Yankee Push Drill Resources

[Mark Wyatt]

I've recently acquired a North Bros. No. 41 push drill which needs some restoration. I'm looking for some resources on this tool, paticularly any tips on dis-assembly/re-assembly. As it stands, I cannot take this tool apart and don't want to force anything.

Any help would be appreciated.

[George Clark]

Here is a link to some Yankee Push Drills patent drawings. Perhaps studying these can help you understand how to disassemble the
drill.

http://www.georgesbasement.com/yankeedr/patents/patentlist.htm

[Bill Houghton]

I can't help much on the disassembly question, but, once you've disassembled it, Stanley has a surprisingly high number of the parts still available: http://www.stanleytoolparts.com/drills-push-03-043-41y-yankeepro.html

Push drills are incredibly great tools, handy beyond words. I probably use mine more often than any other Stanley tool I own.

[Leigh Betsch]

Stanley has a surprisingly high number of the parts still available:

Thanks for the link. I didn't have a clue that you can buy parts for these. I bought a couple of old timers last summer for a couple of bucks, cleaned them up and forgot that I have them in the drawer. Gotta pull them back out and get them on the front line.

[Joel Goodman]

Push drills are incredibly great tools, handy beyond words. I probably use mine more often than any other Stanley tool I own.

+1 on that -- I have the big Millers Falls which is the same size as the big Yankee and I love it!

[Johnny Kleso]

To get bits for these the Cheapest is to buy a dill with complete set of bits..

I was able to buy a few bits from Stanley a few years back but it was not the straight flut type they where some of the last twist bits..

Stanley stopped making them a few years back :(

I remember seeing full sets of bits selling for more than the drill and bits on ebay a few years back.. I'm not sure whats going on these days :(

If you buy a new drill try to find a No44 they are older but have adjustable spring pressure.. Often seller will say they are no bits but they store in the handle.. You loose center nut and slide handle down to view bits.. I bought one NOS with box and bits for about $25-$30 but seller told me no bits where included but all where :)

Thre is a No.44 on eBay today if you whan to look..

[Adam Woznicki]

You have to use a pin punch to drive out both the pin holding the cap, and the pin holding the chuck.

I think you have to do both, my drill is at work and my memory is a bit fuzzy, but I definitely remember the cap pin being a pain in the kester.

What's wrong that you need to take it apart?

[Jeff Burks]

Garrett Wade (http://www.garrettwade.com/garrettwade-push-drill/p/69P01.01/) sells a reproduction Yankee push drill. They have an 8-bit set available that is supposedly compatible with the original Yankee pattern. Several of the customer reviews claim they bought the bits for antique Yankee drills and were happy with the results.

[Johnny Kleso]

Thanks Jeff for link

[Jeff Burks]

Forgot to mention that you can also get a drill adapter (http://search.antiqnet.com/cgi-bin/texis/scripts/cust_search/+wo9jeTUnw/detail.html?barfont=66000&DB2_ID=1182331&qcat=&keywords=&jump=&contact=&paginate=&barcolor=doccb9&searchtype=L&idnum=GGB1347&scode=DPADAPT&sr=&basket=&barcolor=doccb9&barfont=66000&buygif=&basketgif=&contact=&paginate=&txt=090e66&bgc=FFFFFF&lnk=c60065&srgif=&bgi=) for the No. 41 that will allow you to use modern twist bits. Stanley was still making replacement bits (http://search.antiqnet.com/cgi-bin/texis/anet_search/detail.html?DB2_ID=1273121&qcat=&keywords=Stanley+41&jump=10&basket=) for the No. 41 as late as the 1980's. A lot of the NOS packages are still floating around if you don't mind spending a few bucks and know where to look. I bet there are still old time hardware stores with these things stashed away in the store room.

The Garrett Wade 8-bit set matches the drill diameters that came with the original No. 41
1/16 - 5/64 - 3/32 - 7/64 - 1/8 - 9/64 - 5/32 - 11/64
If one of you buy the set, be sure to let us know if the bits are well manufactured or junk.

If you go to the flea markets and tag sales, keep an eye out for the tubes (http://www.oldtoolsnstuff.com/Yankeedpset.jpg) or envelopes (http://home.cshore.com/reedunderhill/loot/YankeeScrewBits.JPG) the old ones were packed in.
If you get lucky you might even find a chuck (http://home.cshore.com/reedunderhill/loot/YankeeChuckBitInBox1.JPG) bit (http://home.cshore.com/reedunderhill/loot/YankeeChuckBitInBox2.JPG).

[Dan Andrews]

[QUOTE=Johnny Kleso;1418396]To get bits for these the Cheapest is to buy a dill with complete set of bits..
I remember seeing full sets of bits selling for more than the drill and bits on ebay a few years back.. I'm not sure whats going on these days :(


Still tends to be that way. I did manage to buy one lot of 14 bits for $9.20. I recently bought one Stanley 41Y and one North Bros. 41, lot with about 8 or 10 bits in the drills for $10.64 for the lot. Both drills and all the bits are in usable to very good condition. These prices include shipping. It did take some patients and shopping to find these deals.

My best deal was at a garage sale where I bought a North Bros. 41 with nearly a full set of Yankee bits for $2.50. :)

[Craig Gates]

Garrett Wade has bits that "might" fit. I haven't tried...but if you're desperate.
http://www.garrettwade.com/product.asp?pn=69P01.01

[Mark Wyatt]

Thanks all for the resources. This tool came to me as part of a garage sale bargain where the prize was a Wilkinson 8" adjustable handle draw knife in excellent condition (once cleaned!).

The spring mechanism works on the push drill, but not well or quickly. It feels like it might have some "gunk" inside. I'm trying to get inside and find out. I'd prefer not to ruin the tool in my attempts to make it function.

There are 10 bits stored in the handle in good condition.

[Jim Belair]

I know this thread is a bit old but can someone help me understand the difference between a pushdrill and a pushdriver. I have a few pushdrivers in most sizes and have a couple of drill bits for one of them. Lee Valley also sold a few bits for the drivers (or did until not too long ago).

If the action different, or the chuck, or the availability of different bit sizes or?

Thanks
Jim B

[Bill Houghton]

I know this thread is a bit old but can someone help me understand the difference between a pushdrill and a pushdriver. I have a few pushdrivers in most sizes and have a couple of drill bits for one of them. Lee Valley also sold a few bits for the drivers (or did until not too long ago).

If the action different, or the chuck, or the availability of different bit sizes or?

Thanks
Jim B

Answering first about the Yankee (first North Bros. and, after 1946, Stanley [who bought out North Bros. then]): Yankee ratchet screwdrivers of the push type use three different shank sizes, all larger than the sizes of the shank on the Yankee pushdrill. You used to be able to get pushdrill bits for the small drivers (35, 135, etc.), and adapters for the small driver that would take pushdrill bits. Most of the pushdrills turn forward when you push and backward on the return stroke, which helps to clear swarf out of the hole; screwdrivers ratchet on the return stroke, so the hole can clog up.

I have a few pushdrill bits that fit my 135 Yankee driver, and I've found the pushdrill works better. I used to think the pushdrill turned faster than the screwdriver, but I once measured the distance/turns ratio, and the screwdriver actually turns slightly faster; so I think the performance difference has to do with the "backing out" that the pushdrill does.

In my opinion, pushdrills are working awfully hard and not always well on the two or so largest diameter holes - for that size, I'd tend to go find an eggbeater drill. But, for the sizes needed for common hardware, they're truly elegant engineering.

Goodell Pratt and some Millers Falls, Craftsman, Dunlap, and maybe others use a cruciform shank on the pushdrill bits, with four milled or pressed grooves that fit into a four-jaw chuck. Perhaps it's theoretically stronger (probably just a way around a patent), but I've never had a push drill bit snap at the shank down in the drill - those that have snapped do so in the fluted part.

I am embarrassed to admit that I avoid counting how many I have, because, well, that would be even more embarrassing; although I think I could do it without having to take off my shoes to count past ten.

[Mike Holbrook]

I agree that discussing how many one might have is not necessary. We do need spare parts for these old tools though...I have "a few" Miller Falls #s-61, 62. 610...

Lee Valley and Highland Woodworking both carry adapters for these drills that allow me to use regular hex driver (bits,drills, sockets...). I believe these adapters are sized for the Yankee tools but some fit the MF tools or can be modified to. The Lee Valley adapters are especially good IMHO and cheaper too. The Highland offering is basically the same system used on the German devices that are still being made today. They do secure around bits very well. Lee Valley also sells some regular bits for these devices.

Some people prefer the older models that do not have springs that may cause bits to slip off the work on occasion. An older ratcheting screw driver with a hex adapter is a very versatile tool in my experience.