on mine.

[Homer Faucett]

IMHO, a DeWalt GWI is pretty much the cat's meow if you want to run a lot of tenons with a dado blade. Since it's a 10" blade and a true 1.5 horse motor, you can do just about anything you want on that beast. Plus, it's not so heavy that you can't move it around (still plenty heavy, though).

The DeWalt MB line is fine for a single blade saw, but they are a little underpowered. They work fine as a replacement for a SCMS, but you are limited by the 8" blade, and the arm is not as long as the GWI. If I recall, the motors are rated between 1/2 hp and 3/4 hp on most models.

If you want a dedicated RAS that you will never move, the GA models are impossible to beat. I have a couple of 5hp, 16" GE's that run on 240v. The only thing I don't like is how long the blade spins after you shut off the motor. An electronic break would be nice.

I hated RAS's before I tried a Dewalt. My dad had a Craftsman/Emerson growing up, and it would crawl across the wood right at you, would leave a ragged edge on whatever you were cutting, and was just a generally scary machine. Now, I've got 2 big GE's (one set up for 45's, and one for 90's), and I gave my dad a GWI to replace that piece of junk Emerson. There really is no comparison, and I totally understand why RAS's are no longer in fashion--a new craftsman RAS is quite expensive and is not half the machine as one of the old DeWalts you can pick up if you watch closely. Just make sure you get one with a cast iron arm and good bearings and ways.

[John Mark Lane]

OK, so back to what I previously thought -- a RAS can do things the miter saws can't...and they are things I consider very useful and important.

Anyone got an old DeWalt or other good RAS they want to sell? Does anyone sell restored ones?

[Homer Faucett]

Your best bet is to go to owwm.org and read up on the DeWalts and the Delta Turret heads to see what you need to look for in a used RAS (bearings, smooth ways, motor bearings, etc.), then start looking on Craigslist or checking out auctions in your local market.

I have seen the 8" MB models sell for $25-$50 that only needed a new blade, some oiling, and maybe a paint job. I have seen the GWI's go for $150, and GE's go for under $250 at auction. I don't know as much about the Delta's, as they don't pop up very often around here (or maybe I just don't notice them as well), but it doesn't seem to take too long to have a few DeWalts pop up around here at a decent price.



OK, so back to what I previously thought -- a RAS can do things the miter saws can't...and they are things I consider very useful and important.

Anyone got an old DeWalt or other good RAS they want to sell? Does anyone sell restored ones?

[Wayne Morris]

Bought an old Craftsman RAS off Craigslist for 25 bucks. It's just like the one I had back in the 1980s when I sold my tools. I cleaned it up, got the free kit offered to satisfy the recall and it works just fine in my shop where I make beekeeping equipment. I keep it set up as a crosscut saw.

Wayne

[Jason White]

If I had the space, I'd keep one set up strictly for 90 deg crosscuts and dadoes. Would be a luxury, not a necessity. Jason


Well, I did it. I finally put my RAS up for sale on craigslist. For many years, it was my only "real" wood working tool, a 10" Craftsman that I bought new in 1980. I hate to part with it, but it never gets used anymore, and I sure could use the room.:( Then I watch the latest episode of The New Yankee Work Shop online, and there is Norm, once again using a Craftsman RAS. This time with a dado blade making tenons. Now, my saw is one of the dangerous saws that are on the recall list. Someone was thoughtful enough to list a warning on craigslist warning buyers of these saws, and scolding sellers for trying to sell something that belongs in the trash. Interesting though, is the blade guard looks almost exactly like a DeWalt RAS we have at work. No one ever seems to have a problem with the DeWalts, in fact they are the RAS of choice.:cool: So, it got me wondering, have radial arm saws just gone out of fashion? John

[Myk Rian]

OK, so back to what I previously thought -- a RAS can do things the miter saws can't...and they are things I consider very useful and important.

Anyone got an old DeWalt or other good RAS they want to sell? Does anyone sell restored ones?
Every now and then a restored, or restorable saw will pop up here, a site devoted to DeWalts.
http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/ (http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start?lgnJR=1)

[Joe Jensen]

I have a 1970s 14" Dewalt / Black and Decker, 3HP 1PH. I have it set as a dedicated crosscut station for 90 degree cuts. When I purchased it Biesemeyer sold a crosscut fence system for RAS saws. I have 9ft to the left of the blade with the hairline pointer and 8 ft to the right. I dialed it in with the 5 cut method when I installed it 18 years ago and then I tightened up the column screws to effectively lock it in place. I checked for square a year ago and still a perfect 90 with the 5 cut method. With the Biesemeyer fence I have a hair line pointer on the fence and I can super quickly set and cut precisely. Here are some cluttered shop pics of the RAS and fence setup.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1447.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1423.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1424.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/RASleft.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/RASright.jpg

[Dave MacArthur]

Nice setup, is that a copy of Norm's RAS cabinet?

Somehow I just didn't picture you tooling around on a Razor with that helmet on... ;)

[Mr. Jeff Smith]

Would it offend anyone if I said I didn't know what a RAS was until 6 months ago?

No joke, I was talking with my father in law who was talking about using one on a make shift job site. I had never heard of one before, although I admit after looking it up online I recalled seeing them on some job sites.

[Neal Clayton]

Would it offend anyone if I said I didn't know what a RAS was until 6 months ago?

No joke, I was talking with my father in law who was talking about using one on a make shift job site. I had never heard of one before, although I admit after looking it up online I recalled seeing them on some job sites.

they were advertised as 'portable' at one time.

here's the original sales brochure that came with mine, around 1948-1950...

i suppose it's portable with two people carrying it like that, but it's about 300 pounds so i think the portable claim is highly dubious at best, at least compared to modern 75 pound 10" miter saws ;).

[Shawn Cavaretta]

i have a 10" craftsman electronic radial saw for 1984. i use it all the time. i dont care for miter saws. just today i was using the RAS to rip wood for about 6 hours then switched to making cross cuts. i could not live with out this saw. true some cman saw are junk but this is one of the few that is good. it has a digital read out of the angle of the arm and the bevel of the head. it also has a motorized height adjustment you just punch in the height you want the arm at and it will set it self.

i do not own a table saw never have and never will. i can do just about everything i need with the RAS and what i cant do with that i can do with a skill saw and a jig

i use this saw to make doll houses

[Greg Plowman]

I threw a mahogany table leg across my high school shop class with a RAS years ago. They are probably safe if set up correctly however I haven't used one since.

[Loren Hedahl]

they were advertised as 'portable' at one time.

here's the original sales brochure that came with mine, around 1948-1950...

i suppose it's portable with two people carrying it like that, but it's about 300 pounds so i think the portable claim is highly dubious at best, at least compared to modern 75 pound 10" miter saws ;).

I do have one that is portable. It is a 9 inch C-man with an aluminum arm.

Of course, it is no match for accuracy that a Delta Turret or vintage DeWalt, but for framing or building decks it is a lot more versatile than a compound miter saw. For example; notching posts and putting the top bevels on posts are done quickly and accurately.

One thing I never do is swing the arm. It always stays in the cross-cut position. After moving it to where I want to use it I check the alignment and if an adjustment is needed, I prefer to shim the fence as needed. For cutting miters I have what is the equivalent of a table saw sled with accurate fences for the 45 deg angles.

For ripping, be sure the blade guard is almost touching the wood and use a push stick made for a radial arm saw. It is just a piece of sacrificial scrap long enough that I can push the piece I'm ripping all the way through the blade.

For cross cutting negative or low angle hook blades are nice, but not entirely necessary if you are aware how the saw self-propels itself through the cut. For ripping, I just use a decent rip blade.

I maintain my table in good order. Some don't like my method of using Bondo regularly to fill and remake the cut slot and fill the previous rip divots, but it works for me.

I also have a 12 inch Delta turret that is a tighter, heavier machine and nicer to use. But really, I could get along just fine without it. Cut accuracy is more a factor in how one uses the saw as it is saw tightness in a RAS where you are moving the saw through the wood. This is not so for a table saw, where any looseness in the arbor, for example, makes it impossible to get a good accurate cut.

My main complaint with a RAS is dust collection, especially for ripping. I just give up and seldom use it anywhere but outdoors.

So, while the RAS has gone out of fashion, I am not interested in disposing of mine anytime soon.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I threw a mahogany table leg across my high school shop class with a RAS years ago. They are probably safe if set up correctly however I haven't used one since.Anyone can have an accident with any machinery. Apparently you were not shown the correct procedure. I have never had an accident with an RAS in my 36 years of woodworking