Finishing Help

[Wes Newman]

Okay Creekers I need some Help.
I am currently in the process of making jewlry boxes out of Curly Maple and Walnut, and have no idea how to finish these pieces. I know the look I want. I want to highlight the curly maple, but not dye it a different color. I want a satin finish not glossy or plastic looking. It needs to be semi durable, It may get handled on a daily basis. Should I finish the components before assembly? What grit should I sand to before finishing? I was thinking Waterlox, but open for any suggestions. Any help is greatly appreciated. I don't want to blunder this up on the final leg of the Race. I have attached a pic of the curly maple to show What I'm up against.http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=12697&stc=1

[Donnie Raines]

First thinsg first. I would hand sand to 220 grit...then use a slighty higher grit for any end grain that may be showing(this burnishes the end grain will make it smoother). I would then apply a very liberal coat of Boiled Linseed oil. Use some 220 grit sandpaper and rub with the grain until the sandpaper simply glides across the surface of the wood. Basicly you are pushing the oil into the wood. Alllow that sit for about 1/2 hour....then wipe down all excess....be sure to get all the gunk out of the corners and details. Allow to dry unitl fully cured....maybe a week.....when you can no longer smell the BLO it is cured. At this point you can use one of two products(..what I use any way...of corse there are others out there). I often use Pratt and Lambert #38 varnish....which I thin 75% varnish to 25% mineral spirits. I then use it as a wiping varnish. the other produc that is surprising easy to use and yeilds a great result is General Finishes Salad Bowl finish. It is really the same thing as the wiping poly they have(Arm R Seal) but is slightly thinner(cost less) and build to a nice sheen if desired. It dries quickly(as does Pratt and Lambert) but very smoothly. You will need to work in small areas...wiping on and off as you go.

[Steve Cox]

My best experience for curly maple has been shellac. It doesn't change the color much and really pops the grain. It might be a little shiny for your desires though. I have also seen (but not used) curly maple finished with a waterborne wiping poly that I think is just about what you're describing you want. I'm not sure it would give a nice finish on the walnut.

[Ted Shrader]

Wes -

If I may add one additonal (cautionary) step to Donnie's recommendation. After you have applied the BLO, waited the ½ hour and wiped it off be sure to check it again periodically - every 10 minutes or so - for additional bleedout. It will appear as little shiny spots where it comes back out of the grain. Make sure to wipe those off, too. Those can be a real pain. DAMHIKT :)

You could also use tung oil as the finish. Be sure to get pure tung oil, not a tung or danish oil varnish blend.

As a final step on either finish, waxing willing give it a nice sheen and feel.

Regards,
Ted

[Wes Newman]

Thanks for the Replies fellas. Do I finish after assembly or before?

[Donnie Raines]

I would finish after assembly...but that is me.

[Ted Shrader]

Wes -

Depends. How are they constructed? Mitered corners, finger joints, rabbeted, etc. Deciding factor for me would be whether or not the joints might require any sanding after assembly? (And mine always seem to. :( )

If you can finish prior to assembly, use blue painters tape to mask the areas where glue will be applied. Also, the reverse of that is a useful techinique during assembly to protect areas around the joints from glue squeeze out.

Regards,
Ted

[Steve Wargo]

I always prefinish before assembly. The reson for finishing the piece first is you don't have to worry about the glue squeezing out and sealing the pores of the wood, often creating the dead spot in finish. For curly woods to look natural I like a 2lb cut of blond shelac followed by a nice scuff sanding with 320 then french polish. Also don't forget to seal the end grain or it will darken substantially. If you need a more durable finish, after the piece is sealed with shelac apply water based urethane. This will stop the maple from yellowing too much. Hope this helps, and they are only my opinions.

[Steve Evans]

If you're going to seal before assembly, make sure you mask off any areas that are going to be glued or else you'll get a lousy glue bond.

Steve

[Steve Wargo]

Sorry, Should have mentioned that.

If you're going to seal before assembly, make sure you mask off any areas that are going to be glued or else you'll get a lousy glue bond.

Steve

[Wes Newman]

Donnie, Is this the method you used to finish your spice box.(really nice by the way).;)

Thanks for all the replies, I feel a little more comfortable finishing these projects now.

[Donnie Raines]

Donnie, Is this the method you used to finish your spice box.(really nice by the way).;)

Thanks for all the replies, I feel a little more comfortable finishing these projects now.
Which one??...the one with the drawers(on my little home page that I can no longer gain access to) on the Cherry Shaker Spice cabinet? If the one on my hoem page the answer is yes...BUT..I did apply a very diluted coat of Shaker brown dye....very very lite.

[Wes Newman]

Which one??...the one with the drawers(on my little home page that I can no longer gain access to) on the Cherry Shaker Spice cabinet? If the one on my hoem page the answer is yes...BUT..I did apply a very diluted coat of Shaker brown dye....very very lite.
Ya, thats the one. You can't access your own website, what's up with that?