Setup Straight Edge - Best Bang for the Buck

[Frank Warta]

I need to get a decent straightedge to align my jointer, table saw, and planer. I'm sure there will be other uses as well but those are the immediate needs. I'm figuring longer is better so 4' or better is what I've looked at. I know that Lee Valley has a 50" aluminum version for $80 which isn't totally outrageous but I figured I'd call on the collective wisdom of the masses for guidance.

Here's a link (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=50074&cat=1,240,45313)to the LV one I found.

My other question is can I make do with the 38" version, at half the price it's pretty attractive but as I'd hate to feel like I wasted money on something that's just not quite long enough.

[glenn bradley]

I went with LV 36" steel and it has been fine for tablesaw, planer, longbed jointer, etc. I am OK with aluminum for many things but for something like this, I went with steel. Of course, either way its one drop from bench height onto concrete and its junk (mine lives in a shipping tube in my in-house office. . . next to my shellac). I have had it a couple years and it has been well worth the cost.

[Chris Kennedy]

I have the LV 38" aluminum. I went with aluminum to save a little bit of money, and it is pretty solid. I cannot imagine warping it or bending it with something less of catastrophic. All the same, if I could have afforded the steel, I would have gone for it.

Chris

[Frank Warta]

Is there anyone besides Lee Valley making a comparable part at a better price? I'm starting to lean towards the 36" or 38" part, but like most people I'm always looking for a deal.

[Rob Wright]

Looks to be a good price.

The woodpecker 36" one is $60 http://www.woodpeck.com/serx36.html

[Bill Huber]

I was looking for a deal when I got mine but never found one.

I got the 36" LV steel, I wanted the steel because its more stable when you put it on the saw or router table and slide a feeler gauge under it.

[Brian Kent]

38" LV Aluminum has been extremely accurate. I hang it on a safe place on the wall so it will not chance getting dinged.

[Glen Butler]

I use a 72" empire level. A precision straight edge really isn't necessary, but if you got the money . . . The level gets me darn near close enough and likely just as close as anything else. From there I use the wood coming off the machine to tell me what if anything to adjust.

[Van Huskey]

I would prefer steel but if you don't wanna spend LV steel money then the Woodpecker aluminum is fine. For me dinging the Al version is just too easy even when I am actually using it. Cast iron is a lot harder and has lots of edges that low to eat aluminum. With something like a straight edge I truely expect to only spend the money onces.

[Bob Carreiro]

Double the use of your new tool and buy a level instead. Mine is a simple 48" one that cost less than 40 bucks.

[Rob Fisher]

http://www.dilegnosupply.com/Marking-Measuring/rules_and_straight_edges_steel_straight_edges.htm

These are the cheapest steel straightedges that I have found.

Rob

[Steve knight]

come on now a starett steel straight edge is the way to go. talk about an expensive piece of steel. 7 years ago it was 150.00

[Howard Acheson]

For more than 20 years, I have been using a 48 inch Stanley aluminum level. It's an I-bar type construction therefor very rigid and strong. It's more than straight enough and usable for other purposes. Last thing I need in my shop is a long piece of infrequently used metal.

[glenn bradley]

The Woodpecker is flat to within .001" per foot. The LV is 0.0015" over the entire length so, choose the accuracy you want.

P.s. You'll probably only buy 1, a few bucks averaged over my lifetime didn't seem worth the trouble to me.

[Sean Nagle]

I use a 24" steel variety I bought from Woodcraft quite a few years ago. The one they sell now is a slightly different. I've found it works well for the majority of setups I need to do. However, if I were to buy again, it would be a 36" (38") model. For longer lengths I use my 48" Stabila level. I think a 48" straight edge can actually be too long for some setups.

[Myk Rian]

As suggested, get a good level. I have one of these Stanley Fat Max 24", and a 4 footer.
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=XTREME&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=43-625&SDesc=24%26%2334%3B+FatMax%26%23174%3B+Xtreme%26%2 38482%3B+Magnetic+Box+Beam+Level

[tyler mckenzie]

+1 lee valley steel 36". I couldn't imagine running a my shop without it.

[scott allen]

I've never checked this myself, but I have heard that many levels are intentionally built slightly with a slight concave edge - this is so when you place the level on the surface it reads primarily off the ends, so you get the best reading for the full length of the level.

Just something to keep in mind - I'd verify the straightness of a level before using it as a reference surface.

Scott

[Glen Butler]

I've never checked this myself, but I have heard that many levels are intentionally built slightly with a slight concave edge - this is so when you place the level on the surface it reads primarily off the ends, so you get the best reading for the full length of the level.

Just something to keep in mind - I'd verify the straightness of a level before using it as a reference surface.

Scott

This is not true. Most levels are intended to be used with either side against the work. I have never seen one that wasn't reversible.

It is pretty easy to verify. Take two of the level you want to purchase and put them edge to egde; hold them to the light. No light passes through and your good to go. Do you really need anything straighter than that for woodoworking? Especially when you can see how to adjust the machine with the wood that comes off it. Get a dual purpose tool and buy a level, unless of course you need the status symbol of an overpriced hunk of steel to feed your ego.:D Then buy all means feed it; that is important too.

[Mark Woodmark]

http://www.mansontool.com/cart/shopexd.asp?id=526

[scott allen]

This is not true. Most levels are intended to be used with either side against the work. I have never seen one that wasn't reversible.


Thanks for your input, Glen - as I stated, I said this was something I had heard but not verified. I also did not suggest that levels were not reversible - I said I had heard that some were designed to have concave edges, which would have nothing to do with being able to use either side. I think your suggestion to check two of the same level against each other to check straightness is a good one. I also agree with you that paying outrageous $$ for a straightedge with .001"/ft accuracy is overkill - that's why I use my old drafting tools from college for my machine setups.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I think we're kind of both on the same page here...

Scott

[Dan Friedrichs]

I hate to say this...but I bought the long LV one, and the $9 4' alumium level I've dropped off several ladders is as straight as I can measure with it.

The LV is nice, but if I were to do it over again, I'd just go to the hardware store and find a level I liked, then just to be extra sure it was straight, hold it up against another level and try to see light between them. You can see light through 0.0001" (one ten-thousanth).

[Glen Butler]

Thanks for your input, Glen - as I stated, I said this was something I had heard but not verified. I also did not suggest that levels were not reversible - I said I had heard that some were designed to have concave edges, which would have nothing to do with being able to use either side. I think your suggestion to check two of the same level against each other to check straightness is a good one. I also agree with you that paying outrageous $$ for a straightedge with .001"/ft accuracy is overkill - that's why I use my old drafting tools from college for my machine setups.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that I think we're kind of both on the same page here...

Scott
I get the feeling I may have offended and I am sorry. I was imagining having something bowed; I didn't think about them being hour glass shaped. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Some reasons I can see for them not making the surface concave is that you wouldn't be accurate if the level is longer than the object you are plumbing/leveling, and if you are scribing a straight line say for shelf installation you shelf will end up curved, be it ever so slight.

[Myk Rian]

A master level will have a bow to it.

I spent a week touring the Starrett plant in Athol, Ma. When we were at the bench where they build the master levels, after flattening the base, he took the level and whacked it a mighty smack on the edge of the work bench. That was to put a slight bend in it, as Scott noted. This is only done to master levels.

The long levels used every day by craftsmen and carpenters are built to be straight, and flat.

[scott allen]

I get the feeling I may have offended and I am sorry.

No offense was taken, Glen. I think your post was a valuable one as it mentioned checking two levels against each other to verify straightness - this is something I will definitely do the next time I'm in the market for a cheap straightedge. I think I will also do the same with my current 4' level - I'll check it against a drafting straightedge that I know is dead on - if the level is straight, I'll start using it for machine setups since it can stand up on its own.

Like you, I don't see the expense of the Lee Valley straightedges as adding any significant value to the setup of woodworking tools. That said, if I win the lottery, I'll certainly put one on my shopping list, but for now I'd rather spend my extra $$ on some wood.

In any case, I think this has been a good thread because it has helped stress the importance of verifying the accuracy of any device that is planned to be used as a straightedge.

Scott

[John Downey]

You know, I've never had a need for one. Jointer is easily done by how straight the cut is, and I just never had trouble doing it by trial and error.

I set my planer using a surface gauge and dial indicator, then a regular 12" rule and feeler gauges for the bed rollers.

Table saw I've just never worried about. I have no reason to suspect a problem so I've never looked for one. I'd use a 4' level or a newly straightened piece of wood if I did.

Speaking of levels, I suspect the concave rumor comes from sometimes the bubble vials are slightly convex, since most carpentry applications do not need the kind of precision that a machinists level has. Some I've seen have a slight curve to the vial instead, so that it can only be used in 1 orientation.

[Alan Lilly]

Lee Valley 38" here.

[Mike Goetzke]

Lee Valley 38" here.

Same here. I like it because it has a wide enough base that it can stand on it's own.

[Mike Cruz]

Anyone have any thoughts/experience with the Grizzly 36" straight edge? Supposedly accurate to .001 like the others...

No need for snippy "supposedly" comments...;)

[Jeff Bartley]

What about jointing two lengths of wood and sighting between the jointed faces to check for light. No light = straight; right? Probably not the best long term as the wood could move but for the short term it's a free straight edge!

[Lee Schierer]

A master level will have a bow to it.

I spent a week touring the Starrett plant in Athol, Ma. When we were at the bench where they build the master levels, after flattening the base, he took the level and whacked it a mighty smack on the edge of the work bench. That was to put a slight bend in it, as Scott noted. This is only done to master levels.

The long levels used every day by craftsmen and carpenters are built to be straight, and flat.

I used a 4' aluminum carpenters level to align my jointer. I checked it when I purchased it against all the others on the rack looking for daylight between the edges when two were held against each other. Unless they were all perfectly bowed the same amount on both sides they are as true as you can get. They were considerably less than $80, for a tool that only gets used a few times and the level has other uses.

[James Williams 007]

I love my LV 38 Aluminum. I keep it in the shipping tube it came in on a shelf and use it all the time!

[Rod Sheridan]

Anyone have any thoughts/experience with the Grizzly 36" straight edge? Supposedly accurate to .001 like the others...

No need for snippy "supposedly" comments...;)

Hi Mike, I looked at that one however I couldn't find out if it was 0.001"/inch or 0.001" overall???

Regards, Rod.

[paul cottingham]

+1 24" Steel Lee Valley.

[Frank Martin]

I have the Veritas 24" steel one and the larger ~50" aluminum one. Both are excellent as usual with Veritas. I have setup my 12" J/P combo using these and a dial indicator and the result was great. Highly recommended, as most things from LV / Veritas...

[Van Huskey]

Hi Mike, I looked at that one however I couldn't find out if it was 0.001"/inch or 0.001" overall???

Regards, Rod.

I always figure if they don't say overall they mean per inch. I might be selling a particular item short but in terms of a straight edge it is a distinction I would expect a manufacturer/seller to point out IF they can. I have passed on a number of straight edges just based on this fact and haven't bothered making the query to the seller since there are straight edges from solid companies that are very clear.

There are a lot of woodworkers that tend to eshew quality setup tools since it is not metal "only" wood, but man I need every bit of help I can get so my squares need to be square and my edges need to be straight. I have my one "golden"machinist square check by a machinist friend of mine and "David Certified" as square. This one lives in a case and ONLY comes out to check other squares, it might be overkill but I don't lose sleep over my squares.

[Stew Hagerty]

Personally, I have a 48" Empire e70 Level that I use for accuracy. I like multi-taskers. I also have a drywall T-Square that is my standard "go to" for a straight edge. With regard to my frugal Scottish blood, I realize that neither of these is probably as accurate as a dedicated straight edge, but they have served me well and like I said they're multi-taskers. Here is some info about my Empire Level:

"True Blue vials are accurate to within 0.00005in. per inch in all 10 level and plumb working positions. Solid block acrylic vials won't break, leak or fog. Heavy-duty aircraft aluminum chassis with 300deg view top-reading level vial and milled edges for accuracy. Rubber hand grips and rubber endcaps for shock resistance. Limited lifetime warranty. U.S.A."

If they are accurate to that degree as a level, I figure it must also be pretty fair as a straight edge. The aircraft aluminum construction is rugged and definately not prone to warping.

[Bruce Page]

I have the 50" LV aluminum. I like that it will stand up easily where most steel straightedges won't without some help.

[Bill Huber]

I have the 50" LV aluminum. I like that it will stand up easily where most steel straightedges won't without some help.

That is funny, I like the steel because it will stand up when the aluminum ones won't. I can put a feeler gauge under a steel and it will not move around.

I don't use the light under the straight edge like most people do. Like on the table saw, I put the same thickness feeler gauge under each end and then use the same thickness to check for flatness, it just the way I do it.

[Larry Frank]

I recently purchased the LV 38" aluminum to use setting up my 15" planer. I could not be happier with it and like someone else mentioned, the card board shipping tube is great for storage.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Best bang?

Festool TS55EQ.

For ~ $500.00 you get a real good 55" track w/a laser beam straight edge.

You also get a pretty decent saw thrown in ;).